I was removing my turbos to port the wastegate and in the process one bolt snapped in the exhaust manifold. Wasnt to happy but wasnt mad, since I new it could be fixed. I started taking off the exhaust manifold and I get to my last bolt (farthest from the front of the car, and closest to the ground) and it is REALLY hard to take it off. I am starting to get irritated so I keep tighten it then losen it to try to get it off. The bolt finally just freezes in its place. I put liquid wrench on it and decided to use a cheater pipe and take the thing off. I get it off the end of the bolt it totally stripped, so now I got a damn bolt that is stripped in my block. WTF do i do? I tried to use some tool that you put on a socket and it clamps on the bolt and you can back it out, but the bolt is so damn hard to turn. I decide to use the cheater pipe again ( ) and I break my damn 1/2 socket. What do you guys recommend I do? I dont think I can get a drill in there...so...?

 

is anything exposed? If there is still a head on the bolt ... and you can get some tortion on it I suggest doing what you were doing before i.e. back forth back forth, go and get some teflon lube (the stuff that penitrates metal) and soak the treads you can get exposed then turn the bolt so that they re-insert themselves back in the manifold and keep doing it untill the bolt seems to move a little easier and just keep doing it untill you think its loose enough then go buy some craftsman tools and break away eventually it will come out. worse comes to worse call a performance shop that works on 7's frequently and see if they have any ideas...
Good luck!
Ryker

 

try using pb blaster and hit it for a couple of days to let it soak in and then go slowly to going back and forth again, if that fails, you could try to go to sears and get an extractor or something like that. does anyone know of a drill or an adaptor for a drill that can turn a sharp 90 degree turn, try using a dremel with that flexy attachment or a hand held grinder.

good luck

 

You can get or rent a 90 degree drill, but they are harder to drill staight through a bolt. good luck

 

do you have a torch to get it hot? sometimes that helps but I dont know about useing it on aluminum rotor housings

 

Yeah I was thinking heating it up a little. And for that 90 degree angle I believe its called a scew driver. It is a extra bit, that cost close to 40-50 bucks, but will get its uses, Trust me.

 

Okay, so if I understand, you got the nut off and you now have the exhaust manifold off, right?

If so, soak the stud with the penatrating oil overnight. If it is still hard to turn, heat the aluminum around the stud really good, and then try. Do not force it. I recommend using an impact when possible, but I dont think you can use one down there.

If it does mess up the threads in the housing, you will have to have a heli-coil put in. I have never had it done before, but I assume you would have to pull the motor.

Good luck.

Jeff

 

Do not heat it up, metal expands, if you wanna do that heat around the bolt but not the bolt itself at all... Just to be straight is this a "bolt" with a stripped head or a "nut" with a stripped head ?

 

Is there an issue with getting back in there and putting the right force on the bolt?? Think that I know which one you are talking about, very surprised that you didn't strip the threads or pop the top off the bolt already but since it doesn't seem that you have yet, probably not getting force on it evenly.

So question comes down to, you broke your 1/2 inch trying to get it out, are you looking for other options or did you strip the head??

Anyhow, its aluminum, it acts like that at times, especially if someone tigntened it down too hard previously. Put some *** on it and it will break loose. Someone might have put some thread sealant or locktight to keep it in place, that is almost certainly the resistance you are feeling. You just need to keep going and it the sucker pops its head (you should replace these when you re-assemble) so much the better.

If you pop the head, you can take a file, flatten two sides and use a regular wrench to get it the rest of the way out. If you stripped the threads from here to hell there are options to fixing it. Helicore kinda sucks, they don't last too long (heat and cold eventually loosen them up). Not totally recommending this but I have used it to repair lower intake thread issues, radiators. Little tricky but works well, can do it at home with a propane torch, drill and tap. (I don't know this company and isn't the same stuff I used before, just FYI stuff).

Fluxless Aluminum Repair

 

If loctite was used, do heat the bolt and surounding area. Heat loosens up the loctite.

 

When we were taking the nut of the stud it stripped like the last 5 threads. So we were gonna take it out and put a new bolt in it. I will go get a pic right now and show you guys..

 

here is the picture...

 

That same thing happened to three of my downpipe to turbo bolts, when I was pulling the turbos to replace a LIM gasket. I was able to get them out with just vice grips. Put some vice grips on there, heat up the aluminum with a propane torch, and try to loosen it.

By the way, those two exhaust manifold gaskets are like $150.

 

I heated the bolt up and after working with it, it finally came off! Thanks everyone for the help!