rotoober

iTrader: (3)

So, after the last track day I got a lot of smoke coming out from the dp/turbo area - already knew that my return lines and banjo nuts needed new gaskets/crush washers.
Now - car is in pieces in my shop, everything removed to do the job, but here is my question:

HOW THE HELL DO YOU REPLACE THE RETURN LINE GASKETS WITHOUT REMOVING THE TURBOS?

Is it impossible, and should I just soak the **** out of the turbo bolts with pb blaster and pull the turbos? I have no other problems except these 4 gaskets and would REALLY like to do the job with out pulling the twins.

Also: to those people who say they can pull a set of twins in 1/2 hour:

YOU ARE A ROTARY GOD - OR FULL OF CRAP!

thanks for you help!

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

Already Searched, couldn't find a definitive answer....

mgoddard1

If I remember right when you remove the two bolts from return line on the engine side the metal gasket will slide straight out and the front return line will take 3 gaskets because there is an extension pipe between the engine and the return line. I'm pretty sure you can access the return line bolts going into the turbos from underneath the car so once you remove the oil return line bolts on the engine side you can then remove the bolts on the turbo side and remove the oil return lines by pulling them straight down. If I'm wrong about this then somebody can feel free to correct me.
Also there's a good chance the o-ring for the oil metering pump is leaking so you might as well replace that too while you're in there. The banjo bolt washers on the oil inlet side are probably ok but they need to be torqued correctly if they're leaking.
Unless the engine is out of the car I also call B.S. on anybody who says they can remove the turbos from a stock rx7 in 30 minutes.

Gadd

There are studs on the engine side of the return lines and you maybe able to get to the bolts on the turbo side, but in the end I think it would be easyer just to pull the turbos. Are you sure there leaking? they are metal gaskets and you my be able to just retorque them. If you what I have a leak dye kit you welcome to borrow. It will help you pin point the leak.

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys!
Got them off, and they were definitly the problem. They seemed tight, but I guess after 65k and lots of heat, it's just one of those things.. Now I understand they are a bitch to get back on and I've read up on how to get the gaskets back on using the reverse-octopus-disjointed ty-wrap method. Has anybody used a light film of gasket maker over the new metal gaskets to ensure a good seal? I've got some high temp. rtv gasket maker in the shop that I was thinking of using...I don't want to pull these things off again until either the engine or turbos blow.

mgoddard1

I never tried using gasket sealant on those gaskets. I just made sure the mating surfaces were clean, torqued them properly, and they never leaked again.

Gadd

I've used Hylomar on gaskets like that, it helps hold them in place during assembly.

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

Well, there's 8 hours of my life I'll never get back, but it's finally done! Didn't end up taking off the turbos. Using an odd assortment of small sockets/extensions/reducers I was able to get the oil return lines back on, hopefully they are still clean. Spent 3 hours on the return lines themselves, but would take 1/2 the time now. Using ty-wraps to hold the turbo-side gasekets in place helped immemensily. Did this job with my car lift: I can't imagine doing this on a garage floor. Thanks for your help guys.