MontegoRX7

Here is a pic for those of you that requested one. I have finals for the rest of the week, so I will not be able to get around to making them, but I should have a few done over the weekend. Let me know what you think. Price is prolly gonna be 40 shipped for the set, 30 for just the boost controller. The boost controller is on the left, the pre spool controller is on the right.

Works exactly like a Dawes Device, but uses 1/4 inch nipples, and has a thumb screw for adjustment. It also comes with a locking nut, but It is not shown in the pic.

EviLPeNeviL

iTrader: (2)

Looks good to me.

Could you please explain how you could adjust the psi by using that? Since there's nothing digital/electronic about it how can you actually know how much boost you're controlling?

Thanks.

-Dan

MontegoRX7

Sinch I only know how to make em an attachment, here is the reply with the pic.

MontegoRX7

You need a boost gauge to tell how much boost you are running, and to note any changes. If you own an FD, you need to get one. It is one of the first things I would do. But to adjust the boost, you simply turn the thumb screw. Turning it clockwise will increase boost and turning it counterclockwise will decrease it. The pre spool controller changes how much exhaust is diverted to spool the second turbo, so you can control spiking at transition, or spool it a little more if your transition is slow (happens here at altitude a lot)

adam c

iTrader: (2)

The part on the right is a home depot needle valve with 2 pieces of 1/4 inch brass tubing. The tubing is about 1 1/4 inches on each side. Total cost $6. Total time to make it about 10 minutes. The part on the left does the exact same thing as the one on the right. There is no reason to make them different.

I have installed two needle valves to control boost and prespool in my car. It takes a little adjusting to get them both right. This is a good mod in my opinion.

Here is the link to learn what to buy, how to make, install, and adjust it.

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm

I don't think MontegoRX7 should be profitting from someone elses work!

MontegoRX7

Umm actually the one on the left is a ball and spring type boost controller. Works EXACTLY like the Dawes Device. Maybe you should educate yourself before you slam someone elses post. A ball and spring type builds boost faster because it does not open the waste gate until a certain pressure is reaced, equal to the spring tension. A needle valve simply sends a lower pressure signal to the wastegate, leaving it open as soon as you get on boost. You are right, the pre spool controller is just a needle valve and is only about 6 bucks. Did you also notice that the price increase to add that was only 10 bucks? Maybe someone would rather have everything put together and not have to go hunting pieces down. But youare definatly wrong on the boost controller. Def not just a needle valve. Educate yourself.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

My apologies. Your post does not indicate which one works as a dawes device, or if they both work that way.

Boost can be controlled very easily with 2 needle valves.

MontegoRX7

Thank you, sorry I kinda got worked up. This was a continuance of a previous post. Boost can be easily controlled with 2 needle valves, but using a ball and spring valve, it is unaffected by changes in temperature or atmospheric pressure, and builds boost faster. I get 10 psi by 2500 RPMs.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Didn't see the other thread

I'll have to see where my boost reaches its max. I know that it comes up to 12 pretty fast.

EviLPeNeviL

iTrader: (2)

MontegoRX7 I am pretty interested in buying a set of the home made MBC from you......

I PMed you........

-Dan

MontegoRX7

Check your PM's, I replied. I am testing an idea I had on how to close the wastegate during shifts, to reduce lag between shifts. I have made the change, and will test on friday to see which design is most effective. I will probably have some units up for sale on monday or tuesday if anyone is interested.

LAracer

MontegoRX7: What's your altitude there? Do you know what your boost pattern was with the stock pills? I had a strange boost pattern: 12-5-6 (I live at 7000ft), and I'm looking for data points to confirm that I'm "normal". I also have late transition (5500rpm instead of 4500).

I corrected my boost pattern with 2 needle valves, but you say the Dawes device is "unaffected by changes in atmospheric pressure". Would this be better for me than a needle valve since I'm at altitude?

Conv.WS6

I understand the needle valve, and the ball and spring valve, but what I'm confused by is that the ball and spring valve is similiar to a check valve. So when the pressure in the manifold releases between shifts say.
What releases the pressure in the Wastegate actuator?
My guess is the other line that goes through the Wastegate solenoid, but I just wanted to clarify it.
For those of us with the Non sequential mod only the ball and spring valve is needed. Does anyone have a list of homedepot parts I need for the ball and spring valve to be assembled?
thanks for the all the info, and the price seems right since you are assembling them. Good luck

MontegoRX7

LAracer: My boost pattern with a downpipe was 12-5-9 at altitude on stock pills. The ball and spring is not affected by CHANGES in atmosperic pressure, so it is not going to be any better at altitude than a needle valve. The only time when the whole changes thing will be better is say a cold day and a hot day. With a needle valve your boost would change a little bit, but with a ball and spring valve it will remain more constant.

Conv.WS6: Yes, it acts like a check valve. To relieve pressure in the line when off boost, many people use a small bleed hole on that side of the ball. This means that no air is bled while building boost, so there is no delay in spool, but pressure can be relieved when off boost. This hole is optional. The one I have on my car now does not have this hole, and seems to work fine. I am going to switch it with one that has a bleed hole on friday to see if there is any improvement. If you search online you can find plans for making one of these, the problem is finding the parts. It was an adventure in a half for me, so thats why I figured people would pay to save some hassle. Plus, then you have to figure out which spring to use, and find a T that has about the same diameter so the spring does not bind.

LAracer

Thanks MontegoRX7 .