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OMP oil leak. Gasket or Pump?

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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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OMP oil leak. Gasket or Pump?

I am not too familiar with OMP's. I have a decent oil leak from the from main seal and also what seams like the OMP. The leak seems to start when the car is worked (track days).

Before I hit the classfields, what is the common culprit for a leak from the OMP? Is it just the gasket or the whole pump? New pumps are stupid expensive. My car has about 50K miles btw.

Also, any tricks on taking off the main pulley nut to replace the front main seal lol? I hear those can be on there tight.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 12:57 AM
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Originally Posted by ArmenMAxx
I am not too familiar with OMP's. I have a decent oil leak from the from main seal and also what seams like the OMP. The leak seems to start when the car is worked (track days).

Before I hit the classfields, what is the common culprit for a leak from the OMP? Is it just the gasket or the whole pump? New pumps are stupid expensive. My car has about 50K miles btw.

Also, any tricks on taking off the main pulley nut to replace the front main seal lol? I hear those can be on there tight.
There is an o-ring between the OMP and the front cover. IT should cost less than $5 brand new. The copper crush washers that hold the oil lines to the OMP are reusable, however some people sleep better at night if they replace those as well and they are only a couple bucks extra so you may as well. Have a couple cans of brake/carb cleaner on hand to spray off the pump and surrounding area and clean it up nice during the job.

The front bolt is loctited from the factory, so even though it was supposed to be installed with around 100ftlb, it usually takes closer to 700-1000ftlb to remove it. There are 2 methods I have used:

1) strongest impact gun you can find...I use an Ingersoll Rand Titanium 1/2" 1000ftlb rated gun. About half the time or more it will not take the bolt off. In that case I use an oxyacetylene torch to heat the head of the bolt. This will usually melt the loctite and let you have a better shot at removing it with the regular impact gun.

2) If the "little" impact gun won't take it off then I get out the big boy...a 24" long, 1" drive shaft, 1800ftlb impact driver normally used to work on heavy equipment. That gun ALWAYS takes the the bolt out.

The latter is not an option with the engine in the car due to room.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:42 AM
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Thanks for the tips..

So you are saying that the o-ring is most likely whats causing the leak? I dont know how common it is for the OMP itself to go bad.

As for the front bolt, I will try the torch and impact method and cross my fingers.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 06:36 AM
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That 'O' ring would be my first suspect. I've never had a leak there, but on the OMPs I've removed the ring has always been flattened pretty badly. The only other place is the copper crush washers, but in my experience if they haven't been disturbed they don't leak.
On other thought, the lines for the OMP run up just above the front hub. I could see a leak from that area following front cover and/or OMP lines down and making it appear the source is the OMP...when it isn't. Depending on how badly it's leaking, you could clean it up really well before the next event and narrow it down by looking for the source afterward.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Originally Posted by ArmenMAxx
Thanks for the tips..

So you are saying that the o-ring is most likely whats causing the leak? I dont know how common it is for the OMP itself to go bad.

As for the front bolt, I will try the torch and impact method and cross my fingers.
It's almost certainly the o-ring.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:14 PM
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I have viton replacement o-rings for the FD OMP to front cover junction and the end plate... if you're interested. PM me on that.

If your copper crush washers are leaking, you can re-anneal the originals with a propane torch and they will seal like new.

GL
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