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View Poll Results: Preferred Oil Viscosity
10w-30
35.00%
10w-40
16.67%
15w-50
14.17%
Other
34.17%
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Oil Viscosity

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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 04:02 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by skir2222
The rotella 15-40w oil at walmart was 11.50$ for 1 gallon
Originally Posted by skir2222
Did you smell your oil when your drained it? If so, how strong did it smell of gasoline?
That's cheaper than what I paid which was $11.77.

Yes, the oil smelled like gas and it was analyzed at 3% fuel dillution after 1,000 miles. I can't wait to change my oil so I can throw in this rotella 15w40.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 04:39 PM
  #177  
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Damn all this talk and i forgot about my own oil change! lol

I just checked my log book and last oil change was july 10, 2008

I dont drive it much but ALOT of short trips and recently since its cold out, mainly just starting up to let it idle, and moving up and down (to keep tires round).

I smelled the oil and it smells like gas, normally what i always smell though.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 04:56 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by skir2222
Ahh that's good to know, if that is actually true... I am glad I switched.

I remember I had a turbo fc with a built atkins engine... 3mm seals and ported. When I would change the oil on that it would STINK of gas but I had it checked out and was told that it's normal.

But today after I drained it, I kept on sniffing it. I smelled it a little bit but nothing like the FC I had.
I have a 3 mm seal engine as well, and the side seals were clearanced carefully...perhaps it just needs more break-in time, it does some to be getting better, I just went out and took a whiff
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by RX7 RAGE
Yes, the oil smelled like gas and it was analyzed at 3% fuel dillution after 1,000 miles. I can't wait to change my oil so I can throw in this rotella 15w40.
reman or rebuild? if a rebuild, who built the engine?
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:12 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by 2007 ZX-10
reman or rebuild? if a rebuild, who built the engine?
Rebuilt by yours truly. I have logged 4,500 hard miles on this motor now with no problems.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:58 PM
  #181  
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My FD has a rebuild with 6k on the clock now, built by JPR Imports 2mm seals and ported.

Sold the FC a while ago.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:59 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by RX7 RAGE
That's cheaper than what I paid which was $11.77.

Yes, the oil smelled like gas and it was analyzed at 3% fuel dillution after 1,000 miles. I can't wait to change my oil so I can throw in this rotella 15w40.
That's damn cheap I think!
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 06:24 PM
  #183  
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lol im glad i started a new rotella trend
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #184  
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No one thinks castrol gtx is a good oil?
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #185  
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^ I do, I do!!
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #186  
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O, cause like no one mentioned it in this thread except me. I been using castrol in all my cars (even in my family's cars when i do their oil) for quite some time now.

I think its a good oil.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 12:01 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by 1QWIK7
No one thinks castrol gtx is a good oil?
castrol gtx is my dino oil of choice (10w30 usually).

5w30 Amsoil as a synthetic.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 07:57 AM
  #188  
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Something to consider.

When you start your cold engine with heavy weight oils the filter is by-passed and contaminants are sent to your bearings and turbo.

Mazda’s specification is for the filter to by-pass when it sees a 14 psi differential pressure across the filter element (and the finer the filter, the higher differential). The relief valve is made into the filter. Unless you are using a remote full flow filter our filter continues to by-pass contaminants till the oil is warm.

I worked for an oil company on turbine and reciprocal powered aircraft. On the engines ond transmissions we had impending by-pass indicators on the filter heads to indicate when the filter was becoming contaminated. On cold mornings (below 40º F they would “pop” regularly because of the thick oil. This was with 100% synthetic.

I try to keep my oil pressure below 100 psi on starts and will not move the car till I have 50º C oil temp.

Barry
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 09:42 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by Barry Bordes
Something to consider.

When you start your cold engine with heavy weight oils the filter is by-passed and contaminants are sent to your bearings and turbo.

Mazda’s specification is for the filter to by-pass when it sees a 14 psi differential pressure across the filter element (and the finer the filter, the higher differential). The relief valve is made into the filter. Unless you are using a remote full flow filter our filter continues to by-pass contaminants till the oil is warm.

I worked for an oil company on turbine and reciprocal powered aircraft. On the engines ond transmissions we had impending by-pass indicators on the filter heads to indicate when the filter was becoming contaminated. On cold mornings (below 40º F they would “pop” regularly because of the thick oil. This was with 100% synthetic.

I try to keep my oil pressure below 100 psi on starts and will not move the car till I have 50º C oil temp.

Barry
O great, now you just opened up another 20 page debate on "how long should you warm up your car for"...

LOL

Quick answer to that, til i see about 110-120F WATER temp, which takes about 8-10 minutes in this cold weather.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by Barry Bordes
Something to consider.

When you start your cold engine with heavy weight oils the filter is by-passed and contaminants are sent to your bearings and turbo.

Mazda’s specification is for the filter to by-pass when it sees a 14 psi differential pressure across the filter element (and the finer the filter, the higher differential). The relief valve is made into the filter. Unless you are using a remote full flow filter our filter continues to by-pass contaminants till the oil is warm.

I worked for an oil company on turbine and reciprocal powered aircraft. On the engines ond transmissions we had impending by-pass indicators on the filter heads to indicate when the filter was becoming contaminated. On cold mornings (below 40º F they would “pop” regularly because of the thick oil. This was with 100% synthetic.

I try to keep my oil pressure below 100 psi on starts and will not move the car till I have 50º C oil temp.

Barry
Barry - can you summarize what oil weights do the trick for you during general ambient temps?
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Barry Bordes
Something to consider.

When you start your cold engine with heavy weight oils the filter is by-passed
true, and I was aware of that, but 5w-30 is going to be super thin with fuel dilution

and contaminants are sent to your bearings and turbo.
I'm not sure all filters have this issue, I use Mobil1 or K&N filters

I worked for an oil company on turbine and reciprocal powered aircraft. On the engines ond transmissions we had impending by-pass indicators on the filter heads to indicate when the filter was becoming contaminated. On cold mornings (below 40º F they would “pop” regularly because of the thick oil. This was with 100% synthetic.
how thick?
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 12:04 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by Barry Bordes
Viscosity selection should be determined by pressure at RPM in relation to oil temp. (Manufacturer’s specification 50psi @ 3000rpm minimum)
I'm at about 60 psi at 3,000 rpm with Mobil 1 15w-50
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:41 PM
  #193  
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^ seems kinda low for a 15-50 , what water/oil temps are the readigns at and where do you get your temps ?
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:51 PM
  #194  
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I see 60 psi of oil pressure at 3krpms with 10w-30 as well.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #195  
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stock gauge?

Mobil 1 is good stuff, I may end up going back to it, but I just picked up some Amsoil 20w-50
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by David0ff
seems kinda low for a 15-50 , what water/oil temps are the readigns at and where do you get your temps ?
when cold it's more like 100, it takes about 10-15 minutes or so to reach operating temps (longer than it takes the water to peak out around 82 C)...you can see why short trips are so hard on oil
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #197  
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Yea, I'm just using the stock oil pressure gauge.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 07:36 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by zenofspeed
Barry - can you summarize what oil weights do the trick for you during general ambient temps?
After reading the article
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052
I went from using 20w50 to 10w40 to 10w30 to 5w30 now. The indicated pressures at hot idle and hot cruise are very close to identical.


Originally Posted by 2007 ZX-10
true, and I was aware of that, but 5w-30 is going to be super thin with fuel dilution

You should not have much fuel dilution. How much boost are you running? Mineral based multigrade oils revert to lower number with heat and age when the viscosity enhancer die.

I'm not sure all filters have this issue, I use Mobil1 or K&N filters

Look into the center of the filter’s threaded adapter. You will see a disk with a rivet in its center. This is the relief valve. The filter will implode if it doesn’t bypass at high differential pressures.
how thick?
Originally Posted by 2007 ZX-10
stock gauge?

Mobil 1 is good stuff, I may end up going back to it, but I just picked up some Amsoil 20w-50
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Barry Bordes
Look into the center of the filter’s threaded adapter. You will see a disk with a rivet in its center. This is the relief valve. The filter will implode if it doesn’t bypass at high differential pressures.
Clarification - This means the filtering element will implode from the pressure differential from its outside to inside, not the whole filter.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Clarification - This means the filtering element will implode from the pressure differential from its outside to inside, not the whole filter.
DaveW,

Thanks for that catch of possible misinterpretation.

Barry
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