Public Service Bulletin
08-01-02, 05:52 PM
#1
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Public Service Bulletin
Well, I have seen alot of threads about coolant issues in the past few days. Please people make sure your cooling system is up to par. Please check the following:
1.) Makes sure you do not have any old beat up hoses on the system.
2.)If you have yet to change or flush the coolant do so or have someone that KNOWS these cars to do so.
3.)REPLACE that damn AST already if you have not yet done so.
4.)If you are in a high HEAT climate please run a LOW mix of coolant to water ratio : 30% coolant 70% water and water wetter or run EVANS coolant.
5.) Bleed the system again just to make sure you have no air pockets. (use the hose(if you have it) going to the back of the throttle body then the ast then the filler cap)
6.) Check it every week to make sure the coolant is at the top of the filler caps or very close.
7.)Make sure that if the coolant light comes on you shut the car off!!!!!!!!!!!
8.)Make sure it is not leaking from that sensor aswell(coolant Probe)
This has been a service provided by Dont Be A Rikki & PFS for all my Forum freinds
-Thank You
-Your freind Rikki
1.) Makes sure you do not have any old beat up hoses on the system.
2.)If you have yet to change or flush the coolant do so or have someone that KNOWS these cars to do so.
3.)REPLACE that damn AST already if you have not yet done so.
4.)If you are in a high HEAT climate please run a LOW mix of coolant to water ratio : 30% coolant 70% water and water wetter or run EVANS coolant.
5.) Bleed the system again just to make sure you have no air pockets. (use the hose(if you have it) going to the back of the throttle body then the ast then the filler cap)
6.) Check it every week to make sure the coolant is at the top of the filler caps or very close.
7.)Make sure that if the coolant light comes on you shut the car off!!!!!!!!!!!
8.)Make sure it is not leaking from that sensor aswell(coolant Probe)
This has been a service provided by Dont Be A Rikki & PFS for all my Forum freinds
-Thank You
-Your freind Rikki
08-01-02, 06:10 PM
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Jun 2002
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I hope I am not intruding....but my 2 cents to add would be
1) upper radiator hose. Remove the Airbox and inspect. if you see buldges around where it attaches to the radiator, replace it.
2) Coolant overflow container. These go bad alot, they get small cracks that expand when hot and leaks coolant, when cool does not leak. The symptoms are...You park and about 1 to 2 mintues later it drains a big puddle under the car. You fill it up and it its not leaking anymore. next time you drive and park it leaks again.
1) upper radiator hose. Remove the Airbox and inspect. if you see buldges around where it attaches to the radiator, replace it.
2) Coolant overflow container. These go bad alot, they get small cracks that expand when hot and leaks coolant, when cool does not leak. The symptoms are...You park and about 1 to 2 mintues later it drains a big puddle under the car. You fill it up and it its not leaking anymore. next time you drive and park it leaks again.
08-02-02, 05:17 AM
#8
1JZ powered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
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...AND get an aftermarket radiator already!
On a side note...I watched my water temps closely today...and was surprised at lunch time to see my PFC water temp was at 79 Celsius! I have my fans turning on at 80 Celsius so
Then I realized that my A/C was on...and I don't have A/C...
On a side note...I watched my water temps closely today...and was surprised at lunch time to see my PFC water temp was at 79 Celsius! I have my fans turning on at 80 Celsius so
Then I realized that my A/C was on...and I don't have A/C...
08-02-02, 09:57 AM
#10
A public service from non-partisan supporter of PFS:
9) replace both turbo coolant lines, which require removal of airpump;
10) replace heater hose in front of the engine engine; heater hoses into and out of firewall on both passenger and driver's side;
11) replace hose under the TB;
12) alternative method of burping system: make sure car is cold; jack car up in the front, stick a large mouth funnel in the fill hole, pour in coolant so that it goes up the mouth of the funnel; start engine, wear gloves and watch air bleed up through the funnel as engine comes up to temp. Shut off and replace cap.
9) replace both turbo coolant lines, which require removal of airpump;
10) replace heater hose in front of the engine engine; heater hoses into and out of firewall on both passenger and driver's side;
11) replace hose under the TB;
12) alternative method of burping system: make sure car is cold; jack car up in the front, stick a large mouth funnel in the fill hole, pour in coolant so that it goes up the mouth of the funnel; start engine, wear gloves and watch air bleed up through the funnel as engine comes up to temp. Shut off and replace cap.
08-02-02, 01:42 PM
#14
Yeah out of all these tips, only one guy got one of the most important parts that is failure prone.
Check/change your T-stat. The stock temp gauge sucks so bad that your engine can be mildly overheated and the guage still reads normal.
I've seen several FDs with t-stats that only open partially. This allows enough coolant through to keep the engine at normal temps while cruising but will lead to overheating in traffic and spirited driving.
I've had enough FDs to see this happen more than once.
Jeff
Check/change your T-stat. The stock temp gauge sucks so bad that your engine can be mildly overheated and the guage still reads normal.
I've seen several FDs with t-stats that only open partially. This allows enough coolant through to keep the engine at normal temps while cruising but will lead to overheating in traffic and spirited driving.
I've had enough FDs to see this happen more than once.
Jeff
08-02-02, 07:08 PM
#16
Has anyone ever run their FD without a Thermostat?
I know what the response will be, but I have heard of people in piston engines doing this to help with cooling problems.
I know what the response will be, but I have heard of people in piston engines doing this to help with cooling problems.
06-21-03, 03:54 AM
#17
First and for most. Thanks Rikki, Excellent thread! I think my problem is thermostat and those lines mentined here
10) replace heater hose in front of the engine engine; heater hoses into and out of firewall on both passenger and driver's side;
[/B][/QUOTE]Can someone post pictures or give more details to track these hoses.
11) replace hose under the TB;????? which are these? whats tB?
10) replace heater hose in front of the engine engine; heater hoses into and out of firewall on both passenger and driver's side;
[/B][/QUOTE]Can someone post pictures or give more details to track these hoses.
11) replace hose under the TB;????? which are these? whats tB?
Last edited by SaulV; 06-21-03 at 03:58 AM.
06-21-03, 08:17 AM
#18
Blow up or win
Originally posted by ZeroBanger
I hope I am not intruding....but my 2 cents to add would be
1) upper radiator hose. Remove the Airbox and inspect. if you see buldges around where it attaches to the radiator, replace it.
2) Coolant overflow container. These go bad alot, they get small cracks that expand when hot and leaks coolant, when cool does not leak. The symptoms are...You park and about 1 to 2 mintues later it drains a big puddle under the car. You fill it up and it its not leaking anymore. next time you drive and park it leaks again.
I hope I am not intruding....but my 2 cents to add would be
1) upper radiator hose. Remove the Airbox and inspect. if you see buldges around where it attaches to the radiator, replace it.
2) Coolant overflow container. These go bad alot, they get small cracks that expand when hot and leaks coolant, when cool does not leak. The symptoms are...You park and about 1 to 2 mintues later it drains a big puddle under the car. You fill it up and it its not leaking anymore. next time you drive and park it leaks again.
1) Squeeze the hose near the clamps or
connectors when the engine is cool.
2) Use fingers and thumb to check for weakness, not the whole hand.
3) Squeeze near the connectors. The interior hose "rot" occurs within two inches of the ends of the hose -- not in the middle.
4) Check for any difference in the feel between the middle and ends of the hose. "Gaps," or "channels," can be felt along the length of the hose where it has been weakened.
5) If the ends are soft and feel mushy, chances are, the hose is toast. Replace that sonamabeach immediately
or you'll be walkin' home.
This procedure has been brought to you as a NON-PROFIT (sorry Ricki, I just could not resist...) public service message by a guy who likes to help his fellow rotary lunatics do it right the first time.
06-21-03, 08:52 AM
#19
Originally posted by muzik3k
replace hose under the TB;????? which are these? whats tB?[/COLOR]
replace hose under the TB;????? which are these? whats tB?[/COLOR]
Its the coolant line from the pump to the TB.. apprently it supposed to cool or warm the TB... Completely useless if you live in non extreme weather condition area... Like AL.. My line used to leak and didnt know where it was coming from.. SPOautos looked at and told me about it.. simple fix..
06-21-03, 09:06 AM
#20
Blow up or win
Originally posted by Rx7pimpin
Has anyone ever run their FD without a Thermostat?
I know what the response will be, but I have heard of people in piston engines doing this to help with cooling problems.
Has anyone ever run their FD without a Thermostat?
I know what the response will be, but I have heard of people in piston engines doing this to help with cooling problems.
Sure, it will help with cooling problems, but you still have not figured out what the problem is.
It's shade tree mechanic philosophy at it's finest.
When starting, you want your engine (and especially your oil) to reach operating temperature as quickly as possible to minimize wear and maximize performance, and that's exactly what a thermostat does.
Without a thermostat it would probably take your engine 20 minutes to warm up instead of just a couple.
That's alot of metal grinding away.......
06-21-03, 10:35 AM
#21
10) replace heater hose in front of the engine engine; heater hoses into and out of firewall on both passenger and driver's side;
[/B][/QUOTE]WHICH HOSES ARE THESE?? HOW CAN I FIND THEM, PICTURES PLEASE??
11) replace hose under the TB;????? which are these? whats tB?
[/B][/QUOTE]WHICH HOSES ARE THESE?? HOW CAN I FIND THEM, PICTURES PLEASE??
11) replace hose under the TB;????? which are these? whats tB?
06-21-03, 10:59 AM
#22
WTB** Very Low Miles 94-95
Join Date: Jul 2001
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remove the black foam rubber lining from the rear of the engine bay...im talking about the strip near the windshield wipers...it unclips easily....relocate your ast toward the front and do as much as you can to create breathing room in there...run an aftermarket radiator, airbox, intercooler and DOWNPIPE...
if you got the cash....get the power fc and datalogit...simply reset when all your fans come on so they come on earlier and stronger...my temps are down five degrees celcius from that alone.
get a water temp guage...that stock guage is ***! if your car goes over 100c...pull over and let her cool down....keep an eye on your temps like you would your speedo if a cop was around.
the main reason people lose their motors to o ring or side seal failure is because they do not monitor their water temps. I check my temps every single time Im in the car and check them often. been there done that.
good luck
j
if you got the cash....get the power fc and datalogit...simply reset when all your fans come on so they come on earlier and stronger...my temps are down five degrees celcius from that alone.
get a water temp guage...that stock guage is ***! if your car goes over 100c...pull over and let her cool down....keep an eye on your temps like you would your speedo if a cop was around.
the main reason people lose their motors to o ring or side seal failure is because they do not monitor their water temps. I check my temps every single time Im in the car and check them often. been there done that.
good luck
j
06-21-03, 11:24 AM
#23
Weird Cat Man
Originally posted by turbojeff
Yeah out of all these tips, only one guy got one of the most important parts that is failure prone.
Check/change your T-stat. The stock temp gauge sucks so bad that your engine can be mildly overheated and the guage still reads normal.
I've seen several FDs with t-stats that only open partially. This allows enough coolant through to keep the engine at normal temps while cruising but will lead to overheating in traffic and spirited driving.
I've had enough FDs to see this happen more than once.
Jeff
Yeah out of all these tips, only one guy got one of the most important parts that is failure prone.
Check/change your T-stat. The stock temp gauge sucks so bad that your engine can be mildly overheated and the guage still reads normal.
I've seen several FDs with t-stats that only open partially. This allows enough coolant through to keep the engine at normal temps while cruising but will lead to overheating in traffic and spirited driving.
I've had enough FDs to see this happen more than once.
Jeff
It only takes 15 minutes and it will help make sure your brand new TStat isn't a motor-killing dud.
Brian
06-21-03, 11:58 AM
#24
Glug Glug Glug Burp
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Originally posted by Wargasm
Whenever I have the thermostat out or even if I have a NEW ONE, I heat it up slowly in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it to see exactly when it opens up and how much it opens up to make sure it looks like it's working.
It only takes 15 minutes and it will help make sure your brand new TStat isn't a motor-killing dud.
Brian
Whenever I have the thermostat out or even if I have a NEW ONE, I heat it up slowly in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it to see exactly when it opens up and how much it opens up to make sure it looks like it's working.
It only takes 15 minutes and it will help make sure your brand new TStat isn't a motor-killing dud.
Brian
VERY good advice.
06-21-03, 02:03 PM
#25
I Sold My Car 2 the Devil
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On the thermostat... should I get a pettit one or a mazda stock one and drill a hole in it? I was dumb and replaced mine with an autozone one and found later that people have tested the so called 180deg thermostat and it didn't open till 200deg F ... suggestions? I'm going to probably remix my coolant and and some water wetter... (I live in hell aka Texas)
What do you people think about the TB coolant Bypass? I was thinking about doing it but wasn't sure if it would make a difference.
TIA,
Ryker
What do you people think about the TB coolant Bypass? I was thinking about doing it but wasn't sure if it would make a difference.
TIA,
Ryker