Prob with temp gauge: sender or gauge?
10-07-02, 03:12 PM
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Prob with temp gauge: sender or gauge?
(Still a bit of a newbie, so be gentle). I know that the stock coolant temperature gauge is unreliable. My question is, is it the gauge itself that is the problem or the sender (or both)? I plan on putting another temp gauge in, but if I can use the stock gauge or sender then I'd like to. Has anyone done this, or why would I not want to? Thanks.
10-07-02, 05:40 PM
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look here, you have to right click and save target as:
http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7_...structions.pdf
the stock gauge is accurate, it responds exactly how mazda told it to. The gauge fix above essentially fixes the sender to be linear.
http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7_...structions.pdf
the stock gauge is accurate, it responds exactly how mazda told it to. The gauge fix above essentially fixes the sender to be linear.
10-08-02, 09:47 AM
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Wow! Thanks rynberg. That is a truly excellent write-up. Did you write it? Can't believe I haven't heard about that mod before. Do many people do it? (I'd like to hear from anyone else who has).
10-08-02, 09:53 AM
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That mod is nice. I like to acutally see a number though so I use an aftermarket guage. If you get an aftermarket guage then you need to get an aftermarket sending unit.
10-08-02, 11:09 AM
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Originally posted by LAracer
Wow! Thanks rynberg. That is a truly excellent write-up. Did you write it? Can't believe I haven't heard about that mod before. Do many people do it? (I'd like to hear from anyone else who has).
Wow! Thanks rynberg. That is a truly excellent write-up. Did you write it? Can't believe I haven't heard about that mod before. Do many people do it? (I'd like to hear from anyone else who has).
It is a good mod and will certainly be accurate but I agree with Rated R1, I like being able to see a number instead of just an approximate temp. It is cheaper than buying a gauge and won't clutter up your interior though.
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10-08-02, 11:52 AM
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I made this mod about a year ago and have been very pleased. However, I went a step further by measuring my OEM sensor's acutal resistance vs temperature, and then use that when calibrating. Now I can very nearly tell the actual temperature, but still get to use the factory gauge. I've even looked in to adding numbers to the gauge face. I can send an Excel spreadsheet containg the details to anyone interested.
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