Opinion on repairing small rust spot
Opinion on repairing small rust spot
Opinion on repairing small rust spot.
Below are pictures of small specs of rust. How would you go about this? Should I spray it with rust converter but first sand some off? I'd just like some people''s opinion. I don't want to go down to bare metal but if I have to, then whatever.
Below are pictures of small specs of rust. How would you go about this? Should I spray it with rust converter but first sand some off? I'd just like some people''s opinion. I don't want to go down to bare metal but if I have to, then whatever.
If using an acid based rust converter, just scratch it back a bit to remove any loose rust and rust convert it, you don't want to be applying rust converter to cleaned/sanded metal.
If you want to sand it back to good and paint, don't worry about the rust converter.
I think I'd be tempted to remove a little of the tyre well sound deadening to see if the rust is underneath there too.
If you want to sand it back to good and paint, don't worry about the rust converter.
I think I'd be tempted to remove a little of the tyre well sound deadening to see if the rust is underneath there too.
If using an acid based rust converter, just scratch it back a bit to remove any loose rust and rust convert it, you don't want to be applying rust converter to cleaned/sanded metal.
If you want to sand it back to good and paint, don't worry about the rust converter.
I think I'd be tempted to remove a little of the tyre well sound deadening to see if the rust is underneath there too.
If you want to sand it back to good and paint, don't worry about the rust converter.
I think I'd be tempted to remove a little of the tyre well sound deadening to see if the rust is underneath there too.
So the rust converter from loctite actually causes more rust if there is no rust. I'm not using rust converter now. I have very light rust that comes off with my finger nail.
If you read the can, you will see.
If you read the can, you will see.
You do have very light rust. But you're not likely going to get it all off with your fingernails. It was hard to read the label and maybe I missed it, but I didn't see anything in the directions to cause worry.
Regardless, if it's a concern, you'll need to either sand the areas down to bare metal or use a product like that to convert ALL the iron oxide to a paintable surface. Fortunately none of the areas pictured are highly visible. If you don't want to use the converter, have some touch-up paint, and the areas are small enough with no scaling, you could use a fine sanding pad to take it to as close to bare metal as possible. Clean areas well with a little enamel reducer (brake cleaner also works in a pinch) then use an art brush to apply some zinc chromate primer before sanding and top-coating with your touch-up paint.
Regardless, if it's a concern, you'll need to either sand the areas down to bare metal or use a product like that to convert ALL the iron oxide to a paintable surface. Fortunately none of the areas pictured are highly visible. If you don't want to use the converter, have some touch-up paint, and the areas are small enough with no scaling, you could use a fine sanding pad to take it to as close to bare metal as possible. Clean areas well with a little enamel reducer (brake cleaner also works in a pinch) then use an art brush to apply some zinc chromate primer before sanding and top-coating with your touch-up paint.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Feb 20, 2018 at 05:26 AM.
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There is only one thing that can cure rust, and that is sand shot at high velocity against the offender.
You get some real nice spot sandblasters. I would get one of them and use, to make sure you remove any sign of rust before paint.
I have tried many different things, and that is so far the only lasting solution.
You get some real nice spot sandblasters. I would get one of them and use, to make sure you remove any sign of rust before paint.
I have tried many different things, and that is so far the only lasting solution.
you do have very light rust. But you're not likely going to get it all off with your fingernails. It was hard to read the label and maybe i missed it, but i didn't see anything in the directions to cause worry.
Regardless, if it's a concern, you'll need to either sand the areas down to bare metal or use a product like that to convert all the iron oxide to a paintable surface. Fortunately none of the areas pictured are highly visible. If you don't want to use the converter, have some touch-up paint, and the areas are small enough with no scaling, you could use a fine sanding pad to take it to as close to bare metal as possible. Clean areas well with a little enamel reducer (brake cleaner also works in a pinch) then use an art brush to apply some zinc chromate primer before sanding and top-coating with your touch-up paint.
Regardless, if it's a concern, you'll need to either sand the areas down to bare metal or use a product like that to convert all the iron oxide to a paintable surface. Fortunately none of the areas pictured are highly visible. If you don't want to use the converter, have some touch-up paint, and the areas are small enough with no scaling, you could use a fine sanding pad to take it to as close to bare metal as possible. Clean areas well with a little enamel reducer (brake cleaner also works in a pinch) then use an art brush to apply some zinc chromate primer before sanding and top-coating with your touch-up paint.
You can use sand paper, I just prefer the pads for small areas. Don’t think I’d go any coarser than maybe 180.
I don’t have ALOT of experience with that rust converter but I think that they’re referring to other unprotected bare metal. Not the surrounding painted surfaces of the areas pictured.
Honestly looking back at those pics...and how small the areas are and located in all but invisible areas, I might just clean up any scale and daub a little rattle-can undercoating on them with a throw-away art brush and be done.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Feb 20, 2018 at 06:53 AM.
It does the deep clean needed to get rid of 100% of the rust, and it does not fill your car with sand. It is a closed system that is perfect for this.
Sanding with regular paper will not take everything since it cant reach down in the small pores of the metal.
Spot blaster:
You guys are over thinking it for a little surface rust, either sand it back to good and paint it or remove any loose rust (Literally scratch any off with a screwdriver in 30 seconds), rust convert with a decent acid based rust converter and it'll be fine. A decent rust converter on surface rust will offer better protection than most normal paint as it converts the iron oxide to a layer of iron tannate, sealing the rust in and preventing it from getting any worse. Paint on top of that and you'll be good. If you want to go overkill, go for a decent epoxy paint and it'll last decades.
Last edited by Ceylon; Feb 20, 2018 at 07:45 AM.
You guys are over thinking it for a little surface rust, either sand it back to good and paint it or remove any loose rust (Literally scratch any off with a screwdriver in 30 seconds), rust convert with a decent acid based rust converter and it'll be fine. A decent rust converter on surface rust will offer better protection than most normal paint as it converts the iron oxide to a layer of iron tannate, sealing the rust in and preventing it from getting any worse. Paint on top of that and you'll be good. If you want to go overkill, go for a decent epoxy paint and it'll last decades.
Rust is gone, I went to my local paint shop and the guy asked if I had something metal under the carpet that was creating rust on top. Here is some metal key that was on top.
Then here is what I did, I used a grease and wax remover with a scruff pad. The rust came right off. Then for extra safety, I painted over it with clear paint and primer from rust-oleum. Here is the after.
Then here is what I did, I used a grease and wax remover with a scruff pad. The rust came right off. Then for extra safety, I painted over it with clear paint and primer from rust-oleum. Here is the after.
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