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Does anyone know where to get these or if someone else makes a similar product now? I'm trying to improve the cooling of my car and having the fans turn on earlier would help. They're showing out of stock an ebay/etc. haven't been any help.
Apparently with an auto -> manual swap done by modifying the auto ECU wiring, a powerFC isn't possible. I think a haltech might be possible, but they don't have PnP connectors for autos so it would probably require rewiring or something.
Cooling on a rotary is pretty important. If that’s the route he wants to go, I’m not sure I’d trust it to a generic Chinese switch for my fans to save a few bucks. While it’s not brain surgery it’s not super easy to access either at the back of the housing and the wiring won’t mate up to the OE plug like the Mazda S5 switch.
Cooling on a rotary is pretty important and I’m not sure I’d trust it to a generic Chinese switch for my fans to save a few bucks. While it’s not brain surgery it’s not super easy to access either at the back of the housing and the wiring won’t mate up to the OE plug like the Mazda S5 switch.
The petit switch uses a spade adapter anyway which was the subject of the thread.
Personally I relocated mine to the side of the housing for easier access. (Air pump side)
The factory mazda connector is VERY prone to corroding. Totally unsealed. By the time I upgraded mine, the connector was totally corroded green.
Those crusty old connectors would likely be the point of failure long before a chinese thermoswitch would.
Apologies I misremembered, it was the coolant level sensor connector which was corroded, not the thermoswitch which has an o-ring on it.
My MAZDA FC switch (not Pettit’s) has been in for close to 20 years and probably over 80k miles. Still performing just fine…as is the connector. I haven’t dug back there recently to look but really doubt there’s any issue with corrosion at the sensor either. If your’s was corroded I doubt it was the connector’s fault. And I’ve never seen a need to relocate it either.
On a stock or mildly modded car that’s been maintained I personally haven’t seen a need for any switch cooler than 96 C.
My MAZDA FC switch (not Pettit’s) has been in for close to 20 years and probably over 80k miles. Still performing just fine…as is the connector. I haven’t dug back there recently to look but really doubt there’s any issue with corrosion at the sensor either. If your’s was corroded I doubt it was the connector’s fault. And I’ve never seen a need to relocate it either.
On a stock or mildly modded car that’s been maintained I personally haven’t seen a need for any switch cooler than 96 C.
While I agree with you that maintaining the OEM location, connector, and wiring is ideal when possible; the FC switch is $80 from atkins before shipping & tax. Quite a bit more than "a few bucks"
If the FC switch was $35 or $40 compared to the $30 petit one it'd probably be a no brainer, but $80 was the cheapest i could find.
These cars are 30 years old, replacing every switch and sensor will be necessary sooner or later and sadly the OEM stuff isn't getting any cheaper. Several thousands of dollars in switches, sensors, relays to keep things OEM. (Not including the NLA stuff!)
I opted for a $10 thermostat and a $10 switch which are functionally identical and (almost) fit right in. Personally I'd rather be a little more diligent about watching my water temps than spend the extra money. I guess everyone has different risk tolerances. Ive had my car much less than 20 years though so maybe my views are warped.
Fortunately it's easy to bypass the switch by jumping the rad fan pin in the diagnostic connector if the $10 chinesium switch were to fail catastrophically.
