Are there any tips, tricks, or procedures out there for removing the OMP? How hard is it? What do I need to remove? I tried searching but couldn't find anything.

 

I removed and replaced mine, which was pretty tricky since I didn't want to remove the turbos to do it. Each of the three bolts on the MOP required a different ratchet attachment.

I assume your question is more about a BOP and wiring etc., but if you want to know how I got the damn thing out, let me know.

 

Managed to get mine replaced without having to remove turbos. Tight quarters though. Upper left bolt is almost impossible to see, but it can be done. Took about an hour start to finish. Good luck & let me know if you need any more help.

 

Wow! I never even considered that the turbos might need to come out to do this. I'm glad its possible without turbo removal. First, I'm gonna check out the wiring and see if I can find a problem. But I might end up having to replace it, so I just wanted a heads-up on what I'm getting into.

Thanks

 

Hope you can find a used one or are independantly wealthy. I was quoted $1,400 from a dealership here in MA. I got a used on the forum for a couple hundred, no problems at all. Like I said before though, not much room to work...good luck.

 

Hey paw140,

It's not to difficult like everyone else has said. There are three 10mm (I if recall correctly) bolts that you can reach. If you are replacing the oil metering pump, do not forget to go order the eliptical shaped o-ring. And becareful how you reroute the electrical wiring for the OMP. If you do not place it properly it may get caught or snagged in one of your belts and get ripped out. You can usually get one on the forum for about $100 bucks. Good luck. Oh yeah, you have to remove the oil lines that go the engine...be very careful as they are made out of thin plastic and are usually very brittle now. Do not bend them to much or they will snap. Then you will find yourself in a much bigger project than you planned for -- since you have to take off the upper intake manifold and rats nest and other miscellaneous stuff to get to it... but that is another adventure in itself :p.

 

can you not just run without it, and premix religiously?

haltech users do this....right?

 

If I could somehow trick the computer into thinking the pump was working, I guess I could run without it. But I've read that it injects different amounts of oil depending on engine load, rpm, etc. Running premix wouldn't give the same control (I really don't know if it matters, though). I've also read that in order to trick the computer into thinking its working, it would take some elaborate setup, since the computer monitors the different positions of the stepper motor.

 

Ok guys, I started tearing into the car tonite, and I *almost* have the pump out. I checked out the wiring, and I don't see anything obviously wrong, and I can't even get to the plug without removing the pump. It is also leaking (like every other oil gasket on the car), so I'll replace the o-ring while I'm at it.

For those of you that had wiring problems with the OMP, where was your wiring bad?

Anyway, I have two of the three bolts removed. I'm having a little trouble with the upper rear bolt. It looks like it might be possible to get at without taking the turbos out (three of you guys said you did it). How did you guys get at this bolt?? I think I need to buy a larger variety of 1/4 drive extensions, and I think I might be able to get a socket on it.

So far, I have the airbox, intake hoses, belly pan, and turbo actuators removed so could get at the OMP. Does anything else need to come out?

MF Luder: I don't see how you did it start to finish in an hour. I've got about 1.5 hours in now. Am I taking out too much other stuff?

Thanks for the help!

 

even if the electrical part of the pump is not working. it will still work 50%. maybe just add a "little" pre-mix. i am now a haltech user and have it blocked off.

 

If only I had a haltech...

 

Bump

 

Can you still eliminate the OMP if you're using a Power FC??

 

Anyone in NJ willing to check/ replace my OMP for some bucks? (code 27 & limp mode) Can't afford mechanic labor and this stuff is out of my league.
Thanks so much..PM me or email
graziano
rockygraziano@comcast.net

 

will removing the OMP effect the power FC? Is there a setting on the PFC to disable it? I'm taking mine out as well~~~ yippy~~~!

 

No. The PFC monitors the OMP with the other sensors, but removing it will not affect it's function. It will simply be highlighted in the sensor check screen.

 

So if a guy has a Power FC, and he installs a block off plate for the pump, and then plugs the omp injector bungs, that is it, no other changes to anything (other than obviously premixing), correct? Just leave the harness clip be off the engine harness that went to the omp.

 

just premix and you should be ok. heck most of us premix even with the omp as it has been known to leak or all out fail.

should block off with 3x 10mm bolts. pretty straight forward simplification. Just remember to always premix or you could be in for a rude awakening.

search around and you can purchase OMP block off plates.

 

if that "dealer" isn't Ray from Malloy Mazda then that quote is crap.

 

We now have a kit that includes the OMP block off plate and the properly sized metric port plugs for the oil injectors.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_FD_omp_bop.htm

 

banzai to the rescue!!

 

Oh I'm so going to premix on this build now. Now I won't have to wonder if the pump is working or not.

 

pineappleracing.com also has a kit for the removal just for anyone else wondering. I know this is old but bump it up for noobs
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=51
3.95
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=104
8.95

 

That's fantastic for someone that wants to mess up their rotor housings with American pipe thread fittings in a metric hole. May as well just go to Home Depot's racing department and save a few dollars on shipping. They screw in about one thread before that start causing damage...

..While they are actually an american pipe plug..

Why not spend a few extra dollars and do it the correct way?

 

So you're saying that pineapple racing is using the wrong pitch threads?