I have a oil leak where the oil level sensor connects to the oil pan. I get about a baseball size diameter oil drip overnight. I purchased a O ring for it but havent had time to get around to it yet. Its been over a month since my last oil change and my dip stick still reads to the full line. How accurate are the dip stick? After loosing that much oil it should read to lower level. My last oil change the lube place put in 4.3L so I hope they never overfilled it.

 

a oil leak like that is not big enough to show a decrease on a dipstick over a one month period.....to the naked eye anyway.

the dipstick is plenty accurate
4.3L of oil seems to be a tad on the low side after an oil change..so they definetly didnt over fill it.......i would be more concerned on how long they let it drain.

 

Are you sure about that? I think it states 3.9L in the manual and for my last change I put in 4L and was dead center on the dipstick.

 

dead center on the dipstick means u can still add approx another half litre to put it @ the full mark..
i use @ least 4.5L when i change my oil and let it drain for the better part of an hr
probably closer to 5L when all said and done

 

So would it be safe to say to add more oil even though the dip stick is on full?

 

no...dont add more oil if dipstick is reading full

 

Ok I wont add any oil but will keep on checking the oil levels.

 

Well its been since last year since I had my oil leak. I fixed the problem by replaceing the O-ring for the Oil level sensor. Now I have a leak from my oil pan. I got my oil change 3 weeks ago and loosing alot of oil as I can see it on my drive way. I check my dip stick every week and it still reads full. Not sure how the engine is keeping its oil in there still. The Oil change place had put in 4.3L and they did tell me that I need to change my oil pan gasket. Does anyone know how hard it is? Does it require to lift the engine to get at it? I called Mazda Canada and they told me its about a 5 hour job but you know the Dealers they always times it by 2. Let me know guys. Thanks in advance.

 

5 hours is very fair for the oil pan. Although it is physically not that hard with a lift, it is still a scumbag messy job. Just about every oil pan will eventually leak due to the poor design. I would definitely install either a Gotham Racing or Garfinkle oil pan brace to give it a fighting chance. Also, do NOT use the gasket. It is junk. I use "the right stuff" by permatex. This would also be a good time to change the motor mounts/upgrade them. The driver's one ALWAYS breaks in time.

 

Thanks for the reply "Rotary Experiment 7". So you figure not to use the factory oil pan gasket? Where can a person get the permatex sealer from?

 

I was under the impression that you had to lift the engine to install an oil pan brace. Am I wrong (again as usual)?

 

Permatex "The Right Stuff" gasket maker is availible at all popular automotive suppliers. And yes, Rotary Experiment is correct...do not the use the factory oil pan gasket. Use an aftermarket brace and ONLY the gasket sealer mentioned. Remeber that surface prep is everything when performing this job. All mating surfaces must be clean and free of any gasket and/or oil residue. Don't rush and ask us if you have a question. You don't won't to do it twice.

And dhays, you don't have to lift the engine but simply support it from the top as you are removing the subframe and, therefore, the engines mounting system. This job, resealing the oil pan and installing a brace, will require the use of an engine hoist or the Mazda SST metioned in the FSM. Either way, the engine has to be supported by some other means so you can remove the subframe.

 

Check out this thread:


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...easier+oil+pan

Dave

 

Good thread but if you are considering fixing that leak, an oil pan brace is an easy solution. If you choose this upgrade, the method in the thread may not work. Oil pan braces require ditching the stock bolts for studs and nuts and will require more working room.

 

Ok so I am going to take my car to the shop. I would do it my self but im soo gonna mess something up lol. Going to buy the Permatex Silicone tonight. What else should I do to save me money? I would like to do everything all at once. Someone mention motor mounts should be on the list. I was thinking Oil cooler lines. Let me know if theres anything else.

 

Hmmmm.... Didn't think about that...

Dave

 

Thanks for the info. I don't have a engine hoist so that pretty much leaves that out. I don't have a leak, but have wondered about an oil pan brace to avoid getting a leak.

Edit: Just another thought, can you replace the engine mounts the same way? Supporting the engine from above with a hoist without actually removing it?

Thanks for the link. That would work OK for replacing the pan in the event of a leak, but not for installing an oil pan brace.

I'll just pray that I don't develop an oil pan leak any time soon. I'm spending way too much money on parts for the car. I need to start saving up for a catastrophic failure of some kind.

 

Not worth installing a brace as a preventative measure. Wait until it leaks, the re-seal it properly and install a brace.

 

Yes you can replace the engine mounts the same way. Pulling the pan requires pulling the engine mounts. Also,just so you know, if you install an oil pan brace the engine mounts require longer bolts to compensate for the brace thickness. These bolts will usually come with the brace kit.

Agreed. If you install a brace on your current setup it may actually cause a leak as a brace introduces new pressure points on the oil pan flange. If it's not leaking, don't touch it...not even with a brace.

 

Yeah, probably right. And if I'm lucky it will never leak.

 

I learn new stuff everyday here. Thanks!