what size gram lights are those? offset etc...
Do they make thoise in silver or polished?

 

aren't his coolant caps on the wrong places? Shouldn't the presurized one be on the Ast and the other one be on the filler neck??

 

Amen! I'm often torn between whether or not I should drive my car. I bought it with about 38K on it in September, and it now already has 46K! And for the most part, it stays garaged and I make my trips to work in my Tacoma (my first two reliabilty mods...house w/garage and primary car).

At first I was thinking, "cool 95 w/fairly low miles could be worth something nice in the future." But there are just too many awesome days in Austin where I almost feel as guilty NOT driving the car as driving it (although I might blow my ears out if I don't turn down the music when I'm riding in it).

I'm probably 99.987% more likely to jump in my car for no reason and run down the quickly accessible open highway road near the house if I walk in the garage and see it staring at me. With those sumptous curves, and ergonomic jet fighter cockpit.

I just can't write enough about how great it feels to run around town in this car...I could go on and on...but I'll stop for now.

Enjoy 'em (in whatever way works for you)!

 

I'm just saying the plate is not in the stock location. The stock location holds the plate in front of the bumper not in front of the opening. The stock bracket mounted correctly will fix your problem.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RX-187
[B]I wish I could do that but there are many envious people out there that do like to do harm to your car.
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BTW If you don't mind, when was your engine rebuilt?



My motor was rebuilt at around 110k. Still running strong. Just wanna get more stuff done.

 

yes the caps are switched

 

Hey Guys/Gals,

Just wanted to add that I picked up my '94 with 11,800 original miles. It's a silver stone PEP with red leather. It was a great find!!!

 

re: the coolant caps.
after replacing my entire cooling system, i had it pressure tested at a shop which specializes in rotaries only. they suggested switching the caps and going to a higher pressure cap also. so far, the cooliing system has been faultless although it does get hotter when i sit in traffic on hot days but still within safe limits.

hey silver stone - can you post some pics. dont worry about hijacking the thread. were on a roll. the more the better.

 

[QUOTE]Oh and I am insanely jealous of the black one above wish my black paint looked that good.

****** -
tell you a secret. when i got the car, the paint was average looking. what i did was spend a few hours every week rubbing out the finish. the product i use and i feel its the best ive found is "3m finesse it". it can be found at most autobody paint shops. heres the hitch though - one quart goes for $30. the quart goes a long ways. use 100% cotton terry towels. if your finish is really bad, you may have to use a courser compound prior to hitting it with finesse it. i do it all by hand. you know wax on - wax off. what you see in my finish is a result of about 20 hours of rubbing and buffing and still no wax yet. once i feel the finish is perfect with no swirls then i will wax it.
chuck

 

Yeah how do you get swirls out of the finish? The doors have a few and it looks odd sometimes.

 

I don't think Washington State requires front plates, but some cities (Redmond is one) are more likely than others to give you grief over it. I've driven my '94 RX-7 without a front plate since 1997 and only been told once (by a Redmond cop) that I should get a front plate, and then only casually.

 

a3dcadman thanks gonna give it a shot tomorrow hope it turns out like yours did then that would rock.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by a3dcadman

Quote:

Oh and I am insanely jealous of the black one above wish my black paint looked that good.

****** -
tell you a secret. when i got the car, the paint was average looking. what i did was spend a few hours every week rubbing out the finish. the product i use and i feel its the best ive found is "3m finesse it". it can be found at most autobody paint shops. heres the hitch though - one quart goes for $30. the quart goes a long ways. use 100% cotton terry towels. if your finish is really bad, you may have to use a courser compound prior to hitting it with finesse it. i do it all by hand. you know wax on - wax off. what you see in my finish is a result of about 20 hours of rubbing and buffing and still no wax yet. once i feel the finish is perfect with no swirls then i will wax it.
chuck

I use 3M's Finesse it also. Good stuff, but there is more than one type.

You can do it by hand (OMG that takes a long time) or with a machine. Either way you've got to be careful. For a faded car you'll want to use a rotary buffer. Don't apply a lot of pressure, paint will come off fast especially on the edges of fenders, hoods, etc. After your done with that you'll want to use an orbital buffer to remove the swirl marks the rotary buffer left. If your paint isn't that bad then just start with a orbital buffer.

Using too much pressure either by hand or by machine will leave deep scratches in the paint.

And just like you said, you've got to wax it when your done. Again don't use to much pressure or you will end up with terry cloth scratches in the paint again...

The paint looks great btw!

 

Do I apply this with a rotary buffer or do I apply it by hand? If that is the case I need to buy a rotary buffer any good brands or types I should look at? From what I read he said to not wax it right away but to wait to wax. Should I wax immediately after Im done with th finesse it? Wanna get the paint looking perfect again.

 

hey sparkey,
i do mine by hand, no machine and dont apply wax for weeks until im satisfied with the finish. its a lot of work but you can see the results from the pics posted.

 

turbojeff is right, if the paint is reallyl bad start with a buffer, be very careful of edges. it takes nothing to go thru the paint. i dont normally recommend a buffer because it takes practice to use it right and i would hate for someone to ruin their paint because of my recommendation. i have never screwed up my finish doing it by hand, but i have blown thru the paint on a few edges while learning to use a buffer.

jeff, after seeing your pics of your car, i should have figured you were using finesse it, since your finish was very glassy looking also. the stuff is great and does provide very quick results.

sparkey,
good luck, definitely would like to check out your before and after pics.

 

Going to get the stuff today. Hopefully I dont ruin anything.

 

You know the way I learned was buffing an old red Toyota truck. I wet sanded it with 1000 grit, buffed and detailed the heck out of it. It turned out great and the neighbors thought I was nuts for spending so much time polishing this old truck. The cool thing is I made a few mistakes rubbing through the paint on the edges. It didn't matter though since I only paid $700 for the truck.

So if you have an older car at your disposal try polishing that first. It doesn't even have to be yours, try it on a friends beater... Don't try it on a car with peeling clear coat, nothing will bring those back. Try to do it on a car without clear. The way to tell is use a little wax or maybe finesse on a rag and see if the body color comes off on the rag. If it does then it isn't clear coated.

 

To me, a car that's not driven is a waste. However, not everyone sees the same way I do. Your cars (BEAUTIFUL, I might add), do with them what you choose.

 

I know I have a clear coat on my car and I know that it is peeling in a few spots so knowing this now I will avoid those spots with the finnesse to get it back to brilliant black.

 

Well let someone not drive their FD, cover it in the garage, baby it around, etc, etc. Then after they've preserved it for 20yrs you buy it and drive it.

It goes on everyday... That is why in the end the few survivors are called "antiques" and are worth some $$.

30yrs from now people will be paying big bucks for stock cats and airpumps in good condition because everyone threw them away now.

 

About two years ago I bought a stock muffler off a guy in Connecticut who recently purchased FD had 300 miles on it. I never saw the car, but the exhaust was so perfect I would have never suspected it had been used if he hadn't of told me. He already had another FD, so I can't imagine the mileage is much higher now.
The other RX7 he owned had all of the Peter Farell goodies on it. The 300 miler was going to have all of the Petit racing goodies on it. I think the guy had some coin.

 

They do come in silver with a polished lip. They are 18", I don't know the offset. You can visit the Volk Wheels website and they will have the offset that is correct for the FD.

 

Updated Pictures! Lots of Pictures so beware in advance!

I had to show off my babies! They are so nice!

 

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Eleanor Wheels!