no.... how necesary is it

familar with auto repair been fixing and maintaining cars for severial years

 

You'll need it for the torque settings and correct repair sequence. A must have for anyone wrenching on an FD3S - no matter what your experience. It will save you untold grief.

This car is a whole 'nother beast - like working on a flying saucer!

 

Factory gasket, Permatex silicone sealant, and Staffs Auto Oil Pan brace. The brace ~0.25 inch thick, and mounts externally to the oil pan. You'll need longer 10-mm oil pan bolts, and longer engine mount bolts. I've had my oil pan resealed with the brace installed. The oil pan is bone dry. Click here, and scroll to the bottom left-hand side http://www.staffsauto.com/

 

site is awesome *THANKS*

 

If you have to take the Tranny out for some other reason like a clutch or 5th gear synchro you can easily reseal the oil pan WITHOUT dropping the subframe. Once the tranny is out, the engine will raise high enough to do the pan with plenty of room to spare. Make sure you remove the IC piping so you don't stress it when you lift the engine.

 

i changed my oil pan 2 times....lucky the 2nd time around did the job.....i didn't know better i listend to a machanic....he told me that if i used a gasket i didn't need sillicone and i used sillicone i didn't need a gasket.....so what i did was installed a new gasket without sillicone.....u gessed it...the next day it leaked!!! so what i did was bought a new oil pan (aprox $135 from mazdatrix) anohter new gasket (aprox $30) and a tube of sillicone from the dealer (aprox $35) ...this time i waited a day so that the sillicone can harden(just wanted to reasure myself) it worked!! as far as taking out and replacing the oil pan, i jacked up the motor from the tranny....removed and then reinstalled the pan by sliding it through that tight space....it's a bitch having to unstall the motormounths and stuff......good luck!

 

/\ i did mine that way also. be careful with the pick up tube. a pair of gear drive wrences makes life easier 2. the key is doing the dimpling method and using like 2 cans of brake clean. and copious amonts of sealent.

 

ooh yeah i forgot to mention the oil pick up tube....u can stick a rachet in and loosen the nuts(2 of them)....when u install the pan back....make sure u don't forget to reinstall it the same way....slide in the pan first then between the crack of the block and oil pan install the oil tube....it's a bitch....

 

found this to be a little odd, the oil level sensor didnt have a gasket nor any sealant on it. is this normal

 

Mine doesent have any either. It didnt leak.

I tried just using permatex...and it still leaked.

I will be using a gasket and permatex this time. I also got a wire brush and just cleaned the oil pan and the mating surface on the block.

I'm going to use black Permatex called "the right stuff." It comes in a aresol can, which makes laying a nice bead easy.

 

Bobby...Call me when you do the oil pan. I'll take care of it for you

 

It has an O ring that must be replaced as well. Take a little closer look...

Of course EVERYONE will tell you it does not need to be replaced...

 

thanks i will look for the o-ring