REDLINE

Ahhh Craaap!!! I think my ABS unit is about to go....I drove my FD up onto some ramps today to do an oil change, and some weird oily material came dripping down from the front passanger fender. I traced it back to the ABS unit with all the metal tubes sticking out of it...couldn't see exactly where it came from, but now my Brake light comes on because the reservoir is low....anyone have similar problems? I think those units cost about $2500 to replace. Somebody help me out please!!!

Toadman

all I can say is test-tighten the fittings and check for leaks, bro. GL...

martini

brake fluid is highyl corrosive. make sure you clean that stuff up well..

REDLINE

Thanks for the advices guys...I'll definetly clean it with carb cleaner and check for the fittings....

skunks

well what you could do is a nonabs conversion. i read somewhere that you can take out the abs system in such cases like yours for about 10 bucks. true you dont get abs but if your a good enuf driver, you will be able to sence right before the brakes lock up and do a better job at braking (personnaly if you can do this i think your one hell of a driver!!!).

ill try to find the link.

woohoo i found it, k heres the link

http://www.exit13b.com/exit13b.com/rx7_abs_removal.htm

as well as the entire artical just in case the page dies.


How to Remove the ABS Unit on your Mazda Rx-7

Can't afford a new ABS unit?? Don't scrap the car yet!!
(This is content of an article I posted to the main list)

My ABS unit failed also. Since I hate ABS anyways, I decided to remove the unit completely.
It is fairly simple, and will only cost about $10 to accomplish. First, you will need to get some
rental tools from an auto parts store. You will have to put down a $20 or so deposit for each tool,
but should receive a full refund when you return them. You will need 1) a tubing bender, 2) a
Brake line flaring tool, and (3) a tubing cutter. In addition, you will need (5) 3/16" male brake line
fittings, (1) 3/16" female-female coupler, and (1) 3/16" 3-way female 'T'. Remove all the lines from
the ABS unit with a 10mm wrench, and remove the unit. You will see that the lines pass out of the
brake master cylinder, into the proportioning valve, and into the ABS unit, and then to each
caliper. The rear calipers have only one fitting on the ABS unit, since this line is split to both rear
calipers at a T under the rear of the car. First, locate the line that goes to the rear calipers. You
need to cut this line, leaving enough length to reach the proportioning valve next to the master
cylinder. Reuse the factory 10mm male fitting, flare the end, and attach the line into the rear side
of the proportioning valve. That’s the easy one – your rear brakes are done. The front, however,
will require a few more connections. Next, you will need to cut the line coming out of the
proportioning valve that feeds the front side of the ABS unit. Leave about 10 inches of line or
so (you can judge this length better once you see where this is headed). Attach a 3/16" male
fitting to the end of this line, and insert into one opening on the 3-way ‘T’. Now, find the line that
feeds the left front caliper (driver’s side). You will need to cut this line, and attach a 3/16" end, so
that it reaches the 3-way T. Now, you need to connect the right front caliper. This requires an
extra step, since this line only reaches the ABS unit. You will need to use the female-female
coupler to extend this line to reach the 3-way T fitting. If you plan this early in your project, you
can use one of the lines that is already run across the firewall, and is attached in the factory clips.
Make sure you use the tubing bender for all of the line you modify, and be extra careful with the
flaring technique. After cutting, the tube must be de-burred both internally and externally to insure
proper flaring. This job only takes an hour or so, and the results are excellent. Turbo access is
greatly improved (especially is you have a large aftermarket turbo), and braking performance is
not reduced. If you wanted to do a ‘cleaner’ job, you could switch to a master cylinder from a
non-ABS car. This master cylinder has 3 outputs (one for the rear, and one for each front caliper)
so that the T fitting is no longer used. The coupler for the front right caliper could be avoided by
running an entire new line directly to the caliper. However, the above instructions create a very
clean installation that is completely legal. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE
COMPRESSION FITTINGS! They will not pass inspection, and furthermore, it is plain stupid.
We are stopping ROTARY power here, right? : )

Good luck in your endeavors. Anyone may feel free to email me for more questions.



good luck

P.S. this might be for a fc, im not really sure.

REDLINE

thanks for the info skunk. I personally would rather keep the ABS if possible. I've heard of converting ABS 2nd. gens into non ABS when their ABS failed, but I've never seen it in a third gen. Oh well....if anyone else out there ever experienced this, please let me know....is this a common problem in FDs?

REDLINE

Anyone know how hard it is to remove and replace the ABS unit on a 3rd. gen? Does the 2nd. gens also have 4-wheel ABS?

PhilGURU

I have a spare ABS... well actually I have an entire spare car a 94. Lemme know If you need any parts.