I found a pfs box for sale, but it is the gold one. Isn't that the old one? I thought the purple one was the latest. How much should I pay?

 

How much should you pay? How about $100..... then pay the $$ to EFI Systems to get it upgraded to the newer version.

DO NOT run the Gold box - it has trouble controlling boost and overboosting car be very expensive on an FD.....

 

I JUST INSTALLED THE PFS PURPLE (LATEST ONE FROM PETER FARRELL) I JUST PUT IT YESTERDAY WITH THE COMMANDER. IM NOW RUNNING DP, CB AND PFS. THHE PFS CNTROLS BOOST WELL AT THE LOW AND MEDIUM SETTINGS. I HAVEN'T TESTED IT OUT AT THE HIGH LEVEL, AND DONT TO FOR A LIL WHILE UNTIL IM SURE I WONT DAMAGE ANYTING. ALTHOUGH I DO HEAR GOOD STUFF ABOUT THE PURPLE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE AN AUTO, BUT I HEAR THE GOLD ISN'T TO GOOD OF A COMPUTER.

 

I'm running an older gold box and using a profec B for boost control. the setup works fine and the profec holds the boost perfect.

 

Hey silver93, I have the same box can you send me some numbers for LL ML HL WOT ect?

 

Check with the previous owner, but the injectors might've been upgraded to larger ones.

 

Does the return fuel line have a fuel pressure regulator?
Do you have anyway to tell what the fuel pressure is?
And is the PMS reading boost/vacuum (III)?

 

PMS monitors boost/vacuum when in III (Roman numeral 3). If I remember correctly next to "MP:" (manifold pressure).

Since this was weaklink's thread maybe you should open a new one.

 

Mostin -
yeah, i'll post them
i tried to email you but never got a response -
anyway, i'll post it later today

 

Here are my gold box settings.
I am running PFS intercooler, DP, CB, cold air.
Main cat is stock.
Plugs are BUR9EQPs all the way around.
I usea profec B for boost control, so i don;t know anything about vent learn or boost control with the gold/purple box.

all timing settings are zero unless noted,
Max boost on menu 9 is set for 15 psi. and i keep the profec B at 14 psi. These numnbers are for the "high" setting on the PMC. I don;t have numbers for the low or medium cause i jsut keep it on high all the time, so i never bothered.

Also, my experienec has shown to make all adjustments to the box with the car OFF. Unlike what the manufacturer says about adjusting with the car running, i have found that really SCREWS things up and the car starts running like "****". Also, i have founf that it takes a little time for the ECU to get "adjusted" to new settings. So go slow, make some adjustments, drive around like that for a while, make more adjustments, etc....



idle: -28%

PT settings (menu 2)

setting 2200 4000 6000 7800
low -22% -22% -20% -12%
med -22% -20% -20% -10%
high -18% -14% -12% -4%

max boost settings (menu 6)
all 1psi settings are zero

max boost +6 +8 +18 +20
timing -2 -2 -4 -4

WOT menu - i don;t mess with it.see wade lanham's site for why. It's not necessary. )i think, unless you are using vent learn, which i am not.

My O2 readings are right at .84 with an occasional .86.
I assume that my high end boost is a little rich, but I need to get on a dyno with a wideband for exact tuning.

thats it - i now drive happily (except for the DAMN 3K hesitation) with NO backfiring or popping (even at high speed shifts)

 

Need300z, I have all of the PFS mods plus a Bonez SS downpipe and replacement cat. My car behaves the SAME way, I had all 9's for plugs but recently went back to 2 7's and 2 9's to pass emissions. The backfiring and popping is now less pronounced but is still there. I am going back to the 9's however because I am leery of detonation as I often run 12-15 Lbs. of boost (mid & high setting) and the colder plugs leave some unburned fuel which lubricates the housings and is the cuase of the backfiring and popping as the fuel gets burned further down the exhaust. My car is not is not my daily driver soI can live with this, I guess you can't have a modified car that sounds like a stock one.