85rotarypower

Ok, first off don't say search. My problem seems to me to be too specific for a search.

Ok, I am fed up with all the problems my car has had. I thought I got it running properly, and now this. BUt let me explain. I drove the car without problem for the 2 days I have had it on the road. Then, while doing a run for my job, my idle goes all to ****. Kept stalling and it sounded like it was running on one rotor. But this was only at idle. It ran fine while accelerating and while coasting, but if I was just cruising along, it would sorta cut out constantly. So, I went home and changed cars for my jobs sake.

After work, I decided I would pinpoint my problem. Its not ignition, there is a very good possibility it is fuel related, but the thing that conserns me the most is my redneck compression check results. What I did was take the leading spark plug out, one at a time then turned the engine over by hand. Front rotor gave 1 pulse/rev. Just like when I did it before. Rear rotor gave 1 pulse on the first rev, but on the second and third revs, nothing. So I decide to compare the two rotors while using the starter to crank the engine. The two rotors gave out the same pulses.

Now, I should mention that when its idling right now, the engine shakes the whole car. At first I traced it to a possible idle circuit problem, but now I'm not sure. Could my engine be blown????

BTW, this started while just cruising at 50 km/h.

BLKTOPTRVL

That's sorta how my 79 behaved when it lost compression.

I could tell you that mine...

...ran the best I had ever experienced a few hundred miles before it went.
...went while I was cruising on the highway at around 60 mph.
...seemed only to be running a little poorly until I got off the highway.
...would not idle, but was able to start
...seemed to me just a little rough during acceleration.

Getting a real compression test is the only way to get an answer.

BLKTOPTRVL

.

jimmdog

Think Its fuel related By some Berkable 2+2 Carb cleaner, Spray It around your Intake If the Idle smooths out you have a Vacum Leak, mist some down the carb while running smooths out, you have clogged jets, No positive results buy a engine rebuild kit ,Good Luck

r0taryluv

First thing....DO NOT spray carb cleaner around the intake on the rubber hoses. The carb cleaner is some harsh stuff and can cause the silicone to detearate quicker. Ok you said it doesnt seem to be an ignition problem so I take it you have checked spark on all plugs.Next I would say to check common things, seeings I dont know what you have done to your car lately I would first check the fuel filter, second would be get a spray bottle and put 50/50 dish soap and water to spary on the vacuum lines while the car is running after having it at narmal operating temp. While at idle while misting the soap and water if the car changes pitch/idle speed it is a vacuum leak like 85rotarypower said. After making sure it isnt Vacuum while still letting it idle pour about 4 ounces of Marvel Mystry Oil down primarys in the carb, this will help loosen some slug that might be in there along with lubing the carb. After that you can go ahead and wash the engine with all that soap and water you have on there :] ......let us know some updates.

Keep r0tating,
Mike

REVHED

These are classic symptoms of flooding which the Nikki carb is quite prone to do. Next time it happens check the float levels or take the air cleaner lid off and see if there's fuel pouring into the booster venturis.

85rotarypower

Ok, I am pretty sure its not a vacuum leak, and I know its not ignition related because everything but the ignitors have been replaced and both my tachs work (one tach on each coil). Fuel filter has been replaced and fuel is getting to the carb. The main jets are not clogged since I can see the fuel misting out of them when I open the throttle a little. The mist is even on both barrels too. I know for a fact that its running only on one rotor at idle because the car shakes like a **** at anything below 1000 rpm. Above 1500 rpm it seems to have good power, but while just cruising it likes to stumble quite irratically and frequently. Anything below 1500 rpm seems like it just wants to bog if your on the gas too much.

I've narrowed it down to the idle circuit being clogged with something or I'm loosing compression on the rear rotor. But if I REALLY richen it up it starts to run on both rotors. I mean rich as in the mixture screw almost all the way out.

I really hope I'm not loosing this engine. I can't afford to put a new one in right now.

Edit: Saw your post after I finished typing this, revhed. The float levels are a little low, but not so much that the car should run this bad. It is deffinately NOT flooding. I went through that kinda **** about 2 months ago and I tell you I know what flooding looks like.

Junia

It sounds EXACTLY like how my car ran when my manifold o-rings went to **** on my car and some coolant leaked into the combustion chamber.

Car would shake really bad at idle or if I tried to cruise at one speed/try to keep the gas pedal steady. Just like yours nothing was gradual. It ran fine and then BAM next second it idled like crap.

I know that alot of people just plug the coolant passages on the intake manifold with quarters but I just went and got new o-rings for a couple of bucks from VB since I needed that coolant to help warm up the intake when driving in the cold.

85rotarypower

Junia, did you see any signs of your engine burning coolant? Stuff like white smoke out the tailpipe? I ask because I don't have anything like that. I don't even smell coolant in the exhaust.

85rotarypower

I forgot to mention that I had a little problem with a stuck open throttle the other night. When I took it around the block to test a few things, the linkage for the choke that goes to the main throttle linkage came off. When I did a full throttle run, the throttle stayed open after I let off the gas. The engine probably hit something close to 10000 rpm for a few seconds. I'm not sure if this means anything, but it could help in diagnosing the problem.

Junia

No, I didn't have any smoke or anything like that. The only reason I knew that one of my o-rings went bad is that I had a small amount of coolant puddling up on the intake manifold right where its bolted on to the engine. It was a very small amount. From what I understand the o-rings can go bad and not even show that at times.

Also, when I had this problem my friend used to tell me that I would throw flames out of my tailpipe more often.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like an Apex seal that is sticking at low RPM, and then releases it self at high RPM (due to centrifugal force).

Sounds like a good candidate for the ATF Treatment.

Metallic_rock

Damn, man... after all the research people have done, you still hear the ATF thing thrown out.

DO NOT USE ATF. ATF was not designed to be poured into an engine. MMO, on the other hand, does the same thing and WAS DESIGNED to be poured into an engine. (If you don't know how this works, you warm up your engine, turn it off, and pour some MMO down the carb while turning your engine over. Let it sit for a few hours or so and re-start.) Prepare for a smoke cloud.

In your particular case, since your engine is actually running, you might be a candidate for the STEAM CLEAN option. Here's how it works- Warm up the engine, get a buddy to hold the engine at 3-3.5k. get a 12 oz bottle of water, pour it SLOWLY into the carby... a tiny bit at a time one primary hole at a time. This will take you a little while, but use the whole bottle.

do not worry about rust, as the inside of your engine is so hot that the water is instantly turned to steam and goes right out the exhaust. The steam helps to break down carbon buildup on your rotors.

You may end up needing to do both of these things, but I'd try the steam clean first to get the majority of the crap off.


Oh, and put some MMO in your gas- one oz for every gallon you put in your tank... pour it in before you fill up!! I do this for EVERY tank. It increases your gas mileage, power and keeps your fuel system clean. Great ****.

jweather73

Sounds to me like part of the problem is in fact dirty carb linkages and/or the insides. Cleaning the carb inside and out may help resolve it.

Good luck!

85rotarypower

The throttle doesn't stick anymore, problem solved. But I'm in Canada. They stoped selling MMO in Canada a while ago. I can't get it. I will try the steam clean thing though.

85rotarypower

Ok, this thread ain't gettin much for answers, but I will give an update. I did a compression check, and compression is actually pretty good for the age of the engine. 100 psi on front rotor and 90 psi on rear. This is on an engine with 271 000 KM (about 200 000 miles) on it. I think its pretty good and that almost, just almost leads me to believe that the engine was rebuilt at some point in its life.