Seven93

Hi...

I have some problems with the engine when i am trying to start it. It is only starting the first rotorhousing (the housing nearest the cockpit) The second housing can not start.

I have changed all 4 spark plugs to new ones.
I have tryed to take all the spark plugs out and took the fuel pump fuse out and turned the engine 3 times with 10 second a time.
I have checked that there is a ignition at the spark plugs.
I have tryed to tow the car and that did not work either.

It is only starting the one rotor nearest the cockpit...

When i took the spark plugs out from the housing (the housing in front of the car) they were wet from fuel so i know that is the problem but how do i solved this problem.

When the engine is starting it sounds like a 3 cylinder car and white smoke is coming out of the exhaust.

It is a JApanese model i just did buy and I have not yet getting starting it right...
I am about to get mad and helpless at the same time.

Please help me with that problem..????

BMike

Has the motor sat for a long time without being started? If so its possible you have a stuck apex seal, ussually you can tell because the car has an unussually fast cranking speed, but a blown apex seal obviously will have the same symptoms. If it cranks fast you can feed some automatic transmission lube through the intake into the front rotor, crank it and add fluid a couple times (not too much). If the cranking speed drops significantly your apex has dropped and the car should run fine, though it'll puke oil smoke forever (mine smoked for a week after we finally got all the apex seals free)

If this doesnt work you probably have a blown motor, have a compression test done to check that out.

2-Rotor

wrong post

Harold93

An easy way to check is take out your two bottom plugs one on each rotor pull out your fuses for your fuel pump, onee is attached to your battery its a 30 amper and the second is in the little box directly behind it they are labled ECU or something i cant remember off the top of my head. get a buddy to crank over the engine and you hold your finger over the hole for the plug as the engine turns over you should feel it when the seals pass your fingers it will be like you put your hand on a little vacume cleaner it will not hurt but the first time it might shock you a little you are feeling for three even spaced strong pulses, f you have them feel the aft rotor and check. both should be about the same as far a pressure and the way the spacing will be on the pulses. if you have three strong pulses on each rotor chances are you are ok and dont need to replace the seals. take some atf and an eye dropper and shoot some into the housing through the spark plug hole turn her over a few times and do the other rotor do each around three times. let it sit for a few min and then turn her over some more to flush the engine with air and unflood it. put your plugs back in replace the fuses and start her up if it runs smooth you are good to go if not you will need to start pulling stuff out to fix her. alot of the time it is stuck springs on the apex seals not blown seals after a car has sat for a while. good luck with it if you need more help let us know

BMike

If the seals are stuck he probably won't feel all 3 pulses, but that's a good "poor mans compression test" after he's tried the ATF method, my car had one hard pulse and two really weak ones before we dumped in the ATF, after the ATF it made three strong pops when cranked.

Seven93

Hi..

Thanx for the help.. But what is the ATF...???? When i took the spark plugs out i could here the 3 pulses so i know it is not a apex seal, but then again i did not put my hand down to feel if one of the pulse was not strong.

I will try to do that later tonight...

Should i put oli in both the rotor housing when it is only one of them there wont start..???

Thanx again...

Btw it is a 92 model with only 41.000 miles and it looks like new all over...

BMike

You only need to worry about the one rotor if you know the other one is firing correctly on all three faces. ATF is Automatic Transmission Fluid, it has alot of detergents which clean off the carbon and free up the apex seals if they're sticking.

Harold93

Bmike is right the atf will clean everythign but the carbon is scared of the **** it is like acid eating through the carbon you should do both rotors you are pulling everythign down it will not hurt anythign to clean out the aft one whie you are there it will only make things better. make sure you check to ensure that your pulses are even in force and spacing just because you hear them doesnt mean much. after you go through with the atf feel again it should feel a little stronger though you will have to have done it alot to have a feel for it. like i said if the engine sat for a while your springs and seals can have a bunch of **** on them it is better to clean out the whole engine than just half you never know you could be saving your self from having biger problems latter on. make sure that your mapa sencor is hooked up real well too i had a 7 that sat and when i finally got her up the vacume line on the map sencor was so tied it blew off when i started boosting. that is just a whole nother problem you want to avoid a zip tie will work well. good luck

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

to start off ,you should compression check the engine to see what you are workin with..Search for compression check..(I'm lazy)..and not tryin to scare ya but white smoke is usually a sign of a coolant seal ..how do you know it is running on one rotor?. you say it won't start and now it runs on one rotor/or front rotor is not firing<you said you got spark>.do you have the plug wires on correctly(connections good/wires good)..little info for you..

Seven93

Hi..

I have found out that the rotor against the cockpit says PIIIFT - PIIIFT - PIIFFT very loud and the rotor against the front only says pifft - pifft - pifft.. A very low sound...!!!

What is wrong with the front rotor..???

Could it be all 3 apex seals there is broken..????

tdazmansFD

iTrader: (1)

Just a thought, plus I'm surprizes nobody's metioned this by now. Did you check your boost sensor hose? They come off pretty easy especially when taking the elbo off for removing spark plugs.

Seven93

Where is that boost sensor hose placed at..???

If it is off, can it has something to do with the rotor not starting..??

Thnax

tdazmansFD

iTrader: (1)

It's located on the driverside firewall. Just behind the elbow. On top it reads Boost sensor. A little black box with a vacuum hose that conects underneath it. When it's disconnected, the ecu won't read anything so it makes your car run like complete ****! It's just a thought though since you changed your plugs and thats what happened to me. Go take a look and let me know. (crossing fingers)


OOps! just noticed your in Denmark! RHD Vehicle? if so it's on the passenger side firewall. But it's still behind the elbow.

Seven93

Ahh.. You mean the Mapsensor... Yes the hose is on it's place so that is not the problem. Thanx anyway.

Yes i live in Denmark but we also have LHD here in Denmark... But it is an RHD import car from Japan...

Harold93

the map sencer was mentioned and it was determined that it was not the problem because there is only a problem with one rotor. Seven93 dude i am telling you get the atf and run it through the more you post about the poblem it sounds like bad springs or stuck springs if your seals were all blown it would not give you a pulse and it would be almost impossible to have three even placed and simular pulses. the ATF will disolve the carbon and possible rust that has locked your springs, they will pop down and you should be good to go all of your posts are listing things that sound good as far as not having a blown engine if you are getting the pulses as you described you might be able to save her as always good luck

Seven93

Hi..

I have tryed the ATF and the problem is still there..??? Only one rotor is still running.

I took the plug out and put some ATF in the housing 3 times and turned the engine. I then let it be for 10 minutes and put the spark plug in again and try to start the engine... It did not work. It is still the same....

I don't know what to do now..???

Harold93

did you take the fuses i told you about out? if not you flooded the chamber, if you did you could still have some in there try this:
pull both lower plugs and both fuses, turn over the engine for 15 seconds then stop, wait for a min and a half and then do it again do this about ten to fifteen times put your plugs in but put the plug you took out of the good housing into the bad one, try to start the engine you will not be able to because the fuses are not it but it should offer some ignition to eliminate the remainder of the fuel. after that wait another min and put your fuses back in then try to start her. let me know what happens

Seven93

Hi..

I took the fuel fuse who are in the right side of the cockpit under the steering wheel and when i try to start it with that fuse off it only run for like 2 seconds so i am pretty sure that it was the correkt fuse.

I have borrowed at compressiontester from a friend and will try to make a test later on. I will come back with the result later..

Seven93

I have done a comp. test and the first rotor has 10.0 / 9,7 and the second rotor has only 5,0 / 5,2.. So does that mean that I have a broken apex seal or maybe all 3..???

I can still hear 3 weak pulse when I turn the engine...

BMike

Doesn't sound too good, if you're the handy type it might be time to start pulling the motor apart, if not, probably time to take it to a garage and have them run a few final checks before tearing into a rebuild or replacement engine.