Post your experience on NPG+
05-14-09, 01:24 AM
#1
Post your experience on NPG+
Here is mine: NPG+ over 5.5 years and 27K miles
Malloy Reman
Stock twin
M2 Large IC
850cc X 4
Fluidyne radiator
TwinPower
Fresh NPG+
Aux Electric water pump with temp sensor for hot shut off condition. Aux pump pulls coolant from the rear plastic pipe and pumps coolant back to the water pump inlet.
No heater
No A/C
7 lbs cap
2 qts Canton Expansion tank
TB coolant hoses bypassed
2nd oil cooler added - this has the largest temp drop of 10C on average.
With a single oil cooler - One summer in Phoenix AZ - on one 118 F day with coolant temp as high as 130 C shown by PFC commander. Car normally showed 118 C to 122C.
With two Mazda oil coolers and tuned by Steve Kan at 12 psi 311 rwhp 264 rwtq, car normally ranges from 85C to 100C in mild Northern Cal weather of 65 to 85F.
This was my third motor and by far the coolest running motor once I had the second oil cooler installed. The first and second failed due to a combination of o-ring failure and upper housing warpage. My take was that the pressure wasn't holding and the coolant micro-boiled causing cumulative damage. The first lasted 50K, the second 45K but I was able to keep it alive for 10K using the CRC block-weld (which ruined the heater core, the original radiator and even the turbos by clogging them all up).
I had a slow leak from the coolant hard line in the turbo over a period of 2 years. Since the coolant was designed to run at 0 psi, there was no issue to the engine even in the 115 to 118F Arizona summer. I ended up using Alumna Seal to fix the slow leak.
Original coolant over 5.5 years showed almost no changes in voltage output with a voltmeter set to 2V, ground on the block and the red probe into the coolant at the coolant neck (showing 0.225 volt). Try that on normal coolant!
Malloy Reman
Stock twin
M2 Large IC
850cc X 4
Fluidyne radiator
TwinPower
Fresh NPG+
Aux Electric water pump with temp sensor for hot shut off condition. Aux pump pulls coolant from the rear plastic pipe and pumps coolant back to the water pump inlet.
No heater
No A/C
7 lbs cap
2 qts Canton Expansion tank
TB coolant hoses bypassed
2nd oil cooler added - this has the largest temp drop of 10C on average.
With a single oil cooler - One summer in Phoenix AZ - on one 118 F day with coolant temp as high as 130 C shown by PFC commander. Car normally showed 118 C to 122C.
With two Mazda oil coolers and tuned by Steve Kan at 12 psi 311 rwhp 264 rwtq, car normally ranges from 85C to 100C in mild Northern Cal weather of 65 to 85F.
This was my third motor and by far the coolest running motor once I had the second oil cooler installed. The first and second failed due to a combination of o-ring failure and upper housing warpage. My take was that the pressure wasn't holding and the coolant micro-boiled causing cumulative damage. The first lasted 50K, the second 45K but I was able to keep it alive for 10K using the CRC block-weld (which ruined the heater core, the original radiator and even the turbos by clogging them all up).
I had a slow leak from the coolant hard line in the turbo over a period of 2 years. Since the coolant was designed to run at 0 psi, there was no issue to the engine even in the 115 to 118F Arizona summer. I ended up using Alumna Seal to fix the slow leak.
Original coolant over 5.5 years showed almost no changes in voltage output with a voltmeter set to 2V, ground on the block and the red probe into the coolant at the coolant neck (showing 0.225 volt). Try that on normal coolant!
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