Predicament
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 725
Likes: 2
From: Cherry Point / Havelock NC
I have a problem. I put a manual engine in my automatic car. Now I find out that the old starter for the automatic won't bolt to the manual housing. Bums me, I had a manual starter, but sold it on the fourm.
Question, will will the manual starter fit the automatic trans?
Needless to say that I was hoping to get the car running this weekend after waiting a year.
Terry7
Question, will will the manual starter fit the automatic trans?
Needless to say that I was hoping to get the car running this weekend after waiting a year.
Terry7
There is significant difference in the rear irons if memory serves me correctly, both in the starter cut-out area and in the bolt pattern.
I *think* that all you need to do is get a manual starter, the automatic one is TOTALLY different (as you discovered) in how it bolts up.
I *think* that all you need to do is get a manual starter, the automatic one is TOTALLY different (as you discovered) in how it bolts up.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Dude, this won't work! You CANNOT use a manual engine and an auto trans together. You CAN use an automatic engine and a manual trans together.
The manual engine's rear iron is shaped like all the other rotaries...like a big circle. The starter bolts directly to the manual trans from behind the trans, and does not interface with the engine at all.
The automatic engine's rear iron has a big chunk cut out of the side of it, and 2 bolt holes/studs. So does the auto tranny. The auto starter bolts on like a big plate onto the side of these 2 parts combined.
So if you put a manual rear iron in the way...well...there's no way that big flat auto starter can bolt on there.
You can however leave an automatic engine/rear iron in place and bolt up a manual behind it, because the manual starter can still go on the manual trans in it's intended location.
You have 3 options.
1) replace or rebuild your engine with an automatic rear iron
2) cut/knock a hole in the manual rear iron for the starter and hope that the 2 bolts on the auto trans are enough to hold it. I'm joking...I dont think it could be done, even if you wanted to try and hack it up, without destroying the engine and hitting a passage of some sort.
3) try to cut the front half of the auto starter off so that it bolts only to the auto trans and does not interfere with the manual rear plate. Again, I dont think it can be done, but you're welcome to have a look for yourself.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but there is no way around this one. You're pulling an engine this weekend.
The manual engine's rear iron is shaped like all the other rotaries...like a big circle. The starter bolts directly to the manual trans from behind the trans, and does not interface with the engine at all.
The automatic engine's rear iron has a big chunk cut out of the side of it, and 2 bolt holes/studs. So does the auto tranny. The auto starter bolts on like a big plate onto the side of these 2 parts combined.
So if you put a manual rear iron in the way...well...there's no way that big flat auto starter can bolt on there.
You can however leave an automatic engine/rear iron in place and bolt up a manual behind it, because the manual starter can still go on the manual trans in it's intended location.
You have 3 options.
1) replace or rebuild your engine with an automatic rear iron
2) cut/knock a hole in the manual rear iron for the starter and hope that the 2 bolts on the auto trans are enough to hold it. I'm joking...I dont think it could be done, even if you wanted to try and hack it up, without destroying the engine and hitting a passage of some sort.
3) try to cut the front half of the auto starter off so that it bolts only to the auto trans and does not interfere with the manual rear plate. Again, I dont think it can be done, but you're welcome to have a look for yourself.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but there is no way around this one. You're pulling an engine this weekend.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 725
Likes: 2
From: Cherry Point / Havelock NC
Well, live and learn continues to be my motto. Like it or not! I thought I had done a pretty thorough search on the engine install processes. Spent alot of time on research. I did, I guess all my home work. This just slipped through the crack somehow. I now have alot of work ahead of me just in time for all the hot weather!
Thanks to all who replied! Thanks Kevin for your time and input you haven't let me down yet when I have ask you a question. Your a great value on this forum!
Life can be hard when you own an FD. It can also take you to great thrills, thats why I own one. These things also have a way of draining your bank account!
Till next time.
Terry7
Thanks to all who replied! Thanks Kevin for your time and input you haven't let me down yet when I have ask you a question. Your a great value on this forum!
Life can be hard when you own an FD. It can also take you to great thrills, thats why I own one. These things also have a way of draining your bank account!
Till next time.
Terry7
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 725
Likes: 2
From: Cherry Point / Havelock NC
Well, if you have performed the swap yourself, meaning you did it yourself. I can understand that. I think allot of people on this forum say it, but haven't done it their self. They may know someone who has or paid someone to do it. If you have then I respect it. However I guess I am a die hard automatic man for now. Who knows maybe some day if I can come across a good donor car. Then again I would just have to go single and do a 20b swap too. It's only money right?
Who has the best deal on just a gasket rebuild kit, Rotary Aviation? Or could Ray at Malloy do better?
Terry7
Who has the best deal on just a gasket rebuild kit, Rotary Aviation? Or could Ray at Malloy do better?
Terry7
Last edited by sevensheaven; Mar 9, 2006 at 11:19 AM.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Yes, the 4th option is the swap. IT is not terrible, but it is not to be taken lightly either. Including all the wiring to do the job "right" versus hacking and re-pinning wires, you're easily looking at 2 grand in parts costs alone. IF you're paying to get the swap done, figure another $1500-2000 in labor.
To me, that's along the territory of "just sell it and put money with it to get a manual".
To me, that's along the territory of "just sell it and put money with it to get a manual".
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