Ok so now that i have my new toy (my boost gauge) ive been looking at it constantly checking to see what my psi levels are.On average i see about 10 to 11 psi although sometimes I see .8 bar which should be above 11 psi.Heres the strange part.I was heading home going up a hill and I had the car in first then i shifted to 2nd.Needles to say the fd really boosts up hills.So I somehow managed to hit 1.0 bar which is somewhere between 14 and 15 psi.I thought it was impossible to do that on ostly stock parts.Also my turbos made a strange noise like a woooom sound.Im definatly going to be more carefull.But I just find it very strange that this happened with only a blitz intake on.

 

Better intake + cold weather = boost spikes.

 

Wow. Hard to believe that you are boosting over 14 psi with just an intake. Is it holding at that level?

Better get a boost controller.

 

I cant say if it will hold 15 psi simply because as soon as i saw that much psi I almost **** my pants.I thought for sure I was gonna blow something.Whats weird is that ive heard that strange noise coming from my turbos before.So I must have hit 15 psi before and didnt know it.Now i know better.Thank god for a boost gauge.And yeah my blitz intake has added some more pep in the fd's step.Especially when its really cold outside.I guess colorado is good for one thing.Free horsepower.I was going to get a catback next.Hopefully it doesnt increase the spiking.Although it probably will.

 

I thought the car had some safeguards against overboosting.Like boost cut or something?

 

its impossible overboosting only with intakes . with modif exhaust for sure !!!!!!!

 

you say impssible.I know what i saw on the boost gauge. 1.0 bars. Thats somewhere between 14 and 15 psi.Although I may have a hypothesis on how this may be happening besides the colder air and intakes.
Ok so when I changed all my vacuum lines to silicone I managed to throw out the 2 hoses that had the restrictor pills in them.I felt like a dumb ***.Anyways I had a buddy of mine make some restrictor pills out of copper.I didnt know exactly how big or small to make the holes in the pills.He has a turbo dsm.So i guess he knew generaly what the hole size had to be.

 

There's your answer. If you want something simple, install a manual boost controller. I suggest replacing the prespool vacuum line with the OEM line from Mazda. It should have the correct size pill(s) in it.

 

I guess i was right then.Well for now as long as I dont stomp the **** outta the gas pedal or when going up hills ill be ok.But im going to pick up the oem lines.Does anyone know if the blitz boost controllers are any good.Or are all the boost controllers pretty much the same?

 

Even with the correct size pills, you can still experience boost spikes. The reason fuel cut didn't stop it from happening is that the boost needs to be sustained for a period of time (not sure how long that is, maybe 2 seconds, maybe more, maybe less) for fuel cut to step in. This is why boost spikes can be dangerous.

As Adam mentioned, a boost controller will solve the problem and eliminate boost spikes from being a problem in the future.

Most people go with the GReddy Profec B for their choice in boost controllers.

 

Well I guess a boost controller is a must.Im probably going to go with a blitz sbc-id.Ive asked this in another thread but ive gotten little to no response.So im hoping you can help me on this mahjik.Can I run an intake/catback/high flow cat/downpipe/and front mount intercooler without a fuel computer as long as boost stays within 10 psi?

 

The consensus here is that you wil be OK as long as you keep it to a maximum of 10psi

 

thats good news.I was hoping i could.I think the kicker will be when i finally go with the swap to stick and rebuild my engine.Also some new turbos and a power fc.But all that can wait right now.
It will be easier on me in the long run though.
Im thinking of doing those mods and then doing this.
Swap to stick first.
Then a rebuild.not sure about a mild streetport yet.Would a mild streetport and a set of m2's twin bb turbos even out in the low end torque dept. Being that the m2's spool up quicker than the stock twins and a port job would affect quicker spool up.I would think the two would cancel out the negative effect or even better would improve things for the better.And of course to finish up the whole thing a apex power fc.

 

yeah but in Colorado, the air is thinner....

 

so what do you think mahjik? will the m2 bb twin work well with a mild streetported engine?

 

If you are going to port the engine, don't waste your time with a mild port. Either get a large port or don't port it at all. The "low end" loss that you hear about is something that you'll never notice.

 

thats some good advice mahjik.I was waiting on your advice.You sure know a lot.Well ive hear that a large port inst really streetable.So i guess a regular rebuild with some good seals and a set of m2 turbos will work very well right? Also is there any kind of porting that can be done for the oil and coolant to flow better so that the engine can be cooled more efficiently?

 

A large port is as streetable as no porting. The only thing that might make it non-streetable would be trying to pass a sniffer for emissions with it. Other than that, it's perfectly fine. It does alter your idle, making it lumpy, but that's it.

As for oil and coolant mods, check with Pineapple Racing:

http://www.pineappleracing.com/PricelistSvcs.html

They do oil and coolant mods to rebuilds. I don't know if anyone has any technical info on whether they really help or not. Just depends on how much money you want to spend on a rebuild.

 

thanx mahjik.Well I would like to pass emmisions so I guess porting the motor isnt for me.Now faster spooling turbos are definatly for me.lol.Ill check with pineapple to see what they offer.thanx again.