Please someone help me, My car has been in shop after shop for three years, after about 20k it is still not fixed and is in another shop. It has been to several rotary specialist shops but no one can seem to figure it out. Please help!!!! Here is the problem. The car starts fine and idles fine, once you put it in gear it doesnt want to idle and tries to die, once you cut it off it doesnt want to restart. Could someone give me all the ideas you can possibly think of as my mechanic that has it know has done everything he can think of. Has anyone else had this problem or ever heard of this? Out of all the people I have talked to no one seems to have ever heard of this. Please once again help me! Not to be begging but I havent drove the car in three years and have close to 60k in it. I know there has to be someone out there that can help it would be greatly appreciated.

 

what has the mechanic done????

For that much money he should have replaced just about the whole car. It sounds like a transmition problem to me or a clutch problem whats he replaced? to get an idea of what its not.

 

Where are you located?

 

For 20k there should be an all new engine, wiring, fuel system, ECU, and ignition under the hood.

Kinda hard to be the mechanic who CAN'T get it to run right.

Dave

 

So the gearbox is somehow causing the car to stall,,, wonder if it could be anything due to the neutral switch (what transmission has it got manual or auto). (maybe the neutral switch is shorting out when put into gear)
When you start the car and it idles fine can you gas it and it will rev up fine???

Maybe the gearbox is completely knackered inside and when you try to engage a gear its acting like a brake on the engine??

 

that's what I was thinking. After $3k spent I would have been saying to just replace the entire engine, harness, and ECU

 

Is it an auto or a manual? In the factory service manual it says that this problem is caused by the idle air control valve.

I hope you didn't really spend 20k - if so, I'd be reviewing the work tickets and either demanding my money back, or suing the shops that you spent the money at.

-Charlie

 

Well, if i had have known i would spend 20k and it still not be fixed, I would have just got a new engine. Each shop has charged me around 3500-7500 basically to tell me I cant figure it out and it still be doing the same thing. I know the computer has been replaced, all the vac lines were checked,bov,mapsensor,o2sensor, it has newley rebulit turbos with less than 100 miles on them, it has a mid pipe, downpipe, apexi gt spec exhaust, blitz sus intake.The car is an automatic.I will try to find out what all else he has checked. I took it first to the mazda delearship and they wouldnt even look at it because it had aftermarket parts on it. Any ideas? each shop said that the bill was for parts and labor, but made me pay even though it wasnt fixed.

 

Same thing I was thinking.

 

The car is an automatic, and nobody has rebuilt or replaced the transmission yet? You seem to have found the least competent shops in the country. Please tell us who has worked on your car, so we'll know to avoid them.


Have you tried to keep the car from stalling by shifting into gear at 2-4k rpm? It sounds like the stall converter and/or the transmission's computer aren't doing their job.

For your own benefit, read this: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automa...ansmission.htm

-s-

 

Where are you located? The FSM says it is the idle air control valve if your car stalls when shifting from N or P to a D.

-Charlie

 

i had a problem close to yours it was a tranny issue i some how broke the two lines under the car and almost ran it completly dry

 

what city you at? if your inhouston i can look at it for you, at my dealer, there's 3 of us that can help you find this problem.


Los

i'll check with my other 2 guys to help you out, i'd check that idle air controller.

 

2 things we know of is tranny over filled, can cause it, or torque converter locked up. next thing is idle air controller, i'd check the fluid, check/change iac controller, then torque converter. in that order. but if your mechanic can't figure it out, take it somewhere else. =-)


Los

 

The tranny sensor wiring is very prone to breaking.

It would help to know what mods/ecu the car has, as well as the components that have been replaced.

Dave

 

the idle control valve has been replaced. I will check these other suggestions. If you have any other ideas please let me know. I am located in Arkansas, so thats half my problem. Rx-7 heaven had it first and did a lousy job.

 

Make sure you have good compression (when mine got weak, it would stall when put in D or R......check to make sure the air cond. compressor, air pump and power steering pulleys turn free and are not binding......check the idle control solenoid (it is supposed to increase idle when the transmission is engaged) the manual will have more details.....
Just some thoughts from someone who has been there....
Allen

 

It really sounds like a low compression motor, so you need to check it.
Need more data..

What is the idle when it is cold? Is the AWS still installed?

What is the compression numbers?

Are the injectors recently serviced?

How do you get it re-started once it has run and died?

 

Where at in Arkansas are you? I live in Maumelle right outside of Little Rock. I knew there was a reason I didn't trust any of the shops in this area. If your close by I can try to help you. Besides RX7 Heaven, where else have you taken it? I didn't think mechanic shops in this area would even touch the rx7.

 

Have it trailered to Gotham Racing in Wautaga, TX. Not that far from AK

Not trying to be smart but if I spent $20K on a problem that no one seem to able to fix the car would be sold already.