Primary CHRA and comp cover removal
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Primary CHRA and comp cover removal
Hello everybody,
Is it possible to remove the front/primary turbo CHRA/cartridge ONLY, including it's compressor cover, leaving everything else of the twins assembly?
By having a quick look, oil feed line seems quite rigid, aswell as waterlines, and the heatshield seems to make the turbine housing bolts quite uneasy to access.
Has someone successfully done it before?
Is it possible to remove the front/primary turbo CHRA/cartridge ONLY, including it's compressor cover, leaving everything else of the twins assembly?
By having a quick look, oil feed line seems quite rigid, aswell as waterlines, and the heatshield seems to make the turbine housing bolts quite uneasy to access.
Has someone successfully done it before?
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Are you talking about doing it on the car or off the car?
It is doable to remove just the front turbo assembly, you will need to remove the oil feed and the water lines. Also need to remove the wastegate and precontrol actuators. 6 13mm bolts hold the assembly to the turbine housing.
There's no way to do it on the car, you won't have access to all the fasteners.
I've done it before to mix and match turbos - you can have 2 sets each with 1 bad turbo and make one good set, for example.
Make sure you get the clocking dead on when you put it back in place. Get it most of the way bolted in then you can use the oil and water feed lines to make sure the orientation is dead on to the rear turbo. If it's a few degrees off the oil/water lines won't bolt up flat and could leak.
Dale
It is doable to remove just the front turbo assembly, you will need to remove the oil feed and the water lines. Also need to remove the wastegate and precontrol actuators. 6 13mm bolts hold the assembly to the turbine housing.
There's no way to do it on the car, you won't have access to all the fasteners.
I've done it before to mix and match turbos - you can have 2 sets each with 1 bad turbo and make one good set, for example.
Make sure you get the clocking dead on when you put it back in place. Get it most of the way bolted in then you can use the oil and water feed lines to make sure the orientation is dead on to the rear turbo. If it's a few degrees off the oil/water lines won't bolt up flat and could leak.
Dale
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Yep that joker has to come out. It's not the worst job on earth all things considered. Also a good time to clean things up and replace gaskets and hoses and whatnot.
What's wrong with your primary turbo?
Dale
What's wrong with your primary turbo?
Dale
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hi,
Primary is leaking oil on exhaust side, leading to white smoke during off pedal and idle.
I achieved the twins removal.
I removed all the lines and wastegates
I can't separate CHRA from turbine housing. I tried soft and violent methods and it doesn't separate. Did someone experience this kind of difficulty? How did you sort it out?
Thanks in advance for your help
Primary is leaking oil on exhaust side, leading to white smoke during off pedal and idle.
I achieved the twins removal.
I removed all the lines and wastegates
I can't separate CHRA from turbine housing. I tried soft and violent methods and it doesn't separate. Did someone experience this kind of difficulty? How did you sort it out?
Thanks in advance for your help
#6
Rotary Freak
Most difficult part on 255/265 turbos at least, is separating the compressor housing from the rotating assembly once the large circlip is removed...silicon used in assembly can be tenacious.
On the other side, other than the inconel bolts, which are notorious for galling and breaking, once they're removed, everything should be plain sailing. A dead blow hammer should be the limit of the "violence".
On the other side, other than the inconel bolts, which are notorious for galling and breaking, once they're removed, everything should be plain sailing. A dead blow hammer should be the limit of the "violence".
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
30 minutes of smooth head hammer friendly punches
The problem was definitely the primary turbo turbine oil seal. The back and the blades are coated with coked oil
The problem was definitely the primary turbo turbine oil seal. The back and the blades are coated with coked oil
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