oil coolers
08-07-03, 08:31 PM
#1
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oil coolers
I am in need of a new oil cooler. Could I use a very large oil cooler and somehow front mount it or is there a limit to the size of oil cooler that i can use? BTW, the cooler size is 28"x4.5"x4". How could i make this work?
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08-08-03, 05:18 PM
#8
Re's are bigger than CWRs, but REs don't come w/ ducts. The tight-fitting CF ducts from CWR, are what prompted me to go w/ theirs... pluss, unless you've got a nose w/ larger openings, i'm not sure the airflow would be there for the larger RE set.
CWR has '99 ducts too if i ever upgrade...
CWR has '99 ducts too if i ever upgrade...
03-16-04, 10:24 AM
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Originally posted by FD Racer
I've seen the CWR oil coolers...they are very nice. From what I hear, they do the job very well.
I've seen the CWR oil coolers...they are very nice. From what I hear, they do the job very well.
03-16-04, 05:02 PM
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Its just a car come on...
Anyway. You don't need ducts really...
Anything bigger than stock specially if you have only one stock cooler, and upgrading to dual bigger is sufficient.
Anyway. You don't need ducts really...
Anything bigger than stock specially if you have only one stock cooler, and upgrading to dual bigger is sufficient.
03-16-04, 06:24 PM
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Reza, you are very, very wrong. I put my CWR coolers in without ducts, originally sent wrong ones. Without ducts the CWR coolers get very, very hot. I actually touched one fixing a flat (drivers side) and burned myself very badly, I have a nice scar to remind me. When my ducts arrived I installed them and now I can touch the drivers cooler whenever I want and it is just a little warm. Passenger side is alot hotter, approximately 100degrees F.
If your approach works nobody would have a duct for an intercooler. Not to mention that Porsche I have always wanted would be a little cheaper.
Chris
If your approach works nobody would have a duct for an intercooler. Not to mention that Porsche I have always wanted would be a little cheaper.
Chris
03-16-04, 06:37 PM
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Chris, I would certainly be inclined to agree with you, but Reza has posted data on his oil temps during track days -- they are very cool. The Rotary Extreme setup does not have ducts nor does it seem to need them.
03-16-04, 11:43 PM
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Originally posted by manatecu
Reza, you are very, very wrong. I put my CWR coolers in without ducts, originally sent wrong ones. Without ducts the CWR coolers get very, very hot. I actually touched one fixing a flat (drivers side) and burned myself very badly, I have a nice scar to remind me. When my ducts arrived I installed them and now I can touch the drivers cooler whenever I want and it is just a little warm. Passenger side is alot hotter, approximately 100degrees F.
If your approach works nobody would have a duct for an intercooler. Not to mention that Porsche I have always wanted would be a little cheaper.
Chris
Reza, you are very, very wrong. I put my CWR coolers in without ducts, originally sent wrong ones. Without ducts the CWR coolers get very, very hot. I actually touched one fixing a flat (drivers side) and burned myself very badly, I have a nice scar to remind me. When my ducts arrived I installed them and now I can touch the drivers cooler whenever I want and it is just a little warm. Passenger side is alot hotter, approximately 100degrees F.
If your approach works nobody would have a duct for an intercooler. Not to mention that Porsche I have always wanted would be a little cheaper.
Chris
03-17-04, 01:05 AM
#17
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Well, I am pretty sure that the oil will be hotter than 100F !!!
I have my oil temperature sensor under the oil filter. This is the return of oil from the cooler. On average they are about 150-180F so far. With recent 80F weather and traffic, they could spike to about 195F. Otherwise while moving they average 180F.
You should know that the Oil-stat is 180F. So the only times the cooler is cooler than 180F, when the oil did not get past 180F. Thus no hot oil into the cooler.
I think that explains your situation. If I go on 100mph runs, the cooler is very cold, and the oil temp is about 150F. I can feel from the 4 oil lines which one is hot and not......
So something to think about.....
I have my oil temperature sensor under the oil filter. This is the return of oil from the cooler. On average they are about 150-180F so far. With recent 80F weather and traffic, they could spike to about 195F. Otherwise while moving they average 180F.
You should know that the Oil-stat is 180F. So the only times the cooler is cooler than 180F, when the oil did not get past 180F. Thus no hot oil into the cooler.
I think that explains your situation. If I go on 100mph runs, the cooler is very cold, and the oil temp is about 150F. I can feel from the 4 oil lines which one is hot and not......
So something to think about.....
Originally posted by manatecu
Reza, you are very, very wrong. I put my CWR coolers in without ducts, originally sent wrong ones. Without ducts the CWR coolers get very, very hot. I actually touched one fixing a flat (drivers side) and burned myself very badly, I have a nice scar to remind me. When my ducts arrived I installed them and now I can touch the drivers cooler whenever I want and it is just a little warm. Passenger side is alot hotter, approximately 100degrees F.
If your approach works nobody would have a duct for an intercooler. Not to mention that Porsche I have always wanted would be a little cheaper.
Chris
Reza, you are very, very wrong. I put my CWR coolers in without ducts, originally sent wrong ones. Without ducts the CWR coolers get very, very hot. I actually touched one fixing a flat (drivers side) and burned myself very badly, I have a nice scar to remind me. When my ducts arrived I installed them and now I can touch the drivers cooler whenever I want and it is just a little warm. Passenger side is alot hotter, approximately 100degrees F.
If your approach works nobody would have a duct for an intercooler. Not to mention that Porsche I have always wanted would be a little cheaper.
Chris
03-17-04, 07:58 AM
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Reza,
You may have actual data but I am lost.
The physics of air cooling involves the air moving next to hot surfaces. If there is not method of routing the air through the cooler experience says it will take the path of least resistance (around the cooler). This is one of the largest concerns with the FD cooling in general.
When I upgraded to a single I had radiator cooling issues after the install of my Greddy FMIC. The FMIC was not the problem it was that my radiator now had large gaps around it allowing the air to go around (Least resistant path) than traveling through the radiator and removing heat. I added ducting around the radiator and all my problems went away.
The same can be said for the single set up in general. Besides the reduced amount of heat in the bay there are two better paths for the air to take, basically ducting.
In conclusion, I would think because of the surface area of a very large oil cooler you are getting residual surface cooling but if you channeled the air through the cooler you would get more interior cooling and a better solution.
Chris
You may have actual data but I am lost.
The physics of air cooling involves the air moving next to hot surfaces. If there is not method of routing the air through the cooler experience says it will take the path of least resistance (around the cooler). This is one of the largest concerns with the FD cooling in general.
When I upgraded to a single I had radiator cooling issues after the install of my Greddy FMIC. The FMIC was not the problem it was that my radiator now had large gaps around it allowing the air to go around (Least resistant path) than traveling through the radiator and removing heat. I added ducting around the radiator and all my problems went away.
The same can be said for the single set up in general. Besides the reduced amount of heat in the bay there are two better paths for the air to take, basically ducting.
In conclusion, I would think because of the surface area of a very large oil cooler you are getting residual surface cooling but if you channeled the air through the cooler you would get more interior cooling and a better solution.
Chris
03-17-04, 08:39 AM
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Originally posted by manatecu
CWR installed with 99 CF ducts. Hard to see but you can see that they fit very snug.
Chris
CWR installed with 99 CF ducts. Hard to see but you can see that they fit very snug.
Chris
edit: i just noticed you have a mazdaspeed hood..... isnt your engine compartment filled with smow/ice
Last edited by RotorMotor; 03-17-04 at 08:41 AM.
03-17-04, 09:23 AM
#20
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Nope there is a metal grate over the openings. Usually I would cover the car but this was a freak freezing rain storm. All of the roads in the town were covered in about 1 inch of solid clear ice.
03-17-04, 09:32 AM
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Rynberg,
If you are only using your vechicle at the track I would be inclined to agree that ducting isn't that important. Simply because of the large amount of air that is being shoved into that space.
I only make it to the track two to three times a year. The rest of the time I drive it on the street. Stop and go traffic isn't going to provide the air flow that the track does. I think ducting becomes critical in this case.
Just my 2 cents
Chris
If you are only using your vechicle at the track I would be inclined to agree that ducting isn't that important. Simply because of the large amount of air that is being shoved into that space.
I only make it to the track two to three times a year. The rest of the time I drive it on the street. Stop and go traffic isn't going to provide the air flow that the track does. I think ducting becomes critical in this case.
Just my 2 cents
Chris
03-17-04, 10:25 AM
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This is mine. You can see not much gap between on the side from the cooler to the bumper.
And here is my stock bumper, you can also see not much space for air to go around, in fact, I need to have bumper like yours which will deliver more air to the cooler. But so far its has been enough. Will see track time data in the summer..
And here is my stock bumper, you can also see not much space for air to go around, in fact, I need to have bumper like yours which will deliver more air to the cooler. But so far its has been enough. Will see track time data in the summer..
03-17-04, 10:39 AM
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Originally posted by manatecu
Rynberg,
If you are only using your vechicle at the track I would be inclined to agree that ducting isn't that important. Simply because of the large amount of air that is being shoved into that space.
I only make it to the track two to three times a year. The rest of the time I drive it on the street. Stop and go traffic isn't going to provide the air flow that the track does. I think ducting becomes critical in this case.
Just my 2 cents
Chris
Rynberg,
If you are only using your vechicle at the track I would be inclined to agree that ducting isn't that important. Simply because of the large amount of air that is being shoved into that space.
I only make it to the track two to three times a year. The rest of the time I drive it on the street. Stop and go traffic isn't going to provide the air flow that the track does. I think ducting becomes critical in this case.
Just my 2 cents
Chris
I don't buy into hype either and I like to see actual numbers for products. So far, the temp data I've seen for the RE setup is very good, on the track or off.
03-17-04, 11:07 AM
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reza
I now understand. Your coolers are so close to the front that your front bumper acts like a duct and forces the air through the cooler. As you can see below with my aftermarket bumper there is a large gap between my coolers and the front, requiring a duct to channel the air.
Last edited by manatecu; 03-17-04 at 11:11 AM.
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