Oil leak but not loosing oil??
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Oil leak but not loosing oil??
I have a oil leak where the oil level sensor connects to the oil pan. I get about a baseball size diameter oil drip overnight. I purchased a O ring for it but havent had time to get around to it yet. Its been over a month since my last oil change and my dip stick still reads to the full line. How accurate are the dip stick? After loosing that much oil it should read to lower level. My last oil change the lube place put in 4.3L so I hope they never overfilled it.
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a oil leak like that is not big enough to show a decrease on a dipstick over a one month period.....to the naked eye anyway.
the dipstick is plenty accurate
4.3L of oil seems to be a tad on the low side after an oil change..so they definetly didnt over fill it.......i would be more concerned on how long they let it drain.
the dipstick is plenty accurate
4.3L of oil seems to be a tad on the low side after an oil change..so they definetly didnt over fill it.......i would be more concerned on how long they let it drain.
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dead center on the dipstick means u can still add approx another half litre to put it @ the full mark..
i use @ least 4.5L when i change my oil and let it drain for the better part of an hr
probably closer to 5L when all said and done
i use @ least 4.5L when i change my oil and let it drain for the better part of an hr
probably closer to 5L when all said and done
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Well its been since last year since I had my oil leak. I fixed the problem by replaceing the O-ring for the Oil level sensor. Now I have a leak from my oil pan. I got my oil change 3 weeks ago and loosing alot of oil as I can see it on my drive way. I check my dip stick every week and it still reads full. Not sure how the engine is keeping its oil in there still. The Oil change place had put in 4.3L and they did tell me that I need to change my oil pan gasket. Does anyone know how hard it is? Does it require to lift the engine to get at it? I called Mazda Canada and they told me its about a 5 hour job but you know the Dealers they always times it by 2. Let me know guys. Thanks in advance.
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5 hours is very fair for the oil pan. Although it is physically not that hard with a lift, it is still a scumbag messy job. Just about every oil pan will eventually leak due to the poor design. I would definitely install either a Gotham Racing or Garfinkle oil pan brace to give it a fighting chance. Also, do NOT use the gasket. It is junk. I use "the right stuff" by permatex. This would also be a good time to change the motor mounts/upgrade them. The driver's one ALWAYS breaks in time.
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Thanks for the reply "Rotary Experiment 7". So you figure not to use the factory oil pan gasket? Where can a person get the permatex sealer from?
Last edited by 2fast4u_rx7; 05-07-08 at 06:48 PM.
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Although it is physically not that hard with a lift, it is still a scumbag messy job. Just about every oil pan will eventually leak due to the poor design. I would definitely install either a Gotham Racing or Garfinkle oil pan brace to give it a fighting chance. Also, do NOT use the gasket. It is junk. I use "the right stuff" by permatex. This would also be a good time to change the motor mounts/upgrade them. The driver's one ALWAYS breaks in time.
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And dhays, you don't have to lift the engine but simply support it from the top as you are removing the subframe and, therefore, the engines mounting system. This job, resealing the oil pan and installing a brace, will require the use of an engine hoist or the Mazda SST metioned in the FSM. Either way, the engine has to be supported by some other means so you can remove the subframe.
Last edited by sbnrx7; 05-07-08 at 10:15 PM.
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Ok so I am going to take my car to the shop. I would do it my self but im soo gonna mess something up lol. Going to buy the Permatex Silicone tonight. What else should I do to save me money? I would like to do everything all at once. Someone mention motor mounts should be on the list. I was thinking Oil cooler lines. Let me know if theres anything else.
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And dhays, you don't have to lift the engine but simply support it from the top as you are removing the subframe and, therefore, the engines mounting system. This job, resealing the oil pan and installing a brace, will require the use of an engine hoist or the Mazda SST metioned in the FSM. Either way, the engine has to be supported by some other means so you can remove the subframe.
Edit: Just another thought, can you replace the engine mounts the same way? Supporting the engine from above with a hoist without actually removing it?
Check out this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...easier+oil+pan
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...easier+oil+pan
I'll just pray that I don't develop an oil pan leak any time soon. I'm spending way too much money on parts for the car. I need to start saving up for a catastrophic failure of some kind.
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Thanks for the info. I don't have a engine hoist so that pretty much leaves that out. I don't have a leak, but have wondered about an oil pan brace to avoid getting a leak.
Edit: Just another thought, can you replace the engine mounts the same way? Supporting the engine from above with a hoist without actually removing it?
Edit: Just another thought, can you replace the engine mounts the same way? Supporting the engine from above with a hoist without actually removing it?
Agreed. If you install a brace on your current setup it may actually cause a leak as a brace introduces new pressure points on the oil pan flange. If it's not leaking, don't touch it...not even with a brace.
Last edited by sbnrx7; 05-08-08 at 10:30 PM.
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Yes you can replace the engine mounts the same way. Pulling the pan requires pulling the engine mounts. Also,just so you know, if you install an oil pan brace the engine mounts require longer bolts to compensate for the brace thickness. These bolts will usually come with the brace kit.
Agreed. If you install a brace on your current setup it may actually cause a leak as a brace introduces new pressure points on the oil pan flange.
Agreed. If you install a brace on your current setup it may actually cause a leak as a brace introduces new pressure points on the oil pan flange.
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