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Pulling UIM for Injectors - Other "While You're In There" Tasks?

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Old 10-02-16, 07:19 AM
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Pulling UIM for Injectors - Other "While You're In There" Tasks?

I'm going to be pulling my UIM soon to remove my fuel injectors and send them out for cleaning. While it's apart I'm also thinking of doing the fuel pulsation damper because I'm not sure if/when it was last done. What other stuff should I consider doing while the manifold is off? My FD is a 1993 with about 112k, only 7k on a factory reman with new hoses, vac lines, etc. Stock twins with no plans to change.
Old 10-02-16, 07:33 AM
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Given the recent rebuild and new hoses, etc...the FPD is what I'd replace, too. Maybe give the electrical harnesses a careful inspection...
Old 10-03-16, 11:57 AM
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Thanks, appreciate the response!
Old 10-03-16, 02:14 PM
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I'd change the stock IAT to fast acting IAT.
Old 10-03-16, 07:27 PM
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I was under the impression that the fast acting IAT was really only useful with a Power FC or other aftermarket ECU. Not true?
Old 10-04-16, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy
I was under the impression that the fast acting IAT was really only useful with a Power FC or other aftermarket ECU. Not true?
Should work with the stock ECU unless the poll rate of the ecu on the sensor is lower than the response time of the sensor which in a MAP system I really doubt

I guess there might be calibration issues though

Last edited by Marf; 10-04-16 at 06:28 AM.
Old 10-04-16, 03:44 AM
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The triumph one is very similar to oem calibration so will work with stock ecu
Old 10-05-16, 10:08 AM
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*Inspect/replace coil harness.
*inspect/replace injector pigtails.
*consider replacing stock fan thermoswitch with a S5 FC switch (you'll also have to pull the alternator but not a big deal).
*Relocate and install fast reacting IAT sensor. You can use the old sensor as a plug.

Last edited by Sgtblue; 10-05-16 at 10:15 AM.
Old 10-19-16, 04:07 AM
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Emissions block off and removal of your county allows.
Old 10-21-16, 08:10 AM
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Are the OMP hoses dark yellow or orange? Then they will probably snap at the slightest touch. Buy some Teflon hoses and crimp fittings in advance of working under the UIM...
Old 10-21-16, 09:45 AM
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Is there still a guide on removing the UIM somewhere? It looks like the old one posted by Dale Clark is gone.
Old 10-21-16, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RapidCancel
Is there still a guide on removing the UIM somewhere? It looks like the old one posted by Dale Clark is gone.
There's a couple of pretty good tutorials on youtube
Old 10-22-16, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RapidCancel
Is there still a guide on removing the UIM somewhere? It looks like the old one posted by Dale Clark is gone.
It's not so hard that you'd need a guide to do it.
Old 10-23-16, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey13b
There's a couple of pretty good tutorials on youtube
Thanks, I'll take a look.

Originally Posted by Valkyrie
It's not so hard that you'd need a guide to do it.
Seems straightforward enough, but I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something and mess it up.
Old 10-23-16, 08:11 PM
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Replace all the check valves with Dale's Viton check valves.

Replace the stock UIM IAT sensor with the fast acting IAT- I did this on my stock ECU car and there was a noticeable smoothness.

Clean the inside of the UIM out with degreaser or similar- now is a good time.

Install a catch can/updated PCV system.
Old 10-25-16, 01:56 PM
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Hmm. Maybe more advanced than what you are looking for, but. . .get hold of one of the aftermarket solenoid racks and relocate the more reliable solenoids to the passenger side where they will be easy to access in the future and will be exposed to far less heat.
Old 10-30-16, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by darksereniti
I'd change the stock IAT to fast acting IAT.

I would also relocate this to the intake elbow before throttle body. Current location is know n to suffer from
heatsoak and give false readings.
Old 11-05-16, 05:38 PM
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Sounds like you have spark blowout.... google it
Old 11-05-16, 06:16 PM
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Huh?
Old 11-11-16, 11:33 PM
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Everybody has mentioned everything I would have.

1. OMP lines (become brittle from heat)
2. check that the check valves are working
3. replace all vacuum hoses with silicone hoses
4. electrically check that the solenoids are working
5. check all your wiring and connectors
6. check your ignition wiring harness
Old 12-28-16, 08:38 PM
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Thanks all for the feedback, FINALLY getting ready to do this after a few months of other projects. I sent an email to Dale about Viton check valves, will order some silicone vacuum line, have a new FPD on order, and will send the injectors out when the UIM is off. Where can I look at the aftermarket solenoids/rack and aftermarket fast-acting IAT that will work with my stock ECU?
Old 12-29-16, 07:59 AM
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IMHO the aftermarket solenoids aren't worth it. Stock solenoids aren't that much of a problem, they're plentiful used (you can get ones from an FC as well), and the biggest problem is usually just breaking a nipple off. The aftermarket solenoids I've seen just look like a big wad and I don't think they really make anything better.

On the IAT sensor, Google around, I think Banzai Racing or someone was selling them. Haven't shopped for one in years.

Dale
Old 12-29-16, 08:12 AM
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Fast Reacting Sensors - Wannaspeed
Old 04-02-17, 02:35 PM
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So I maybe got a little carried away.....

The to do list so far is clean and flow check injectors, all new vac lines, check solenoids, new battery tray, new coolant hoses, new belts, clean intercooler, FD thermoswitch, new temperature sensors, fast acting IAT, Dale's viton check valves, new FPD, check the OMP and lines, check the cooling fans (suspect one is dead), flush the coolant, replace the battery tray, and clean the crap out of everything. While I'm in this deep, what else should I be checking or replacing?
Old 04-02-17, 03:55 PM
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it's a slippery slippery slope my friend. I just went through it not long ago lol

just do your list. finish the list. don't add anything new till your done


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