Only 10psi for fuel pressure?
#26
rotorhead
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With the engine off the vacuum hoes does nothing and you are running at "base" pressure. If the FPR is receiving manifold vacuum and boost then it should be fine as long as the hose is secure.
Just a warning: if your fuel pressure is low or the FPR is otherwise malfunctioning, the car may die almost immediately because it's too lean--at which point the FML mentality will ensue. There's nothing like a new build dying on you to **** up your day.
Just a warning: if your fuel pressure is low or the FPR is otherwise malfunctioning, the car may die almost immediately because it's too lean--at which point the FML mentality will ensue. There's nothing like a new build dying on you to **** up your day.
#27
Rotary Freak
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Well I don't know if this is good or bad news.
The car started amazingly on the first attempt. I had to keep giving it gas it would never idle but I am pretty sure that is just adjustments.
Second, I didn't really check my FPR as you'll see in the videos it wasn't the main concern, but checking on the videos, my FPR is reading ~50psi, so we'll have to loosen it correct?
Third and the most concerning as I'm sure you'll be able to hear is that "tick/knocking" noise. It sounds as if it is coming from the water pump area or just in that general area.
I've uploaded the 3 videos I took and I have no idea where to start checking first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyIyT7Ts3rk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6UETMqlq_A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk0AK5uyfR0
The car started amazingly on the first attempt. I had to keep giving it gas it would never idle but I am pretty sure that is just adjustments.
Second, I didn't really check my FPR as you'll see in the videos it wasn't the main concern, but checking on the videos, my FPR is reading ~50psi, so we'll have to loosen it correct?
Third and the most concerning as I'm sure you'll be able to hear is that "tick/knocking" noise. It sounds as if it is coming from the water pump area or just in that general area.
I've uploaded the 3 videos I took and I have no idea where to start checking first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyIyT7Ts3rk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6UETMqlq_A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk0AK5uyfR0
#29
Rotary Freak
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I checked the olive green metal behind the crank pulley and it looks like it's clear of everything. It does seem like it's close to some things, so when I try it again, I'll make sure to check that it is spinning straight and not hitting the front cover or anything.
#30
Just in time to die
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I would also check the alternator pully, sometimes those can touch if not machined properly. Most cars (unmodified fuel wiring) will see around 11.5v some lower. I suggest rewiring the pump as Ihor states below before getting it tuned. Pretty simple straight forward thing shouldn't take you too long and it will definitely be a benefit.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...tage+fuel+pump
~S~
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...tage+fuel+pump
~S~
#34
Rotary Freak
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For those wanting to know what was wrong with the car it was the tab that held the OMP lines that went up to the engine. Took the belt off, turned the motor over and followed the tab that was extending off the crank pulley and saw that it was just barely hitting it. Bent it up out of the way and the knocking is gone!
Check my build thread for video!
Thanks a lot guys!
Check my build thread for video!
Thanks a lot guys!
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2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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