Fair enough, the front stack is a pain in the *** as I can attest first hand. It's easy to make a mistake. I don't have any data to back it up, but if it's spraying cold 20C oil on to cold rotors, that is not helping heat transfer throughout the engine.

The next step though should be the higher temperature oil cooler thermostat, I think there is consensus in this thread on that point. Besides maybe raising cooling fan activation temperatures a bit.

 

Not to sound like a crude mangineer but what about crafting an air shield that covers a portion of the cooler fins?

https://kartshop.com/images/Rotax%20...r-Edit-2-p.jpg

 

Now you're over engineering an oversized cooling system or a thermostat that is not the right setpoint.

I feel like this is already becoming a cautionary tale for why going with the biggest cooling system you can possibly fit isn't always the best idea. Maybe the factory dual oil cooler system is good enough for most applications.

 

In hindsight, it might have been wise to install an oil temperature sensor before spending the money on upgraded oil coolers. My car is pretty stock and I haven't run it much since installing an oil temp sensor last year, but I'm really hoping I can get away with an upgraded single cooler or maybe stock duals.

 

Perhaps I'm daft, but isn't the majority of the OPs concern centered in the time between start up and fully warm? Why not just fix the "problem" by driving gently until fully up to temp?

 

I agree with that. I still don't see what the big issue is here. Looks like the concern was raised due to monitoring high oil pressure during warm up, and thinking that is a temperature issue.

1st, is the pressure during warm up even and issue. 2nd, if yes, how do we know it's caused by the cooling system?

 

For winter even in Houston, cover over or block one oil cooler or else your oil will never warm up.
I HAVE to do this even with my stock R1 system.

 

That can't be normal. I drove my R2 in New York winter (when there wasn't snow) and never had oil temp issues. Do you have a good temperature gauge?

If this was normal their would have been problems across any car in colder climates than Texas. What is your definition of "will never warm up"?

 

Issue I was having is even medium to heavy throttle up to 5k and holding there as much as possible for 30 minutes of driving would not get oil temps any hotter.

If anything this system has more restriction than stock single cooler, pressures should be a few psi lower at the sending unit. Pressures were perfect to FSM prior to switching this out.

I do believe the issue to be that with for size of the system the oil thermostat opens too early, there will not be a noticeable rise in oil temps after opening during warmup and 80C degree oil is just not warm enough. Am switching to the 95C oil thermostat. All goes along with heavily modifying a stock system, just got this part wrong.

A lot of great info has come up, especially
1) Racing Beat page is in reference to endurance cars, not even time attack or HDPE cars.
2) Sakebomb 25 row kit has the 95C oil thermostat, never noticed this one

 

My car is mostly stock, stock twins and the OEM single oil cooler. I haven't driven it very hard since installing an oil temperature sensor, but datalogs show oil temps in the 85C - 95C range once the engine is warmed up. I don't see a problem with 80C for oil temps, especially when you consider the sensor can't measure the oil near the bearings and rotors where it will be hotter.

 

My R1 and a friends with dual after market coolers both have had this problem.
We used temperature sensitive stick ons from Pegasus Racing.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...roduct=RP-TEMP

Stuck one right where the oil comes out of the engine and on the oil filter.
Thus we had before and after cooling temps.

 

Results?