Snook

iTrader: (12)

Ok the car idled fantastic and then....

then I blocked off the AWS with 2 block off plates and rerouted the coolant so it doesnt go through the throttle body any more

moved the blow off valve, put a better block off plate on the double throttle (the previous may have been leaking)

added magnecore 10mm plug wires

thats all I really did the idle used to be something under 1000 and hold real solid

now the idle is ~1800 when I start it up and stays there
sometimes its 1600 or 1400 a little bit after. Other times it fluctuates between 700-1100 back and forth but when I turn on the a/c it settles to ~1000 but then a minute later it may start again with the fluctuating even if the a/c is on. If the car has been warmed up and I shut it off and come back 15 minutes later and drive it the idle is almost perfect ~800 and stays like that the entire time im driving but may start to do the fluctuating thing again....

I have the pfc commander and datalogit please let me know of any changes I can make to fix this because it is REALLY annoying and which of the things I did above caused the messed up idle. I want a 875 idle all of the time solid.

thanks guys

saiyan

iTrader: (1)

throttle cable? or maybe you forgot to put something back....

teamstealth

well, it sounds like an electrical component that responds to elect. load like a/c or lights. My guess is your ISC is starting to malfunction.

What i did to fix my idle that bounced between 2500-3k everytime i turned on the a/c or lights, is I just removed EVERYTHING that controls idle and just adjusted it with that air bleed screw. Now the car has a 650rpm idle when its cold, and a perfect 900 when warm.

-Zach

Edit: list of the things off the top of my head that can control idle:
ISC
AWS
Air bleed screw
Screw on the BOTTOM of the TB
ACV
Waxrod assembly

highspeeddubbin

did you pull the power off the battery when you did the mods. if so i believe your pfc has to relearn the idle. when i bought my car the p/o killed the battery so i put in a new one. the idle was all over the place, so i did the idle procedure for 15 mins each (15 idle, 15 idle w/ defrosters, 15 idle w/ A/C) and this fixed my problem completely

Snook

iTrader: (12)

ok guys once again I really appreciate the help this is great

I'll go through your replies one by one

saiyan:
When I first did these changes the idle was at 3000 after I was done!! So I didn't know what happened. Then I did adjust the throttle cable and the idle is doing what its doing now. At Idle the throttle cable is loose it is not pulling the throttle plates open at all so this cant be it. It also wouldnt explain the fluctuating idle sometimes it would only explain the really high idle other times. Also, I don't think I forgot to connect anything because I've been to the 1/4 mile track since and I trapped really high


teamstealth: its not very likely that something broke at the exact time that I was working on the car. The idle stuff really confuses me a lot...I dont have the acv or the aws in the car....everything is blocked off. Would removing the TB coolant have ANYThing to do with this?

highspeeddubbin: yes the battery has been dissconnected since then and I reloaded my map into the pfc through the datalogit. So I need to leave the car on for 15 minutes idling normally, then 15 minutes with defroster and 15 a/c all in a row? 45 min of idling?? Also, do I need the air on level 4 and what temperature cold or hot?? BTW this started happening over 1 month ago so wouldnt the car have learned the idle in over 1000 miles of driving?

thanks everyone

teamstealth

The TB coolant line actually runs through the Waxrod assembly. What that does is props open the TB's a little bit to raise the cold idle, and once the coolant warms up that wax pellet, it allows the TB to close fully and lower the warm idle. However, this couldnt be it because its an electrical issue if it involves a/c, airpump, lights, etc etc. So i would do the "relearning" ordeal for the PFC. And yeah its unlikely something broke at the EXACT time u were working on it, but in my case, it went progressively bad. I.e. i had a bad idle for 2 weeks, then it would stop, and reappear a month later. but better to check everything ya kno?

-Zach

Snook

iTrader: (12)

so if it were the coolant tb thing my idle would be normal after the car warmed up?

what should I do after the relearning thing and how do I do it exactly? ive driven the car for like a month now wont it learn it or its gotta sit there and idle without driving?? thanks man!!!

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Ahem TTT

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yep, that should only affect when the car is cold. Once it's warmed up, it shouldn't matter.

It doesn't sound like your care needs to relearn the idle. Have you checked your TPS?

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=170731

Snook

iTrader: (12)

hmmm I had seen that thread when damian was first doing it....VERY good thread

we can eliminate the plug wires, the TB coolant, relocating the bov im sure

so do you think since I took off the 2 AWS things this threw everything off? Also maybe that not so good block off on the throttle body was leaking air?... but most likely not

Also, my Tps connection doesnt click like it did on my last car...this one you gotta just pull off it slides off. Maybe this has something to do with it? But I remember last time when I forgot to connect it the revs were floating during shifting and that doesnt really happen now.

any one else? that adjusting the tps looks pretty involved for now

teamstealth

i wouldnt worry about the BOV, or the block off plates, because either of those would leak a constant, steady amount of air. So you would just have a high idle, not hunting. TPS sounds like ur best bet.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

but the question is why did it do that? it cant figure out that I added 2 block off plates and removed the aws?

I dont see how that effects the idle with electrical load and makes it bounce and be really high but then other times perfectly normal!

does this happen to everyone after they add block off plates?