Im not making it a discussion about RP. People can use whatever info they want from this thread for whatever they want.

It seems like its you who's using each post of mine to take little stabs about my "driving style".

Its rather childish but funny at the same time. I dont care. You asked for UOA's, you're getting them.

Even though you dont approve mine, ill keep on posting them for others to see. Im entitled to.

And on that note, maybe i should do castrol syntec next since the syntec rx8 did so well. Probably after winter. I cant wait to post my granny driving oil report for that one.

 

Ok. Let's say you have fuel dilution. So what?

I have no plans on getting my oil tested. Ignorance is bliss. For the record, when I change it it's usually disgusting-looking. And I'm not going to do anything about that besides shorter oil change intervals. Yes, I still use my OMP.

 

I was always under the impression of heavily fuel diluted oil can contribute to a blown engine. Not necessarily the cause but can contribute. Unless im wrong.

I dont really care about the technicalities of all this. I just thought its kinda cool to know whats going on with my oil, using the different brands i prefered.

Maybe a true hardcore tracker can use these UOA's for real meaning but most of us, like me who drive like "grandma" can have a little sense of whats going on with the oil being used.

Will i change my driving style according to these tests?

Of course not.

But at least i know what oil better protected my engine and the oil EXPERTS tell me when i SHOULD change my oil.

And i will listen to them.

 

Any idea if these tests compared the regular RP or XPR series? I am going to give the XPR a shot next season and will test the oil after 1k/2k miles of abuse.

 

The oil thins out (loses viscosity) until it runs off your dipstick like water - not the greatest for engine protection. There seems to be a direct connection between thin, gas diluted oil and excessive bearing wear in my engine.

 

I think is very rarely the case, it's more an issue of excessive wear. The only guy I've ever heard make a connection between engine failure and an overdue oil change was Brian (BNR)

 

It's a good thing that rotaries have very few bearing problems, relatively speaking. Spun bearings rarely occur. It's not like a WRX, or a 3000GT, or a Mark III Supra--or any built piston motor where bearing clearances become a big deal. Frequent oil changes and accelerated wear come with the territory when you modify an engine. If the oil looks watery and gross it's time to change it, regardless of how many miles it's been. This UOA data just reinforces that.

 

The point is you can do something about it. See my report for VR 1 SAE 50 on the previous page. Significantly reduced wear metals. The oil thins out so fast in these motors that, in my opinion, you're crazy to use a "standard" 10w-30 or even 10w-40. The common arguments against higher viscosity oils are a) gas mileage (who cares, it's an FD) and b) start-up wear, which is almost completely offset in my case by wear at operating temps, based on the results. I'm very easy the engine until it's completely warmed up.

Yes, bearing failures are rare, but heavily worn bearings are farily common. Why roll the dice with your expensive motor?

 

Oddly enough, the oil didn't really look or smell spent when I drained it.

I'm running some Valvoline VR1 20/50 this time around.

 

My oil always looked watery with a faint smell of fuel and i thought that was bad. Which is why i change it every 3 months regardless. At one point, i only did about 300 miles or so in a 3 month period and i changed the oil still.

Then going by these tests with my samples, they recommended me at one point to go ahead and run more miles on the oil. And i thought the oil was already bad.

 

Cleaned up thread to keep it on the topic of used oil analysis. Get your oil tested and post up here.

 

Interesting article from Blackstone labs on fuel dilution:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsl...m_medium=email


The tester obviously needs a rotary


Happy reading.

 

Yeah i got that email last night too lol.

Will have an idemitsu oil report within the next 2 weeks in case anyone here was curious to see vauge results.

 

Finally got my idemitsu report.



Driving habits and style hasnt changed. Didnt just "drive on the highway" to rack up miles to get the oil tested.

Just a comparison of the different oils with the SAME driving habits/style.

IN order from left to right.

Idemitsu (most recent test), mobil 1 full syn, royal purple, castrol gtx.

All 10w-30.

 

I came to the same conclusion as no more rice(heavy fuel dilution means you need thicker oil)

I currently have Kendall SAE 50 in my sump. I noticed less junk in my catch can so far.

 

I think there's more to the reports than just fuel dilution.

 

I think I need to get on this UOA stuff to add a different "Driving Style". Unlike my good friend "Granny Shifter" above, I will offer the "Lead Foot" perspective. I drive pretty damn hard. I don't know why, but it's fun that way. OH, and I basically DAILY DRIVE my FD. I just ordered the kit (11/8/11), and will be using the Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 (full synthetic) to add to the comparison. Howard Coleman suggest 5W-30, so this 5W-40 should be a good comparison with 40 being slightly heavier. Next, I'll want to try a 20W-50. I have a little over 45k on a reman. This should be informative. I like the UOA of 1QUIK7's Idemitsu 10/30. You using stock OMP? Premixing?

 

Im not a granny shifter, i just dont beat on my cars. I do get on it though, why have a sports car if you dont push it?

There are some people i have seen who floor it at EVERY LIGHT. Thats just plain retarded and even though maybe some cars can handle some abuse, i would never do that to my cars. Save the extreme torture for the track. Getting on it ocassionally on the streets is fine, which is what i do.

Anyway i have the stock OMP and its working perfectly. I am premixing with either protek-r or idemitsu 1/2 oz per gallon of gas.

 

I was just poking fun about the "Granny Shifter" comment, because No_More_Rice was. =o)

Yeah, don't floor it from light to light either, but I do drive the crap out of my car. I probably do it more so than not, but then again I still have sequential twins, so it's fun when the second turbo comes on. I wonder how I'd be with a single... Yeah man, just ordered the kit. I hear a lot of good things about this Rotella T6 (Heavy Duty Oil) on BITOG and here on the forum I think RENESISFD(?) uses it.

I usually have an OCI of 3,000, but it seems like I might have to reduce that. When I used to run conventional in my first FD I changed my oil once a month.

 

^ That is the oil I use. I used it because it is synthetic, and due to the low viscosity at cold temps. I run the omp.



John

 

As an owner of a diesel powered boat I have the Cat mech. pulls oil for analysis every oil change. The intent of oil analysis is not to analyze the immediate condition but to trend engine condition and operating parameters. Over the years of oil analysis one can predict conditional changes (gasket leakage, bearing wear, casting wear, contaminates, and many other things) to avert costly repairs. Cost of big diesel engine repairs can get quite significant real fast so any trending towards a minor situation the repair is undertaken immediately.
With that said I think oil analysis benefit in these rotarys is overstated if not of little real use. What are you going to do if, for example, calcium is high; Rebuild the engine because the water seals are failing??? I doubt it as there is no trending or curve to base the decision on. By the time a suitable history of oil analysis is in place the engine will require rebuild anyway. This data in my opinion is curious but of little real use. Secondly, to use the oil analysis to set a viscosity (especially to something way out of whack from the Manuf. recommendations) for compensation to dilution is very risky and will probably be the demise of the engine regardless.

 

Ttmott, while I agree with your argument in the sense that if we catch a problem, it might be kind of useless since most internal if not all problems would require a rebuilt, BUT that is not the main purpose of what I would use it for. It's more so to get a better understanding of what's happening inside the motor, what's going on with the oil, and is this the right oil for me?

 

Ran mobile 1, 10w30 in my 06 nissan frontier (v6) for 10,000 miles. Tested it, and it was still good. Truck had 50k miles at the time, conservative driving style. If you drive your street car like it is a race car, then your oil change intervals will decrease, naturally. Usually the factory recommends oil change intervals for the average driver. Viscosity does play a role in bearing shock resistance, but you must consider the implications of running a viscosity outside the factory recommendations. I believe Mazda recommends changing the oil every 5k miles. Why would this be?