Guys, do you think it's easier to pull just the engine or to pull the engine + the trans as a unit.


***** KEY QUESTION - Do you need a load leveling device on the engine hoist chain if you do both at one time for clearing things or not? I do not have a load leveler.


I've done a rebuild on an FC about 3 times (engine only each time) and done an FD rebuild once (engine only). But I was thinking of pulling the eng+trans on this one since I suspect a possible leaking rear trans seal and that may be a good way to kill two birds with one stone. Then again, replacing a rear seal can probably be done with the trans in the car later, right?

Thanks,
B

 

I think it's a lot easier to pull/install the motor+tranny with a load leveler. But if you have no problems pulling just the motor then go with what works.

 

I'd leave the trans in. No need to mess with the midpipe/main cat, powerplant frame, and the trans itself unless you need to.

 

My opinion: If the motor is going back in with OEM engine mounts, pull the tranny. If the motor is going back in with aftermarket mounts, leave the tranny. For me, it's easier to get things line up outside the car with the stock mounts.

 

I've done both, if you don't need to take the tranny out, not point in doing so.

If it really is leaking then its not a bad idea to take it out and fix it, although the rear seal can be replaced without pulling it.

 

I'm in the engine-only camp. Once you've done it that way a couple times it goes much faster and easier.

But you really MUST have a load-leveler.

 

We never remove the trans with an engine build.

 

You can replace the rear main seal/rear stationary gear O-ring with the engine in the car,but obviously you have to pull the transmission.If you check the Mazda Service bulletins,there is one which describes the procedure for this.

 

OOPs sorry--it's early in the morning!yes rear seal on TRANSMISSION can be replaced with transmission in the car.

 

---> http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...e&kw=WLMW41030

 

pull the tranny. it will be much easier to inspect and deal with the clutch etc. I've never done it without a load leveler though.

 

I pulled the engine only. Seeing that I have my Dad to help guide the engine back in to mate with the transmission will really help in that part. I think those who pull the engine and transmission together are doing it by themselves and it's a lot easier to mate them back together outside the car as a single person. If you have two people, I'd leave the transmission in the car.

 

Just pulled my engine/tranny together a few weeks ago. I didn't need or use a load lever.

Just used a tow strap looped through the hook of the hoist & back to each connecting point on the engine. Worked like a charm....

 

I'd be curious to know the number of the folks here, giving advice, who have R&R'd an S6 engine more than 3-4 times? Because if you do it for a living, then I promise you there is only one answer: Engine out, engine in... Only. It isn't as hard to align the input-shaft and engine mounts when you've done it as many times as I have. You learn little tricks.

If you are at your house doing this in your garage I would try to aviod pulling the trans too because it will be a lot more complicated on jack stans with the the car up in the air.


-J

 

I think the whole point of this thread is the OP doesn't do this for a living...And I doubt he evens wants to pull his motor enough times to know all the tips and tricks.

And no It's not complicated at all to R&R the motor+trans in a standard garage with the car in the air.

I'm no pro and I'm sure I haven't R&Rd my motor 1/2 as much as you but I have done it both ways and for me (average mechanic) it was not easier pulling the motor alone.

 

Engine only

 

 

I just pulled the motor only a few months ago when I pulled it I did this by myself with no load leveler. I also installed the motor and mated it to the tranny by myself with no load leveler. In looking back it was not really that hard (maybe I got lucky on the install though).

It depends on how much room you have in your garage if you will need a load leveler. If you have a lot of space in front of where the car is sitting you may be able to get away without one like XLR8, but if you are like me and only have a regular 2 car garage with no real room in front, I would HAVE to have a load leveler. They are really pretty cheap, you can pick one up from harbor freight for around $40.. BUT I still vote for just leaving the tranny in the car...

 

...And that's fine, if it works for you. But it isn't "easier", it's actually more work.


-J

 

Well, your experience/input has been noted, but to say it is easier to pull both engine and tran together is FALSE.

-J

 

Sometimes easier doesn't necessarily equal "less work". I'll remove things "in the way" to get a job done if it will make the job "easier". It may be "more work" to remove these things but it makes the job "easier" for me.

 

Ok... for you

-J

 

To say that pulling them together was easier for ME is TRUE. Your assumptions and blancket statements have also been noted.

 

^About that many. Once with the transmission, the rest without. Disconnecting the clutch isn't hard. And a couple of long extensions and a flex and the bell-housing bolts are out in 10 minutes or less. The hardest part for me is aligning the motor to the input shaft going back in. But that gets easier with practice too, and it's never been harder than when I've re-installed the transmission by itself. It's also where you need the load-leveler and a second person. A friend who's pulled many more than I have got it down pretty well.
Like synthetic vs. mineral, no real 'right" answer. Personal taste.

 

You've had three shop owners tell you that they leave the trans in the car when pulling the engine..... just wanted to make note of that. Do what you want guys, it makes no difference to me