My guess is that you have a short. I would start with pulling the passenger door panel off and check for any funky connections. Test the inputs and outputs at each harness. Make sure your power window regulator shows voltage when you switch between up and down. Look at page Z-94 in your shop manual.

 

Hold it a little closer to the monitor. But really, you should pick up a manual. I will pay for it's self the first time you use it. There is a manual online somewhere, but I don't really know where it is. Maybe someone else can point you there. Electrical problems are not always easy, but they can be solved. And yes, someone may have experienced your problem (though I have not heard of anyone), but that's not to say that you can't figure it out with some common sense and effort. Shorts are cause by the lack of continuity. In your case it is intermitant,an indication of poor condutivity, most likely caused by a pinched wire, or poor ground near the window motor. Why the motor, and not the switch? Because both driver side, and passenger are able to make the window go up and down. Or, you could simply have the passenger side window locked.

 

You might have bad continuity in one of your wires, I did and it just happened to be a wire located in the door jam , I'm still trying to get that harness off!!

or it could be your switch, diassemble your switch and you'll be suprized at how much black charcoal stuff you'll find on the contact patches, use some sand paper to wipe it off..

 

you can down load the factory service manual here
http://iluvmyrx7.com/

 

Before you go to a lot of trouble, check out the passenger window lockout switch on the driver's door. Having already replaced the driver's side motor under warranty, when the passenger's side went out I automatically assumed it was toast too. Apparently, I inadvertantly hit the lockout switch with my elbow, and looked like a doopa when I took it in for repair.

 

It is the power window switch on the driver's side. Check to see if it does feel a little loose when you pull up on it compared to the other switches. I have the same problem on my FD and bought a new switch. (common Mazda problem, my old FC also had a bad switch). Pull the switch out and take off the screws on the bottom (careful not to drop all the insides on the floor). You'll find that the little plastic rocker tab inside of the switch is cracked. You can avoid the $160+ for a new switch by getting another used switch and swapping a new toggle. Problem is that you'll probably have to fix it again in a year or 2 using used parts...

 

My driver side window only goes down but not up. Since there is only 1 motor, I guess they are just reversing the direction of the motor and so the switch must be bad, but I have already played with the switch and opened it up as far as I could and I couldn't see any problem with it. I don't think it is a bad ground since the window still goes down. I am downloading the wiring spec manual now, hopefully that will tell me what wires to check.
Can I just short out the connection on the back of the switch with a wire to make it go back up for now? I just dont want to park with an open window.

 

I looked at the wiring diagram and it would seem that if I short out the W/L with the R on the main power window switch, it should make the window go up.
I tried it and it didn't seem to make any diff. I did measure 12V on the W/L wire which is good (since that should be coming from the battery).
Alternatively, I can reach the wire that runs around the pully's since I have the panelling off from the door, but it seems that there is some kind of break/lock mechanism on the wire since I cannot pull it up to force the window up, does anyone know if you can disengage that lock somehow to allow you to manually close the window?
It would seem that this would be necessary to work on a broken/seized window. I have the shop manual and didn't see anything explaining this.

 

Mine passenger will go up if I use the passenger window switch. You can tell if the switch is broken - it will feel very loose when pulling it up(when compared to the unbroken switch). You should be able to buy a new switch for 10-20% off from your Mazda dealer if you negotiate. Or just use some place like MazdaFormance (which is a dealer) or Malloy Mazda.

 

to test the switch, just take out the switch and test it with a DMM,,...

as for my previous post, I finally figured out what my problem was. I pulled out the harness off the door jam, and some of the pins were ******* corroded. I bought a used male harness, but it seems there's some corrosion on the female part... Unless someone sells me a female harness, i'm just gonna chop off the harness and directly attach the wires, which I'll do during the summer when I have a little bit more time.