Leave the trans in unless it needs rebuilt. No reason whatsoever to remove it.

 

This is like asking should the paper roll off the front or off the rear of the toilet paper roll.

 

No, it's like telling your what the best way to fix you is when he's already told you what the best way is.

-J

 

I'm in the middle of an engine pull, and I've been reviewing the Turrentine video, and in it he leaves the engine in. But following his steps, it appears that he first advises to remove the bell housing bolts and THEN support the tranny with a jack. If one does that though, what is keeping the tranny suspended when the bolts are removed and before the jack is situated? I just want to make 100% sure before I attempt to go that route.

 

The transmission input shaft into the engine e-shaft.

 

Thanks so does it sound reasonable to follow the steps of removing the bell housing bolts before placing the jack underneath the tranny? I ask because I will lose much of my wiggle room if I put the jack underneath the car before removing the bolts, but I don't feel like wearing a transmission either.

I'm planning on getting after market motor mounts by the way, and I'm using your guideline as one of my decision points between pulling the engine only or both.

 

I personally would support the transmission before removing all the bolts.

 

+1 for engine in and support under tranny. Yes I have done it enough times and taking the tranny out is a waste of time for anyone trying this.

 

Well I think I've come to my next issue

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...13#post9632761

I've got the exact same setup (ACT Clutch/Racing Beat plate and was wondering why the bolts weren't coming out). Think I'll be pulling both out now

 

There is no reason to take the pressure plate off to pull the motor. Just release the throw out bearing from the pressure plate through the hole in the bottom of the tranny. Be patient as the first time it can seem more difficult than it is.

 

Leave the trans in, when you reinstall drop the subframe an inch or so to give yourself proper clearance to drop the motor mounts in. It may add a little bit of time because you certainly can shoehorn the engine mount studs in however it makes life a whole tone easier.

 

Great...I'll keep going the engine only route for now. To Mahjik's point above, I think I'll remove the top two bell housing bolts and then set up the jack to get the other three. But first things first lemme see if I can get that throw out bearing released. Thanks!

 

No need to drop the sub frame. Leave the rubber motor mounts off and line it up to the tranny and bolt it up. After bolting it up lift it slightly and install the rubber mounts. You should be able to get it from there.

 

After doing many FD engine swaps I can say that I still find it easier to drop the subframe slightly. If the car is on stands already it should take you 15 minutes and save you from having to bend/pry the motor mounts.

 

Did I do it? If so, do I still need to pump the clutch pedal in order to get the pressure plate off of the flywheel?

 

The pressure plate comes off the flywheel when the engine is on the stand. You will need the clutch alignment tool when you put the clutch and PP back on. The input shaft will now slip out as you pull the motor. It will not do it w/o your help though. Pat yourself on the back you got it released.

 

Sweet!

This was easy compared 1.5 days I spent trying to get off the F$%#ing stripped nut on top of my starter Of course everything on the FD is graded on a curve.

Alright, I am on to removing the bell housing and yanking the engine. Thanks all (including Wargasm whose thread I hijacked while also using his famous video Although I do hope that this can be useful to some other noob such as myself)

 

I happen to have the Mazda SST, but you can use something like a piece of wood to support the transmission on the crossmember......

 

Yeah I was thinking about doing that anyway. Seems like it would help line up at least the vertical positioning during re-installation. Thanks.

 

Hey, I have the same SST, I thought it was discontinued. Yours looks like it's in good condition, mines a little bit beat up.

 

I tried to get one but they ARE discontinued, so I custom fabricated my own:



As you can see, mine already got a little messed up by engine coolant.

...and yes I do have a jack down there in this picture, but my SST made that a temporary thing.

 

Excellent job. I smell group-buy.

 

OOOH! I want in on this group buy! lemme run out to my garage and grab a chunk of 2x4 to run over to you Jim.

actually Jim, when's the next time you're coming down?

 

I did the engine/trans thing a few times and it really is easier to leave the trans in. You don't have to remove the shifter, the wiring, or realign the drive shaft/engine mounts at the same time. It's easier to get the engine out the engine bay than the engine/trans combo also. I find it easier to remove the dp, throwout bearing lock, and bellhousing bolts.

I've removed more than 3-4 also.

 

Yeah I sat on the fence with this for a bit and re-read this thread a ton, and came to the conclusion for the reasons you mentioned...we'll see what I think in a few weeks. Although I pulled the engine myself, I'm hoping to have someone help me with at least getting the engine lined back up with the transmission.