View Poll Results: Preferred Oil Viscosity
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Oil Viscosity
01-13-09, 08:44 PM
#27
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10w-30 in these engines is insane if you ask me, especially with proven 3+% fuel dilution after a mere 1,000 MILES!
01-13-09, 08:53 PM
#28
Constant threat
I run 10W-30 in the winter and 20W-50 in the summer, when the car is driven a lot more.
Question: While it is known that there is fuel dilution, what offset is there by the addition of the quart of oil the engine 'uses' every thousand miles or so? Or is that oil dilution figure taking this into account?
Question: While it is known that there is fuel dilution, what offset is there by the addition of the quart of oil the engine 'uses' every thousand miles or so? Or is that oil dilution figure taking this into account?
01-13-09, 09:49 PM
#29
Rotary Enthusiast
hmmm why dont more people use 15w-40.?
its between 10w-30 and 10w-50.
and it must contain less additives then a 10w-50. and may be more resistant to fuel dilution.
Its been awile since i did my reading on oil (so im sorry if im way off the mark ), but im pretty sure the further the two numbers are apart - the more the oil thinkness /viscosity changes as heat changes and the more additives the oil must have to achieve these different thicknesses at different temps. i.e. 15w is thinkness at cold temp and 40 is thinkness at operating temp.
The less change the oil has to go through the better, and the less additives are in the oil.
Its not practicle to have a single weight oil (especially in our cars) as it would not be able to protect our engines at both startup and operational temperatures as different viscosities are required for these tasks.
It needs to be thin enough to circulate and lubricate the apex seals etc at startup but be resistant enough to heat that it dosent break down and stop working correctly at the higher operating temps of a rotary.
its between 10w-30 and 10w-50.
and it must contain less additives then a 10w-50. and may be more resistant to fuel dilution.
Its been awile since i did my reading on oil (so im sorry if im way off the mark ), but im pretty sure the further the two numbers are apart - the more the oil thinkness /viscosity changes as heat changes and the more additives the oil must have to achieve these different thicknesses at different temps. i.e. 15w is thinkness at cold temp and 40 is thinkness at operating temp.
The less change the oil has to go through the better, and the less additives are in the oil.
Its not practicle to have a single weight oil (especially in our cars) as it would not be able to protect our engines at both startup and operational temperatures as different viscosities are required for these tasks.
It needs to be thin enough to circulate and lubricate the apex seals etc at startup but be resistant enough to heat that it dosent break down and stop working correctly at the higher operating temps of a rotary.
01-13-09, 09:57 PM
#30
Also after reviewing some more of that info the schaeffers viscosity a higher temps is in fact on par with idemitsu if not greater. That is really odd considering it has a lower viscosity index. I think i know what im going to try although i was using Schaeffers 5w20 in my mazda 6 before an accident
Better body and viscosity...
01-14-09, 03:56 PM
#36
10w-30 since I mainly just drive around the street. If I was racing I would run 50.
I pick 10w-30 for street use because I'd rather not trash my bearings waiting for oil pressure to build up during cold starts.
I'm not a fan of wide spread weights like 10w-50, those are more prone to degradation from my understanding.
I pick 10w-30 for street use because I'd rather not trash my bearings waiting for oil pressure to build up during cold starts.
I'm not a fan of wide spread weights like 10w-50, those are more prone to degradation from my understanding.
01-14-09, 05:22 PM
#37
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In an FD, I have to believe 10w-30, with the fuel dilution, shears down to a 20 weight very quickly. UOAs would show this; you 10w-30 guys need to get your oil analyzed ASAP, I have a feeling you'll be unpleasantly surprised by the results.
01-14-09, 05:59 PM
#38
Theres alot of people who ran 10w-30 for years without a problem.
To add to that, rotary engines fail prematurely from improper use/build/age, overheating or detonation.
I dont even think theres any recent history of an engine failing due to wrong weight of oil, or any oil related problem.
To add to that, rotary engines fail prematurely from improper use/build/age, overheating or detonation.
I dont even think theres any recent history of an engine failing due to wrong weight of oil, or any oil related problem.
01-14-09, 08:20 PM
#40
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wrong....if you read the whole thread, I already posted that Brain (BNR turbos) had an oil related failure...he specifically cited the reason as waiting too long between oil changes
01-14-09, 11:23 PM
#42
In an FD, I have to believe 10w-30, with the fuel dilution, shears down to a 20 weight very quickly. UOAs would show this; you 10w-30 guys need to get your oil analyzed ASAP, I have a feeling you'll be unpleasantly surprised by the results.
i trusted them and used always used SupreTech (yeah, the wal-mart stuff) 10w40 SM with regular changes @ 2000mile intervals. no problems at all
01-15-09, 03:21 PM
#45
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I run Idemitu 10w30 in the winter months here in NJ, and idemitsu 20w50 all other months. When I lived in Texas I ran 20w50 year round. You just have to make sure to warm the car up a bit and drive her easy until she's up to operating temp
01-15-09, 03:48 PM
#48
Punkrockin JUNGLIST
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That pretty much is 180 degrees from all that I've learned over the years from speaking to rotary gurus.....I'd be curious to see your internals upon teardown.
I run Idemitu 10w30 in the winter months here in NJ, and idemitsu 20w50 all other months. When I lived in Texas I ran 20w50 year round. You just have to make sure to warm the car up a bit and drive her easy until she's up to operating temp
I run Idemitu 10w30 in the winter months here in NJ, and idemitsu 20w50 all other months. When I lived in Texas I ran 20w50 year round. You just have to make sure to warm the car up a bit and drive her easy until she's up to operating temp
we live in CA dude, we don't have to worry about cold start viscosity. a majority of 7 owners that live where it snows usually don't drive their cars in winter.
01-15-09, 03:53 PM
#49
I wouldnt recommend anyone NOT changing their oil when 4-5 months go by.
And that was like what? 1 case? vs 2387238728372873872 other non oil related engine failures.
I dont see how this could be a big concern when you look at the statistics. Just change your oil religiously and you should be fine.