I see some familiar names swapping technical positions here
Carlos you beat me to the question. RexU.K, help me out, I'm not seeing how a bias adjuster will *help* braking. Will it not shift additional braking to the rears to even out the bias from the overperforming fronts. This will be better than an "unbiased" setup but... If this is the case the OE rears are now going to be woefully inadequate, i.e., overworked rears and underowrked fronts. Similarly you are removing braking capability from the fronts which was the reason for big fronts in the first place? I just don't understand.
Also about the factory master, I dunno if you would call it adequate or not. I presume you've done the calc to ratio the total piston bore/size between the OE front calipers and the 6 piston AP's? The 6 piston AP's use what size piston....must be kinda small. Either that or you prefer long pedal throws. I do however think you are much better off doing the latter of your suggestions triple masters with remote reserviors...yummy.
The setup *looks* fabulous but if you were REALLY serious about a trackable performance car with stellar brakes the drilled jobbies are a big no no
Of course if you are building the flasy show car more power to ya...they do look delicious and are sure to make the girlies who know men with big...umm...brakes swoon.
Crispy
- has cracked drilled rotors in *ONE* track weekend

 

Crispy & Carlos, you guys just have more tact than me.

 

True. I just learned in another thread that you can't make your engine detonate with water injection, even if you tried. In addition, if you mix a little alcohol with the water, you have all the benefits of high octane race gas without the huge price...

I suppose now we'll learn that a 6-piston caliper on a 13.0" rotor will stop more quickly than a 4-piston caliper on a 13.0" rotor?

Personally, I consider 6-piston (and 8-piston, and 12-piston, and 23-piston) calipers a waste of money. It's a case of "look, my amplifier goes to 11, and that's one louder than 10" syndrome. No matter how many pistons you have in your calipers, if you have enough leverage to lock up the rotor -- which even the stock system is capable of -- then you've got more than enough brake.

The real benefit of big brake kits is the increase in swept area and mass of larger diameter rotors which allow the system to shed heat more quickly. The benefit is reduced brake fade from repeated hard stops from high speeds. However, even a 42-piston, 18.0" rotor brake system won't make a car stop any quicker from legal speeds than the stock braking system will.

Given enough leverage to lock the rotors, braking distance is totally dependent on vehicle weight, vehicle speed, road surface, and the tire compound and contact patch, with the only exception being the ability of the driver to modulate the brakes sufficiently to avoid lock-up if the car lacks ABS. Not the number of pistons in the calipers.

Furthermore, with modern brake pads, a plain rotor is every bit as good as a drilled or slotted rotor. Better for track use, in fact, because it eliminates the sharp edges where stress risers can form from uneven heating, eventually causing cracks. No modern pad requires crossdrilling for out-gassing or slotting for deglazing. These days, the addition of slots or holes to a brake rotor are purely cosmetic, not performance.

What else can we learn today?

 

Yes,if you leave the valve right open you have overworked rears thats what the adjustment is for.I have the same set up on three other 323 gt-r's they are all stock and cope well with it.
Were the drilled discs you cracked in one race ap's? and you didn't mention what pads you were using(major contributor)full metallic maybe? if you looked at the picture you'll see that the drilled holes are not as frequent as in some other discs.Ap have lessened these for longetivity and have added more vanes for strength and additional cooling.
The ap rotors undergo a 3 day heat treating process,they are not shitty rotors.
Having said this i have already said previously that the drilled rotors do crack quicker than the slotted ones or for that matter plain rotors.I also said that the drilled rotors look sooooo much nicer and for cosmetic reasons i chose them over the slotted ones,so you f@ckin scientists are not tellin me anything i don't already now.
You dont need to parrott on about Oh but if your going to use them for show then its ok.
Right now the car isn't even on the road probably won't be for at least another six months,and the caliper pistons are three different diametres leading edge smallest,trailing edge largest.They are not huge pistons.
If when it comes to tracking the car and i feel the set up is inadequate i will upgrade as necessary,rear kit, triple masters,whatever,
but right now it is not a major concern.
It costs us in England a **** load more to build our cars than you in the states,a **** load more.So i have already spent about $20,000 on it in the last five months,i am not in a rush to blow more cash on the brakes right now,i have more pressing things to finish,like get the lump back in.
Anyway,at least we agree on one thing they do look gooood! and thats the reason i posted the picture,for everyones pleasure, not to start a f@ckin technical shoot out,so time out,cause its past my bed time.

 

So you see thats why ap racing dont do anything more than a six pot.

 

Don't even bother with these guys. Your brakes look nice and they will stop your car. It's too bad that you can't even post a simple pic of your brakes without flamage.

 

AP Racing makes 8-piston calipers also. The number of pistons is more a function of packaging than of performance.

 

What flamage? The original poster started giving faulty reasons as to why drilled rotors were desirable. Several knowledgable track guys corrected him.

Yes, the brakes look very nice and they'll work very well on the street. No one's arguing that... The debate (not flaming) started when the track merits of the system came up.

They are nice brakes, rex uk. I'm sure they'll work better than stock on the track and if you are happy with them, that's all that matters. The track guys have merely pointed out that it is not the ideal track set-up.

 

I should clarify that my post was made in response to the following statement, not as a flame of rex u.k.

"Stopping power is awesom [sic] with the 6 pot calipers." - Fish

 

Jimbo, put the chum back in the bucket.

Rex U.K., those are some great looking brakes. Enjoy then in good speed!

 

I see my wry sense of sarcasm is lost on some
Rex, the brakes do look great. AP's have always been a honey of caliper, why I have some of mine very own. Porsche uses xdrilled calipers on their hiperf cars so what the hey. More power to you. Just be careful with the bias though...seriously. The amount of mismatch front to rear might be to much even on the street. Braking distances might even be longer than the stock setup. Hit the brakes too hard in the wet and and it might be spindarella time. As for my cracked rotors - fronts were Brembo units, rears were Powerstops (not the best but far from the worst either) Both in the stock sizes using Hawk 9012 Blue compound pads. Oh and I've cracked the slotted rotors in the rear too Why? Too much front brake which I believe caused the rears to become overworked
Am I babbling? Yeah Ok I'll shut up. How about this:
"Schweet brakes dude" And I'll leave well enough alone.
Regards,
Crispy
- and yes I happen to be a f@ckin scientist of the nuclear variety

 

 

SWEET!!!!!

 

Guess what guys,all this rabbling on about the brakes has turned me into a rotorite from an exhaust leak,not bad hehe and Jimlab i was refering to ap's formula(road orientated)kits,they only go up to six pots,my mistake.

 

APs has some nice kits...

I have 3 of their kits myself...

Although not all were made by APs.

The RX7 one was made by N-tech
S4 one was by AP themselves,
Cosworth was by Graham Goode Racing