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Well, this is a new one. I hopped in for a drive this weekend and found my passenger window decided to stop working. I replaced the drivers side switch last year after my original melted (yes with an expensive OEM replacement). Looks like all the power is from the same source so its not a bad fuse. Any suggestions before I start taking the door apart?
Is the window lock on the main switch on by accident?
If not, my money would be one either one of the switches failing, even though you recently replaced the driver's switch it could be bad again. Is you window speed super slow or ok? While I have sold people power window motors in the past I have never seen one actually fail myself, i have always found the problems to be be related to the switches.
I THINK if the passenger switch is bad/broken it can keep it from working too.
Dale
You are correct Dale - bad contacts on the driver's side (main) switch for the passenger's window OR bad contacts on the passenger side switch itself will bugger up passenger side window operation. See schematic below - there are 2 issues here. Full motor current flows thru the switch contacts (i.e., no relays to take the high current load) and you'll note that the ground return side for the passenger side motor has to flow thru switches on BOTH doors. Same stupid basic design they had on the FC, and as soon as the window regulator mechanisms start getting old, and the grease starts drying up and turning into a solid waxy goo, the mechanical load on the motor goes up substantially, causing them to pull maximum electrical current, and the weak link is the switch contacts which inevitably fail.
You are correct Dale - bad contacts on the driver's side (main) switch for the passenger's window OR bad contacts on the passenger side switch itself will bugger up passenger side window operation. See schematic below - there are 2 issues here. Full motor current flows thru the switch contacts (i.e., no relays to take the high current load) and you'll note that the ground return side for the passenger side motor has to flow thru switches on BOTH doors. Same stupid basic design they had on the FC, and as soon as the window regulator mechanisms start getting old, and the grease starts drying up and turning into a solid waxy goo, the mechanical load on the motor goes up substantially, causing them to pull maximum electrical current, and the weak link is the switch contacts which inevitably fail.
Thanks for confirming Pete. I had the same intuition as Dale but I didn't want to share without confirming.
That stupid main switch got me before though! The lock was on and I thought something broke.
