jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i have about 1000 bucks to spend on the FD and i am really stuck on what to do: get a powerFC or some nice koni shocks/springs and bushings...

my FD has a stock engine with a downpipe, hiflow cat and catback. suspension is stock... all cooling mods done.
i plan on autocrossing the car so i want the suspension, and the suspension would help it ride a little better and get rid of some small clunks (i probably have a few dead bushings)
but at the same time i'd rather have the increased reliability/potential/functionality of the PFC and commander.

what do you all think i should do?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest the suspension upgrade. For me, suspension changes made one of the biggest (and better) differences in my car visually as well as performance wise. And you won't be confused with a 4x4 if you get some decent lowering springs.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

well, my beef with the shocks/springs is that i'd like to use stock springs with koni yellow shocks, but it will BARELY lower it with the adjustable spring seats. i'd love to get some aftermarket springs, but i dont want the spring rates too harsh.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

Ever thought about a Pettit or M2 used ECU. Usually go for about 300+. Then you could get some suspension mods also. Doesn't seem like a PFC is necessary at this point, unless you plan on modding a lot in the future

Just a thought
Brandon

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The dampers really control the ride quality so your ride will be has harsh as you have the shocks set to... With adjustable shocks, you won't have a ride quality problem using higher spring rates. Also, the first time you take a little more aggressive turn with a lower center of gravity, the smile on your face will remove any ride quality changes out of your mind.

DDagman

iTrader: (3)

I'ver heard many poeple say that you shouldnt run an exhaust like you have (DP, HF cat, CB) and a stock ECU because of the danggers in boost creep and spike. I have also heard of poeple saying that their car only spikes to about 9 or 10 on VERY cold nights. My $0.02 is gog for the suspension. as long as you run a HF cat and not a MP then you should be fine (hope that the weather doesnt go below zero0
-Daniel

rynberg

Who? There's nothing wrong with running those mods on the stock ecu. A boost controller will easily control boost to proper levels. Creep is not a problem with a hiflow cat.

Given the dropping cost of a PFC....I would get a PFC and some Eibach springs. The stock shocks can still handle the Eibach's. Either that, I would get the PFC and save a little more to pick up Konis+Eibachs.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

what kind of dropping cost are we talking?

i only have about 1000 bucks.

RX7LINK

iTrader: (3)

IMO.. i would get the PFC for reliability and save up for a nice set of coilovers instead of buying temp shock and springs that you might end up replacing later... wait.. and get the best mods one at a time..

my .02

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I'm with Rynberg - PFC and Eibach springs, you can do both for a grand. Do some searching on Howard Coleman's username - he highly recommends the Eibachs with stock shocks as a VERY good setup on the FD. The Eibachs lower it "just right" in my opinion, and the handling is fantastic.

Get the best of both worlds and enjoy .

Dale

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

How many miles on your stock shocks? Mine were starting to get bouncy around 120k miles.

Koni shocks set at the lowest spring perch will put the ride height around 25 +- 1/4" measured to the fender lip. Works nicely with the stock springs and a bit more comfy than running them with higher rate springs like the Eibachs or H&Rs.

If your shocks are in good shape, you can buy the PFC for around $700, used Eibachs for about $150, new spring pads for ~$50 (helps eliminate noise; get them from Malloy Mazda) and maybe upper spring perches if you need them (also from Malloy).

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

95k miles on the stock shocks. they are decent, but old and not great.

tough decision... also, where are you all finding these powerFC's for 700 bucks?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

^^FD Newbie here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...10#post6411910
Or used

I'd personally go with the suspension work. You'll derive greater benefits by a nice riding car that doesn't squeak around - especially if autox is the game you want to play. DamonB autox his car very successfully and I believe he is running stock ECU - and Konis with stock springs.

tdazmansFD

iTrader: (1)

I'd go for:
Used PFC: $500
Used Eibach's: 170 ish Shipped
Boost Controller: $25-$400 (Manual or Electronic)
12psi tune on the PFC.

OR: New PFC and Eibach's only.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

please inform me as to where i can find a used PFC for 500 bucks. lol

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Get the PFC first. The cars already handle like go carts.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The FD is already pretty quick in stock form, yet people want to make it quicker. IMO, you get a better bang for the buck with the suspension upgrade:

1. Better handling
2. Lower stance (so it doesn't look like a 4x4)

At 95k miles, its about time for a suspension overhaul.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

whell since you dont need a pfc at the moment since you dont have that many mods to need it go with the suspension trust me mine has gone on me and i bounce like crazy and scrap the lip of the car all the time in Daily driving... and then save up for a pfc.. since im saving up for a suspension at the moment to over a pfc

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

How far do you want to go with your FD in the HP department? My vote would be for a used Pettit ECU (~$300), and the koni/eibach combo. Last year I was running about the same mods as you with a Pettit ECU and ~14psi, and my car was trapping 113mph with a slipping stock clutch and 18x9.5s all around. If you would be content with 300-340rwhp (which is still damn quick), go for the easy route, plug in the ECU, crank the boost a bit and go tear it up. You can have both of what you want within your price range.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

well i bit the bullet and found a decent deal on some used konis w/ stock springs (400 shipped) that only had like 12k miles on them... also spent 300 on some good used turbos (16k miles) and used UIM (mine is cracked)

SO, i spent about 700 on konis and turbos and i'm keeping the rest for brake pads and hopefully some bushings. the plan is to autox in the spring.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

About the autox: what class will you be in?

The ECU, suspension mods, etc will certainly push you out of SS. You may or may not fit into ASP.

If you've never autocrossed before, it won't matter - old guys in renaults will whoop on you - but at some point if you decide to get competitive, putting on aftermarket stuff can put you out of the class where you have the best shot at being competitive. You still won't be beating the fast drivers in the class, but sometimes it's frustrating when you're a beginning driver AND your car is way outgunned in the class.

Dave

Sandro

iTrader: (1)

Suspension/handling work would be my suggestion

- replace bushings if they are shot (with stock ones)
- alignment
- big front swaybar (with David Breslau's mounts and Mazdatrix adjustable end links)

You may want to attend a couple of autox first to become eligible to enroll in Mazdacomp program and be able to buy parts (e.g. bushings) at discount

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Dave,

He is already out of stock class with the DP & high flow cat.

Don't forget to budget for those rear suspension bushings. The set will likely be over $300.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

This is true. But I wouldn't want to see him pushed out of ASP.

Dave

Sandro

iTrader: (1)

Not OE radiator (e.g. Fluidyne) puts you out of ASP already.
I woulnd't worry though. If you run locally, nobody would care.