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For Dave, Dale, and Testrun and the other folks that have helped me through this journey on this car.
I really appreciate all the help you folks have been giving me with this car and putting up with my inexperience.
I recognize that you guys are taking the time to spoon feed me some answers that are definitely already somewhere in the bowels of these forums; and I appreciate it immensely.
If any of you happen to make it to 7's day in nyc this year I'll buy dinner.
Took the IAC/BAC valve out and it looked clean but was sticking, might have been on the shaft out of view.
Threw at it every solvent under the sun until giving it 12v power would actuate it quickly and reliably every time. Threw it back in-- works like a charm now.
Car still has a tendency to drop revs LOW if I free rev and let off the throttle with AC full blast, but for the most part it stays on now.
And thank you for the words of reassurance about the vaccum pressure-- really helps me trust the car now to put it through its paces and start putting some real break in miles on it.
Frankly I should have checked this first having already encountered an idle issue with this valve once before on the old engine.
Shouldn't have let my arrogance stop me from triple checking things...
Check the dash pot, it could be bad or mis-adjusted. That slows the throttle closing so the throttle doesn't just snap shut. If it's bad or out of adjustment the car can drop to low RPM when coming to a light or stall. Search some on this, I've talked about it plenty in the past.
This is my first time dealing with a manual throttle so I wasn't aware such a thing existed, but it makes perfect sense now!
Thanks Dale, I'll do some searching.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Check the dash pot, it could be bad or mis-adjusted. That slows the throttle closing so the throttle doesn't just snap shut. If it's bad or out of adjustment the car can drop to low RPM when coming to a light or stall. Search some on this, I've talked about it plenty in the past.
Car still stalling out when you let revs drop with AC on. Prime suspect is a bent line to the AC dryer that I suspect is increasing load on the AC system and causing the issues.
I tried maxing out-- then going beyond the max dashpot adjustment by using washers instead of the factory adjustment nut.
Nothing keeps the car from stalling out when letting revs drop from 4k. The only way to keep it from stalling is to set the idle to 1600 with AC on.
Can someone point me to a place where I can get a replacement line affordably? I've come up with zero hits so far in my searching..
Update: I used vice clamps to kind of de-kink the line and it has served as kind of a band-aid fix but still not perfect. Stalls much less frequently now.
I don't recall which ECU you have right now as my coffee is still absorbing.... I would assume any aftermarket you can just adjust the recovery rpm... you definitely can with the PFC.
I regularly see 220* oil temp when sitting still or stop and go traffic. It calms right down when I get moving again. As far as your stalling issue with the ac on, do you have a lightweight flywheel? I didn’t see that mentioned in this thread. If your dash pot is working ( push down on the plunger a few times and it should come back quickly ) and you are running the factory ecu, you can check a couple things easily. First, I would smoke test the intake to make sure you don’t have any leaks. I’ve seen cars with missing vacuum caps that had a buttery smooth idle. Second check that your tps is calibrated correctly. Third Check the air adjustment screw under the throttle body and see where it’s set, and lastly when the car is cold reach down to the AC compressor and turn it by hand clockwise. It should spin over relatively easy without binding.
06-05-21, 07:02 PM
