OK, what happened?
#1
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OK, what happened?
I just got my car out of the shop from a front-on cosmetic only damage (personally verified,) repair from a snow storm on the 6th of December. Everything was fine prior to the incident. (12k from new turbos, with recent replacement of solinoids, in stock sequential config.)
I take it out on the road after a cold start and warm up, and I only read 4lb boost until I hit the 4.5-5k secondary kick in, after which I get 10lbs of boost. Following that one spike, the rest of the day, even if the engine is turned off and turned back on again, is a standard 10-8-10 pattern. It only happens from cold starts, and after I hit the secondary turbo engagement, it self corrects for the rest of the day.
My question, considering new solinoids with silicone lines, relatively young turbos, etc., is whether or not I damaged the actuator, got a leak in the vacuum control, a stuck gate, or what.
Thanks.
I take it out on the road after a cold start and warm up, and I only read 4lb boost until I hit the 4.5-5k secondary kick in, after which I get 10lbs of boost. Following that one spike, the rest of the day, even if the engine is turned off and turned back on again, is a standard 10-8-10 pattern. It only happens from cold starts, and after I hit the secondary turbo engagement, it self corrects for the rest of the day.
My question, considering new solinoids with silicone lines, relatively young turbos, etc., is whether or not I damaged the actuator, got a leak in the vacuum control, a stuck gate, or what.
Thanks.
#2
5yr member, joined 2001
Maybe your CCV (Charge Control Valve) is being propped open a little bit until it is snapped shut when you drop back below 4500rpm. If you find that the problem is getting worse, then dive into your y-pipe and charge elbow to make sure that no sludge is building up on and around the CCV.
#4
I'm a CF and poop smith
there is a thing called warm up mode and you dont get out of it till your over 180 degrees F. when your in warm up mode, your double throttle valves still kinda closed and your running different fuel maps and stuff like that.
BTW: Why the hell are you getting on the boost before warming up your car, do you want to kill your car??? This is exactly why people's engine go to **** so fast!!!
BTW: Why the hell are you getting on the boost before warming up your car, do you want to kill your car??? This is exactly why people's engine go to **** so fast!!!
#5
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Sorry, need to clarify:
I am at operating temps when this incident happens...when I mean cold start, I mean the first start of the day (i.e. after an overnight rest.) It's the first time I take it up to boost after getting into operating temp that I get the 4lb, and after the secondary engagement and its 10lbs boost, it self corrects and I get the standard pattern of 10-8-10.
Sorry for any confusion. I am extremely paranoid about my engine, skunks. I give it a good 5-10min to get into the range before I even think of giving it boost.
I am at operating temps when this incident happens...when I mean cold start, I mean the first start of the day (i.e. after an overnight rest.) It's the first time I take it up to boost after getting into operating temp that I get the 4lb, and after the secondary engagement and its 10lbs boost, it self corrects and I get the standard pattern of 10-8-10.
Sorry for any confusion. I am extremely paranoid about my engine, skunks. I give it a good 5-10min to get into the range before I even think of giving it boost.
Last edited by Storm Knight; 01-01-03 at 07:43 PM.
#6
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You may have a very slow leaking check valve that allows all the pressure out of the pressure tank. You have to boost once to get the pressure back, then the sequential system works as advertised. The leak is slow enough that you don't notice unless the car sits overnight.
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