Just sold my wrx and bought a 94 t-66 fd and was wondering what kind of oil should I use for it. Also what weight and how many courts should I use. This is my first time owning an fd and I dont want to mess things up on my car.

 

i use Apexi mineral A3 class oil. Many ppl from here will tell you that you should use synthetic. There is an argument about mineral and synthetic and nobody managed to tell which is better and why. But if Mazda tells to use mineral then i use a high quality mineral and this is what i advise you to do.

 

U cannot use mineral on a rotary it willl eka through the seals

 

Can someone elaborate more on mineral oils if they have some info. This past weekend I made a Trek out to a Japanese superstore in So. Cal. I was in there oil section which carried more exotic oils from Japan than I have seen in my life. After drooling like a kid in a candy store one of the sales people stated that mineral oil was the way to go. Anyone got any info.


Here is the link to the place I went to. It's like Pep Boys but with all the stuff from Japan and people who might actually know something about cars.

http://www.autobacsusa.com/us_stores.php

 

My bad u cannot use synthetic on a rotary it will leak through the seals

 

Just put in a good quality oil, mineral or synthetic, and change it often. Synthetic oils are better for the turbo however. Almost no one has experienced an engine failure related to oil with an FD (other than not having enough of it!).

Mazda recommends 10w30, which is what I use. Some of the rotary shops recommend 20w50, especially for hot climates.

 

Bullshit. I have been using synthetic for the last two years with no problems. The only point of debate regarding synthetic oils is whether or not they leave behind a residue when burned in the combustion chamber.

 

The important thing is not to use baby oil.
That's a big no-no....

 

On higher mileage engines that have never used synthetic oil, it's a good idea NOT to switch to it. Synthetic is typically thinner and will expose any leaks the car might have. However, that's true on piston engines as well as rotary. I did that with my daily beater and now I have oil leaks everywhere (and it's not a rotary).

It perfectly fine to run today's synthetic oil. Years ago, that might not have been a good thing.

 

another dino vs syn....the reason synthetic "leaks through seals" is because its all uniform..Syn 10w30 is 100% 10w30 molecules, where as dino oil has many different sized molecules that 'average' 10w30. So when dino oil leaks less, is because all the smaller molecules have burned off...thats bad because you are left with a heavier oil, and since syn is uniform you will have more leakage, but better oil.

 

Not all people are EVER going to agree on regular vs synthetic.

As long as you use ANY good oil, I think you will be fine. I use 10w30 in the winter, and 20w50 in the summer.

 

I've been using Royal Purple 20w50 and there seems to be nothing wrong with it!!!

 

Mobil 1 Synthetic, 10W30. Been using it for the last 4 months since I got the engine and turbos rebuilt. No problems!

 

Try the Owner's Manual

I believe it says 10w-30 for winter and about 5 quarts - depends on whether it has a second oil cooler.

Type of oil: Not this argument again If you believe Mazda then only non-synthetic although many on the Forum use synthetic w/o any issues.

Synthetic - better for the turbos. Non-synthetic - ? good or bad for engine depending on who you talk to. Never seen any documented case of someone destroying an engine attributed to synthetic oil

Turbos actually cost more than the motor so take your pick