2RotorsNaDream

iTrader: (7)

OK, short back story. I took my motor out of the car and painted the bay and engine, manifold, etc and put in a single turbo with FFE rails, ID1000s, ID 2000s, new fuel lines, BW s366 etc.

Put everything back in and now the car is not getting power to the ECU battery wire, and many others. ECU isn't powered, no power to the fuel pump, no power to the lights, radio, etc. But I do get power at the ignition and can try to crank the car, the sunroof works, windows, dash lights, etc. Checked all the fuses and they have continuity. What is the common point that I might be missing here? I don't think the taillights, turn signals, hazards, etc go through any shared relays or fuses with the ECU, fuel pump, etc but maybe I'm missing something. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm lost here.

Its been way too cold here to really go through it and the car been sitting in this same sad state since October when I finished installing everything. Spring is coming and I need I running for a tune and to get the bumper repaired and color matched and all that. Thanks everyone.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

I'm going to get really being generic with this response but it's worth considering. Most cars are never designed with any dedicated grounds with direct return to the negative battery post. I built an older cj jeep and this was a huge problem that jeep guys would encounter. The guys at AMC while trying to save money on copper wire thought that using the body tub as the ground was a good idea. The problem is that the body is a poor conductor of electricity. So lots of guys, myself included made dedicated grounds for everything past the fuse block. By dedicated ground I mean a appropriately sized copper ground wire running straight to the negative battery post. I even made one dedicated ground that ran to a copper rod that I threaded and mounted through the firewall and used that as my ground for everything in the cabin that was otherwise supposed to be ground to be body. I would run all my cabin ground wires to that copper post on the inside of the firewall. Needless to say I don't have any electrical problems with my 1983 cj7. I never had to many electrical issues with my previous fd's but I intended to do this with my current car when I start putting it back together this summer. I would say that 9 times out of 10 if your having electrical issues that don't result from a shorted circuit. It's going to be a grounding issue or lack there of.

Bubble Tech

iTrader: (4)

before i even read, my first guess is ground. there are TWO ground cables on the motor to chassis. 1 from the UIM to the firewall (if you are still using the stock one look to see if the plastic connector is melted, either way, replace it with a thicker gauge speaker wire. The second ground, im not 100% where the stock location is, but i have it from the block (where the PS pulley use to be, to the bottom of the frame rail (around where the stock oil cooler bolts to the frame.

Those are my first guesses, lmk if I win dinner =)

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Check the fuse box at the positive battery terminal. I can't tell you how many cars I have seen that had the engine bay stripped for paint or someone didn't know what to disconnect, and they removed one of the bolts that hold the 120 amp main fuse. Also, there should be a power lead going from that fuse box to the relax box night next to the driver's shock tower. I'm betting something is loose/disconnected there.

2RotorsNaDream

iTrader: (7)

I found the two grounds by the bumper support were disconnected, I had no idea they were grounds since they had a plastic piece connecting 5 ground wires each. I also see that the thick ground wire coming from the relay box by the drivers side shock tower was bolted to the steering rack, not sure if that's a good ground point or not but I'm going to try to find where it was bolted to before. If anyone can tell me that would be great. Thanks.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Those two grounds on the front core support are the main grounds for the body harness. Sand down the metal and put some dielectric grease, then bolt them down securely. There is no ground wire for the relay box. What you are describing sounds is a power lead and it should go to the fuse box with the positive battery terminal. There is a large ground on the starter/alternator harness. It goes to a bracket behind the power steering pump in stock form. I like t bolt that one directly to the engine. There is an unused bolt hole right in front of the block coolant drain.

2RotorsNaDream

iTrader: (7)

I was describing the large ground on the starter/alternator harness, thanks a lot for that. I saw that open bolt hole and was actually going to put it there too. The steering column is not a good ground point right?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

No as the rack is isolated from the chassis by rubber bushings.