oil metering lines, Question???
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
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The lines will only fit one way, but it doesn't matter which goes to which rotor. They both get the same amount of oil pumped to the injector - the rotor coming by on the intake stroke is what sucks the oil out of the injector.
Dale
Dale
#5
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
rotor coming by on the intake stroke is what sucks the oil out of the injector.
Dale
Dale
How FD OMP works
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
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I'm not 100% certain of the mechanism, but the OMP does also function with a pressure differential of some sort. There's a check valve built into it, and you have differing pressures at the injector due to the vacuum line going to the top of the OMP.
Anyhow, thanks for the clarification - I was just trying to give a layman's idea to show that *when* the oil is injected is mechanical, not like a fuel injector that needs to spray at the proper rotor position, thereby alleviating the worry of reversing the lines.
Dale
Anyhow, thanks for the clarification - I was just trying to give a layman's idea to show that *when* the oil is injected is mechanical, not like a fuel injector that needs to spray at the proper rotor position, thereby alleviating the worry of reversing the lines.
Dale
#7
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I just learned this week about the check valve function of the oil injector nozzles (thanks Rick). The check valve is necessary to prevent boost from blowing oil right back down the vacuum lines leading to the turbos. I wonder how many people have thought their turbos were bad and blowing oil when their oil nozzles had failed instead....
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#8
I have aftermarket stainless lines, and i cant find the stockies to lay them out.
So i guess it doesnt matter which way they go
thanks
Rynberg: I meant was, if each rotor was fed the same amount at all times or going back and forth from front to back. my bad for the confusion
So i guess it doesnt matter which way they go
thanks
Rynberg: I meant was, if each rotor was fed the same amount at all times or going back and forth from front to back. my bad for the confusion
Last edited by HAI-TEK7; 04-21-05 at 10:18 PM.
#9
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I just learned this week about the check valve function of the oil injector nozzles (thanks Rick). The check valve is necessary to prevent boost from blowing oil right back down the vacuum lines leading to the turbos. I wonder how many people have thought their turbos were bad and blowing oil when their oil nozzles had failed instead....
Where those vacuum lines go? I have BOTH vacuum lines completely swallen with oil and blown from OMP nozzles. Then oil leaked down the block.
If there is no vacuum/pressure on those lines what's their function?
Thanks!
#14
Senior Member
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Since intake sucking air - there is enough to draw that oil into turbo.
I took turbos to rebuilder and also my primary turbo a little weak - he said that there is no way it was pushing oil. So, all oil came from OMP injectors into intake. And I got plenty of it...
#15
Lets Go Hokies!
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Source air? Why do they need to source air? I understand it that vacuum hoses on oil injectors is nothing but a solution to collect spit out oil (which shouldn't be spit out)
Since intake sucking air - there is enough to draw that oil into turbo.
I took turbos to rebuilder and also my primary turbo a little weak - he said that there is no way it was pushing oil. So, all oil came from OMP injectors into intake. And I got plenty of it...
Since intake sucking air - there is enough to draw that oil into turbo.
I took turbos to rebuilder and also my primary turbo a little weak - he said that there is no way it was pushing oil. So, all oil came from OMP injectors into intake. And I got plenty of it...
#18
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As to your other post about the lines being filled with oil... your injectors check valves have failed and you need to replace them. Do them both since you will be that far in anyways. Mine did this exact thing about 4 months ago. I also experienced fouled plugs every 4k miles. As well when the injectors REALLY failed completely( just started dumping oil into the intake under boost. Because the check valves were bad ), the ignition would break up when any boost was added. All the symptoms I had when they failed. I have a single turbo but the theory is exactly the same.
#19
Lets Go Hokies!
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The only time there should be a decent vacuum in the intake elbow is under boost when the turbo is really pulling air through the intake, increasing the velocity and fighting the filter. But remember that when the turbos are creating positive pressure in the manifolds and intake chamber, the check valve in the oil injector is going to be closed. No air is going to flow from the injector to the intake.
When the engine is pulling vacuum the check valve is open and needs to draw in filtered air, which is why I think Mazda used the primary intake elbow.
I don't have any documentation either, so this is all speculation on my part.
Here is something else to think about: what do the 2nd gen NA guys do? I'm pretty sure the oil injectors draw air from BEFORE the throttle body plates. Yep... no vacuum for them.
#20
In the burnout box...
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I'm lost as to what questions are still up in the air.... Soooo
1) Take each valve out of the block and blow through them. Now try to suck air back in or rotate it around and try to blow through. They are to only work one way. If they are letting air backwards they will be sucking in oil to your turbo/turbos.
2) the location of each line to the correct rotor housing is... The bottom port on the OMP goes to the front rotor housing. The top port goes to the rear rotor housing. They should be wrapped behind and around the water pump housing.
This should be all of the questions for this thread. LMK if there's any other questions or confusion.
1) Take each valve out of the block and blow through them. Now try to suck air back in or rotate it around and try to blow through. They are to only work one way. If they are letting air backwards they will be sucking in oil to your turbo/turbos.
2) the location of each line to the correct rotor housing is... The bottom port on the OMP goes to the front rotor housing. The top port goes to the rear rotor housing. They should be wrapped behind and around the water pump housing.
This should be all of the questions for this thread. LMK if there's any other questions or confusion.
#21
Senior Member
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As to your other post about the lines being filled with oil... your injectors check valves have failed and you need to replace them. Do them both since you will be that far in anyways. Mine did this exact thing about 4 months ago. I also experienced fouled plugs every 4k miles. As well when the injectors REALLY failed completely( just started dumping oil into the intake under boost. Because the check valves were bad ), the ignition would break up when any boost was added. All the symptoms I had when they failed. I have a single turbo but the theory is exactly the same.
Bingo. Good thing I didn't drive for long time like that. Intake was filled with oil and vacuum hoses connected to nozzles completely swallen and let oil go to the block and down making mess. Lookslike pan leaking near motor mounts but I tracked it all way up.
I took nozzles out 10 minutes ago and sure thing front rotor one blows opposite way. It seem to be "working" allowing to suck air out but not blow in. Just opposite of what needed.
Hopefully all that extra oil in intake were enough to lubricate front rotor.
I'm in more stuff since I'm there anyway... I think I will DIY meter lines, they like $60 new.
#22
Mr. Links
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The only time there should be a decent vacuum in the intake elbow is under boost when the turbo is really pulling air through the intake, increasing the velocity and fighting the filter. But remember that when the turbos are creating positive pressure in the manifolds and intake chamber, the check valve in the oil injector is going to be closed. No air is going to flow from the injector to the intake.
When the engine is pulling vacuum the check valve is open and needs to draw in filtered air, which is why I think Mazda used the primary intake elbow.
Here is something else to think about: what do the 2nd gen NA guys do? I'm pretty sure the oil injectors draw air from BEFORE the throttle body plates. Yep... no vacuum for them.
Here is something else to think about: what do the 2nd gen NA guys do? I'm pretty sure the oil injectors draw air from BEFORE the throttle body plates. Yep... no vacuum for them.
1. To help meter the oil being sucked in. Without vacuum pulling in the opposite direction, the engine under vacuum would consume more oil as it would be "sucking" the oil through the lines. Thus rendering the metering sort of pointless.
2. To help ensure the oil injection lines are not empty when the valve closes (so the OMP doesn't have to fill the lines complete again to supply more oil).
Many shops cap the oil injectors when doing single turbo upgrades. So whatever the "exact" purpose of them doesn't seem to greatly effect people who remove them.
#23
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I have read most of the threads on this subject, but it all seems to be speculation. I figured you ("Mr. Links" ) might have the best chance of finding any kind of 'official' documentation describing the purpose of these vacuum lines.
Basically, there seems to be a consenses of several ideas/functions:
1. To help meter the oil being sucked in. Without vacuum pulling in the opposite direction, the engine under vacuum would consume more oil as it would be "sucking" the oil through the lines. Thus rendering the metering sort of pointless.
2. To help ensure the oil injection lines are not empty when the valve closes (so the OMP doesn't have to fill the lines complete again to supply more oil).
Many shops cap the oil injectors when doing single turbo upgrades. So whatever the "exact" purpose of them doesn't seem to greatly effect people who remove them.
1: The vacuum from the intake chamber will be MUCH greater than whatever vacuum there is in the intake elbow.
2: Maybe... not really sure how it would keep the lines full though. I will have to dissect one of the injectors some day.
To be honest right now I think the best thing to do is just cap off the injectors and let the OMP do its job. It doesn't seem like the vacuum line really affects its function. I have clear OMP lines now, so I can make sure the oil is flowing.
#24
Mr. Links
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https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...33&postcount=2
I suppose he's more creditable.
#25
Lets Go Hokies!
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Yes, he is. Thanks for the link.
However, there is still the question of why NA 2nd gens do not apply vacuum to the oil injectors. The injector part number is the same for 2nd and 3rd gens, so no difference there. From a quick search it looks like they draw filtered *atmospheric* air from before the throttle plates.
However, there is still the question of why NA 2nd gens do not apply vacuum to the oil injectors. The injector part number is the same for 2nd and 3rd gens, so no difference there. From a quick search it looks like they draw filtered *atmospheric* air from before the throttle plates.
The vacuum is coming from the rotors during their cycle. The vacuum is from the rotor chamber NOT from the throttle body. The *vacuum*hose on top of each oil injector goes to the spider. The spider runs to the large nipple on the back of the throttle body on a turbo and the large nipple on the front of a N/A. The passage in the throttle body leads to a quarter inch hole in front of the throttle plates. Therefore there is no vacuum coming from the throttle body. Its filtered air.
Yes, the flow of air is one way. Towards the rotor housing. Suction from the rotor. No air pump involvement.
Yes, the flow of air is one way. Towards the rotor housing. Suction from the rotor. No air pump involvement.
Last edited by afterburn27; 01-03-08 at 10:19 PM.