oil metering pump removal question
#26
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I'm sorry, but I must be thick or something. I don't understand:
"ok, if you remove the oil metering pump, you can run synthetic oil because it doesnt get into your combustion chamber."
Whether you use the OMP or premix, the oil goes into the combustion chamber. With the former it's injected (dribbled), with the latter it's there with the fuel.
The RX-8 owners manual recommends NOT using synthetic. Perhaps they just want to sell more engines .
In my 2 stroke motorcycles I found synthetic worked better than non. My Can Am 175 required the head to be pulled every 3000 mi. to decarbonize. Once I switched to synthetic, it was unnecessary. No carbon built up.
"ok, if you remove the oil metering pump, you can run synthetic oil because it doesnt get into your combustion chamber."
Whether you use the OMP or premix, the oil goes into the combustion chamber. With the former it's injected (dribbled), with the latter it's there with the fuel.
The RX-8 owners manual recommends NOT using synthetic. Perhaps they just want to sell more engines .
In my 2 stroke motorcycles I found synthetic worked better than non. My Can Am 175 required the head to be pulled every 3000 mi. to decarbonize. Once I switched to synthetic, it was unnecessary. No carbon built up.
#27
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Originally posted by David Beale
In my 2 stroke motorcycles I found synthetic worked better than non. My Can Am 175 required the head to be pulled every 3000 mi. to decarbonize. Once I switched to synthetic, it was unnecessary. No carbon built up.
In my 2 stroke motorcycles I found synthetic worked better than non. My Can Am 175 required the head to be pulled every 3000 mi. to decarbonize. Once I switched to synthetic, it was unnecessary. No carbon built up.
One thing to keep in mind, though, is that two-stroke oils are specially designed to burn w/o residue.
#29
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The synthetic I use in my m/c's doesn't actually burn. It sprays out the exhaust, slightly blackened. I now have an RZ350 and a DT200 (water cooled power valved etc). I'd use it in my RX but I have an oil pan leak and the synthetic would pour out.
#30
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what made me go with this is because i will be running single soon and want the protection of a synthetic in my motor. its true that i dont know a whole lot about the function of the oil metering pump but while i was at Rotary Power where my motor is getting rebuilt, he told me that it cant burn in the combustion chamber so you get carbon buildup. he showed me the motor because it was all apart. he said the carbon buildup was really bad, the apex seals came out harder than normal.
#33
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Bah, it's easy for any rotary to have a shitload of carbon build-up in the combustion chambers. It doesn't take synthetic to do that.....mechanics aren't chemists either.
Besides, what the hell does going single have to do with removing the OMP? Also, do you honestly think your motor is going to last long enough with a single turbo to suffer from any oil-related failures?
Besides, what the hell does going single have to do with removing the OMP? Also, do you honestly think your motor is going to last long enough with a single turbo to suffer from any oil-related failures?
#35
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Originally posted by rzograbian
no, i just want the added protection of a synthetic. this wasnt suppose to turn into another debate.
no, i just want the added protection of a synthetic. this wasnt suppose to turn into another debate.
#36
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Originally posted by Godzilla-T78
Synthetic Oil being jetted into the combustion chambers isnt a good idea.. Its not combustable like dino oil is..This has been talked about a million an done times.. do a search and see your self.
Synthetic Oil being jetted into the combustion chambers isnt a good idea.. Its not combustable like dino oil is..This has been talked about a million an done times.. do a search and see your self.
What is true, is that synthetics have advanced a huge amount since Mazda recommended against them.
PS. I also use sythetics because Pettit recommends/recommended it
Last edited by PVerdieck; 02-18-04 at 06:23 PM.
#37
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally posted by rzograbian
...but while i was at Rotary Power where my motor is getting rebuilt, he told me that it cant burn in the combustion chamber so you get carbon buildup. he showed me the motor because it was all apart. he said the carbon buildup was really bad, the apex seals came out harder than normal.
...but while i was at Rotary Power where my motor is getting rebuilt, he told me that it cant burn in the combustion chamber so you get carbon buildup. he showed me the motor because it was all apart. he said the carbon buildup was really bad, the apex seals came out harder than normal.
The oil deposits that David Beale refers to are due to a two-stroke motorcycle engine's relatively high oil/fuel intake mixture ratio (necessary because the ball bearing crankshaft depends on the intake mixture for its oil supply), and it's comparatively poor combustion characteristics at part-throttle/lower rpm settings.
People think that just because synthetic oil can withstand high temperatures better than dino oil that it "doesn't burn". Try heating a small amount with an acetylene torch and let us know what happens.
#38
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Originally posted by Kento
People think that just because synthetic oil can withstand high temperatures better than dino oil that it "doesn't burn". Try heating a small amount with an acetylene torch and let us know what happens.
People think that just because synthetic oil can withstand high temperatures better than dino oil that it "doesn't burn". Try heating a small amount with an acetylene torch and let us know what happens.
Anyway, I'm thinking of running this on some Mobil 1 and a few dino oils that I have laying around the garage. The test results will give the thermal stability and the amount of carbon-black left over after heating. I think it would be interesting to see what the results are.
#40
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally posted by paw140
Here at school I have access to an instrument called a Thermogravimetric Analyzer (TGA). Basically you load up about 10 mg of a material, and it heats it up at a controlled rate in either an air or nitrogren atmosphere, and monitors weight loss. We use it mainly to test for thermal stability of various compounds.
Anyway, I'm thinking of running this on some Mobil 1 and a few dino oils that I have laying around the garage. The test results will give the thermal stability and the amount of carbon-black left over after heating. I think it would be interesting to see what the results are.
Here at school I have access to an instrument called a Thermogravimetric Analyzer (TGA). Basically you load up about 10 mg of a material, and it heats it up at a controlled rate in either an air or nitrogren atmosphere, and monitors weight loss. We use it mainly to test for thermal stability of various compounds.
Anyway, I'm thinking of running this on some Mobil 1 and a few dino oils that I have laying around the garage. The test results will give the thermal stability and the amount of carbon-black left over after heating. I think it would be interesting to see what the results are.
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