WNEC98

iTrader: (2)

The car warms up normally (as far as I know) if it is stationary or in traffic but as soon as I hit the hwy the temp drops on the linearized temp gauge to "C" (22 Ohm resistor should read 250F at "H") I am in the process of converting to Evans so I am running 100% Sierra at the moment. (don't know if that's the cause). I would suspect my linearization but the oil temp gauge (hooked in below the oil filter) also reads rather low on the hwy ( 70C ). I have replaced the thermostat, which I checked to make sure was functioning correctly. I also double checked the linearized temp gauge went to "H" when hooked to the 22Ohm resistor.

Mods: Vac hoses, DP, Pettit IC, M2 intake, Halman manual Boost Control (not that they are necessary with the car running this cold), removed all auto warm up, removed TB coolant, oil temp, boost gauge


Any help would be GREATLY appreciated

scratchjunkie

i had a problem like this and it turned out the thermostat was stuck open.

WNEC98

iTrader: (2)

I was suspicious of that also so I just pulled it out and it's closed. Dropped it in a pot of boiling water and it opened up. I personally like to think that I did such a fantastic job sealing the IC duct to the IC that I am over-cooling the intake but realistically I'm sort of lost.

RTS3GEN

Do you have a 180 thermostat? Or are you running a 170? Lower temp thermostat will let the water temp get colder. Check the thermostat you have and see what temp it says. Convert to Farenheit if its in C. I used to run a modified 165 thermostat and it sucked in winter, I'd put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to keep from freezing.
Art

DaveW

Did you modify your thermostat by drilling any additional holes so water could bypass it? That would make it run cold under low load on the freeway and in cool weather. Is it a Mazda thermostat? Generic ones have caused problems.

IIRC, the linearization makes the gauge read cold up to ~165F. At ~176F it should be about in the middle. So it wouldn't take much in the way of the calibration being off or the coolant being slightly cool for it to read cold.

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

I also did the linearized temp gauge mod.

At 81-82 C the gauge reads just a notch above the "COLD" mark (2nd from the bottom).

At 105 C it's around the 2/3rds up the scale.

I ended up turning the Calibration **** to the max. With the Cal resistor it's now off the scale, but prior to that the gauge would hardly register at normal operating temp (81-84 C).

I do think it's cool to have the stock temp gauge so sensitive that as the temps rise I can see my thermostat open & temps drop again

BTW.......I used my PFC for the temps quoted.

My point is that I don't think your car is running too cold, but rather that your gauge just isn't registering until a much higher temp.

Now, is it a bad think that my gauge isn't "calibrated" to accurately show 250 F?

I don't think so. To me it's more relevant to show the normal operating temp range & know that "HOT" means 230F.