cruiser

I use 98 octane gas, but I read there is some difference in the standards so I think this is your 93octane gas. My mods are in the sig (for now, will change a bit in short future). I installed ProfecB the simplest way - on the wastegate actuator only.

Only problem was getting the cable for the ProfecB solenoid into the cabin, and for boost I T-ed into the boost gauge hose. Tuning it is a matter of 5mins.

I dynoed at 284hp/260tq on MAHA LPS system (which has a retarder system, showing even lower hp figures then mustang dyno which shows lower hp opposed to dyno dynamics).

overkill

pretty nice nubers, I dyno'ed at 277hp/243tq, with the below mods minus the hks. Once I get the Mp on with the boost controller I'll take a trip back to the rollers. Happy to hear that the install and tuning seems straight forward. Like I said before, once my darn springs become available, I'll let you know. BTW that your GF in your sig?

1point3liter

Back when I had twins it always took me just under an hour to pull them off and clean up.

DamonB

That's nice to hear as I'm pulling mine in a couple weeks. I removed the turbos before when I installed the motor so I shouldn't have any stud problems as I assembled them all with anti-seize. I know I can remove the airbox, airpump and y-pipe in less than 30 mins. I can't see how I could possibly spend more than another hour and a half or so removing the downpipe, heat sheilds and turbo studs.


"I can't see how I could possibly spend more than another hour and a half or so removing the downpipe, heat sheilds and turbo studs." <== Those may become famous last words

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Self-fullfilled prophecy is usually born from bad kharma! Make sure you take your time!

cruiser

Springs got shipped out for me today from R1TT forum member
Yes, that is my gf

overkill

Good for you.. on both accounts take it easy.

the ancient words

so how much longer did it really take?

the ancient words

what's amazing is how the INTENSE heat of a turbocharged rotary corrodes and degrades the cast iron manifold until it cracks and basically falls apart

may as well call Pettit and order up one of these

the ancient words

these cars really are a never ending money pit

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

I would not attempt to weld the crack unless you're really sure of what you're doing with castings. The cracks in these manifolds are a result of extreme thermal stresses on complex and uneven cross sections of casting. Even if welded, it will continue to try to crack in the same area--problem is that a weld will often precipitate more cracks.

To do it properly, the crack should be drilled at the end to prevent lengthening, the casting preheated and the welding done with the correct NI rod for the parent (some testing will be required to determine this) use either stick or TIG. Weld only for short periods of time to limit the heat and peen the weld area immeadiately (while still glowing--takes 2 people) following each weld operation using a pneumatic needle descaler or peening device. Let cool to preheat temp; you will need to repeat several times to complete the weld. You will then have to grind to get your sealing surface flat again. This is not a five minute operation!

IF YOU OR YOUR WELDER ARE NOT WILLING TO PAY THIS LEVEL OF ATTENTION TO DETAIL IN THE REPAIR--DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WELD IT. Better off to leave it alone. An improper repair will just cause more cracks to occur. Do not attempt to braze this either.

What I would recommend that you do is to go in from the turbine (inlet) side and put a small, say 1/8" radius only on the edge that leads into the valve. This will help the high velocity gasses make the turn into wastegate when it opens and will substantially increase the capacity of the valve. Notice I said small radius... A small raduis will not affect flow into the turbine when the valve is closed and it will still improve performance.

Additionally, I would NOT recommend any extreme porting on a casting subjected to this much stress. Otherwise you will weaken it and/or change the stress patterns which could result in new failure points. It is okay to debur and dress certain stress risers or areas that could provide the origin for a crack, but at this point in its life, it has been thoroughly heat cycled, so if it hasn't cracked by now it's probably not going to.

the ancient words

great post, speed....makes sense to me, although this is the first time I have read this

DamonB

Once the car was on stands I had the turbos off in less than a couple hours and that was taking my time and inspecting a lot of things. I spent another couple hours replacing studs, chasing holes and installing a few Helicoils into the exhaust manifold. It's honestly not a bad job, just takes some time.