Oil leak found, FRONT COVER GASKET!
10-02-06, 02:15 PM
#1
Oil leak found, FRONT COVER GASKET!
look like the smoking i have been getting and the coating of the underside of the car....oil hits the exhaust and burns up in smoke into the cabin through vents....had the car checked out definately the front cover gasket and a few oil cooler lines
all shops in my area want around 1k to fix this issue
how hard of a job is this to do myself, what tools are required (anything special like bearing pullers or something?)
i figured basically remove radiator, airpump, water pump, power steering pump, alternator, intercooler, air hoses, a/c compressor....then take off the pullets and cover replace gasket and reinstall....how many hours am i looking at with small air compressor and jack stands w/ basic sockets and new oem gaskets / oil hoses
all shops in my area want around 1k to fix this issue
how hard of a job is this to do myself, what tools are required (anything special like bearing pullers or something?)
i figured basically remove radiator, airpump, water pump, power steering pump, alternator, intercooler, air hoses, a/c compressor....then take off the pullets and cover replace gasket and reinstall....how many hours am i looking at with small air compressor and jack stands w/ basic sockets and new oem gaskets / oil hoses
10-02-06, 02:24 PM
#2
make sure when you take the front pulley off you don't let the thrust bearings slip:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
becuase of this i wouldn't let a shop do the repair unless they had worked on 13bs before or knew to take this precaution.
you probalby have to drop the oil pan too.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
becuase of this i wouldn't let a shop do the repair unless they had worked on 13bs before or knew to take this precaution.
you probalby have to drop the oil pan too.
10-02-06, 02:32 PM
#3
You will also need to remove the water pump housing, oil metering pump and the oil pan. The latter is the biggest pain of the entire project. As far as the power steering and the AC compressor, there is a bracket they ride on that can be unbolted from the side of the block that allows you to just swing them out of the way to give you more clearance. It will save you having to unhook AC lines and PS lines. If your oil metering lines are old and brittle, then you will need to remove them as well which means going under the UIM. Removing the eccentric shaft pulley hub will involve heating the bolt as it has been "loctited" on. In short, it may be worth the $1K if you are not deeply committed to auto mechanics.
10-02-06, 02:37 PM
#5
so begin by removing the oil pan first? jack up the tranny pull the mounts and drop the oil pan out then remove the other stuff? when i get to the drive pulley...what exactly needs to be done...seems like that faq is showing more than just removing the front cover
10-02-06, 03:01 PM
#6
^^The e-shaft pulley bolt is secured in the e-shaft with loctite. You will not be able to simply burp this off with your air gun. You will need to heat the bolt with a torch for about 5 minutes first and then hit it with your impact wrench. Make sure you do not catch anything else on fire.
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10-02-06, 04:57 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Monsterbox
...seems like that faq is showing more than just removing the front cover
10-02-06, 06:37 PM
#9
White is tight
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10-02-06, 06:42 PM
#10
Originally Posted by alexdimen
did you even bother to read it? the pictures of the assembly are outside of an engine to better illustrate how the problem can occur and what the resulting damage is. if you want a guide to doing this service you need to look at the fsm or figure it out.
- i do not understand how to remove it without moving the bearing forward? what are you NOT supposed to do when you loosen the front bolt to the pulley (this is the one you heat?)
10-02-06, 07:02 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Monsterbox
yes, i did read it.
- i do not understand how to remove it without moving the bearing forward? what are you NOT supposed to do when you loosen the front bolt to the pulley (this is the one you heat?)
- i do not understand how to remove it without moving the bearing forward? what are you NOT supposed to do when you loosen the front bolt to the pulley (this is the one you heat?)
Originally Posted by MAZDATRIX
3) For 93-95's you need to do something to wedge the flywheel forward - easiest we have done is a small piece of wood up through the inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. With the wood between the pressure plate and the bellhousing. Do something to hold it there, because if you rotate the engine while trying to get the bolt loose, the wood will fall out.
What any of the above steps will do is to hold the rear torrington bearing in place against the thrust plate - keeping it from dropping out of place if the spacer moves forward.
What any of the above steps will do is to hold the rear torrington bearing in place against the thrust plate - keeping it from dropping out of place if the spacer moves forward.
10-02-06, 07:05 PM
#13
Originally Posted by alexdimen
did you even bother to read it? the pictures of the assembly are outside of an engine to better illustrate how the problem can occur and what the resulting damage is. if you want a guide to doing this service you need to look at the fsm or figure it out.
10-02-06, 07:12 PM
#15
Originally Posted by jd to rescue
I'm not sure I understand your concern either. The thrust bearing should not shift in this process. He is not going to be unbolting the collar on the front side plate to change the gasket.
when you loosen this assembly, a spacer/thrust bearing can slip out of place. then, when you tighten it all back down it will crush the thrust bearing because it's overlapping it.
10-02-06, 11:31 PM
#21
10-03-06, 12:35 AM
#22
White is tight
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Originally Posted by fdeeznutz
This is a better fix IMO than globing the right stuff on the front cover. It was only $15 bucks through Malloy.
10-03-06, 07:34 AM
#23
10-03-06, 07:45 AM
#24
Perpetual Rebuilder
Two things:
First - changing out the front cover gasket while the engine was in the car was the worst project I have ever done. I will pull the engine next time I have to do it without 1 seconds thought. I'm not sure if it is "pay someone 1K" bad but I have had alot of days in the garage with my rx7 and this one was by far the worst.
Second - If you use a sealant instead of a gasket you have to do something with the oil channel that goes to the front cover or you will end up blocking it. I recommend the metal gasket (the one made for the rx7). If you go the other route let me know and I will dig up some pics of the procedure for drilling that oil channel.
First - changing out the front cover gasket while the engine was in the car was the worst project I have ever done. I will pull the engine next time I have to do it without 1 seconds thought. I'm not sure if it is "pay someone 1K" bad but I have had alot of days in the garage with my rx7 and this one was by far the worst.
Second - If you use a sealant instead of a gasket you have to do something with the oil channel that goes to the front cover or you will end up blocking it. I recommend the metal gasket (the one made for the rx7). If you go the other route let me know and I will dig up some pics of the procedure for drilling that oil channel.
Last edited by shawnk; 10-03-06 at 07:54 AM.
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