it started as a little leak.........now there's more and more each day. is my only option to pull the motor and redo the oil pan? or do i just keep adding oil? thanks in advance.

 

No need to pull the motor in order to replace the oil pan gasket. The short, short version: Remove motor mounts and raise the engine just enough to access the oil pan (2-4 ").

But fixing the damn leak now that's another story... I have replaced the gasket several times. I have even bought a new oil pan and the bitch still leaks, a lot less but still leaks. One thing is for sure get a new oil pan, they tend to bend when removed.

Oil pans are like 70 bucks if you buy them from Malloy Mazda if I remember correctly.

 

check the motor mounts first. The bolts could be loose. if so- easy fix.

 

DO NOT use the damn gasket, that is one of the reasons why it leaks. After removing the oil pan, clean the contact surface thouroughly.If any sealant is there, use a razor blade and scrape off all sealant. Use high quality RTV like ultra grey or Honda bond, put a continuouse 1/4" bead along the mating surface (on the inside of the bolt holes). Carefully, and evenly (a friend would come in handy at this point) move and align the oil pan against the block, this is the most critical step, if you mess up here, you WILL need to start over (cleaning, prepping etc.). Next hand tighten all oil pan bolts, get out your torque wrench and tighten in a cris-cross pattern in 3 steps, DO NOT tighten to torque spec on the first turn. This is the second most critical part, tighten to 1/3 the torque spec on all the bolts, then 2/3, then finally to the torque spec.
Allow 24 hours for the RTV to cure properly, install motor mounts, torque the mounts to spec, lower/re-install engine.
Most oil pans leak because 1. They are using the gasket, 2. The pan was not properly aligned and torqued evenly.

 

The motor mount could be completely off and there shouldn't be any oil leak. By tightening the MM bolts you are just slowing down the leak, not fixing it.

 

^I concur... I also reccommend using washers on all of the bolts as it will spread out the pressure a lil more evenly, hey every little bit helps... Also I learned a trick where you take a center punch and punch a bunch of little nicks in both the engine and pan sealing surface so that the RTV has more to hold onto. It's kind of a pain to do, but my pan had no problems whatsoever when doing both of these tricks together.

 

damn, that was quick responses.........i will get started on it right away after i drop in my roll bar. thanks again. kevin

 

also get a rotary extreme engine torque brace and install it after your done. should put less stress on the motor mounts and help keep the pan from torqing itself loose again. definately get a brace that has a damper, not a solid one since that would put to much stress on the LIM. this is the same problem I am going through as we speak. I still don't know how hard or easy this is going to be (replacing mounts and resealing pan) I like the sound of calling Malloy for a new pan. the gotham pan is too much $ for me. anybody else know where to get new oil pans for a descent price? Malloy, right?

 

who wants credit for me calling Malloy anyway? don't you guys get free pens and calenders or something? let me know.

 

Just tell them that you heard it from the forum so he continue with the low prices

 

once you have the front of the car up in the air, clean the underside off, and make sure all the oil residue is gone. Then start the car, let it run for a few minutes and take a close look underneath to see where the oil is actually leaking from..

Might be coming from the motor mounts, might be coming from the pan, might be coming from the front cover, might be coming from a turbo oil return line...

 

just like a good paint, job the prep work is where this job is won. brake clean is your friend. watch the eyes though

 

Um. I like chuck and most of the rotary extreme products so not bashing him at all. BUT, the torque brace is $230, and the oil pan brace is $140. It is not an oil pan, but a pan brace. If you want the correct info feel free to search, I am not typing it all again, lol . An engine torque brace will do two things to prevent oil leaks---jack and **** . I cannot count the # of FDs that I have seen that have bad oil leaks and an ETB to go along with their Class III Leak.

Do it once, do it right. I have *never* seen an FD have a leak with an oil pan brace, and I have seen ~20 installed and spoken to another 20 people with it installed with no problems.

 

he definately knows more than I. I am looking at the oil pan brace too. I was told to go with just the ETB, but I am convinced that the rotary extreme oil pan brace is the way to go. thanx GoodfellaFD3S. you are right on this one. credit where credit is due. who has this brace and has solved the pan problem with it? I am definately trying to solve this for the long run. thanx for the info.

 

No problem. The only time my FD has never leaked from the pan is right now, and that is after I installed the brace. It's actually a gotham product, btw.

To the thread starter, you dont have to pull the motor. Drop the front subframe and do it from underneath. I would look into some urethane motor mounts while you are at it, I absolutely love mine. You will need a lift to do the job.

 

what's the verdict on the urathane mounts. rattles? vibrations? I have heard so many conflicting storys. what is your take?

 

No rattles, no vibrations at all. I love the mounts. The stockers go bad too frequently. These should be for life, and the drivetrain/shifting feels more responsive as well. No regrets whatsoever

 

this is what my passenger side mount area looks like. I spilled a little coolant while I was filling up the radiator. thats why you see a little green on there. I t looks like it is coming from the pass side rear corner of the oil pan or that motor mount. this is why I am going to replace the mounts and reseal the oil pan. and then install the oil pan brace. I hope to god this works. I am so torn on which mounts I should get. I just don't want excessive rattles. I also don't want to ever have to do this again. what is up?

 

Can the oil pan and mounts be changed with the car on jack stands? Just wanted to know if this is something I can actually do myself.

Thanks,
Shogun

 

Sonix, degrease the entire underside, wipe it down and the culprit shall reveal itself to you .

 

eh, i wouldnt attempt it. You have to drop the entire front subframe, and I doubt there is room with the car on jackstands. Would be much much easier with a lift.

 

what if i don't have access to a lift i changed the clutch on jackstands....is this not possible? thanks rich

 

What does an oilpan brace look like anyway? tia

 

here ya go

 

Hm, I really don't know man. Where there is a will there is a way. Would have to get the car up high enough for clearance when the subframe comes down. Only one way to find out