So I’m in the process of putting 3 fd’s back together. Mostly focused on engine blocks and engine bays now.

I was about to put a painted water pump housing and new water pump on, and noticed how crusty my m6 bolts are for the pump and M8 nuts are for the housing. So no I’m planning to go through and order a bunch of hardware. The items in the engine bay and on the engine bay are all being blacked out, so I was hoping to find black zinc hardware but looks like all the places that have the right bolt sizes only have yellow and chrome looking zinc plating. So I’ll probably go with yellow.

I’ll start the process of measuring, but if anyone already has a list of hardware and what component they go to, feel free to add. For example, oil pan bolts - m6x1.0, 12mm long, quantity of 22.

Who else has a drawer like this? I’m sure there will be some odd ones that are not readily available, so will just clean those up myself. Depending on pricing, I might send off a bag of these to get cleaned and replated in addition to stocking up on the most common sizes.

 

That’s a good idea, my screws are usually screw back on the spot where they came from, but I do have a huge pile of nuts and bolts on the work bench that need to be organize.

 

✋ yep. Large tackle box and several bins full. I zinc plated stuff diy-style, worked great, but not really worth the effort for the smaller stuff, just the hard-to-find bolts. (Image attached shows my FC hood latch re-plated, with new hardware)

The issue with the engine hardware is the unique shoulders and steps some of the bolts have.

Otherwise, I did get a metric flange-head kit, about 200 or so bolts, but they were the yellow zinc, 10.9, and some of the heads were the wrong size. Worth it to me as several bolts in my FD bay were goofy, multi washer, “quick I need a bolt” mismatched disaster. I prefer flange-head for torque, hold, simplicity.

I have scoured McMaster, eBay, local nut and bolt supply, some are just hard to come by.



This info would be useful too for tap sizes to clean up a lot of the holes on the block- M6x1(pan holes), M8x1.25 (cover and water pump) and M10x1.25 & M10x1.5 (exhaust & Turbo sections) come to mind.

 

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https://belmetric.com

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Yeah. That's the best site I've found so far. A couple others out their too.

 

Good thread guys. FWIW, I'll reply with a shameless plug for our sister company - vaporhone.com
We've done hundreds of pounds of hardware restoration for a few FD owners using vapor honing in combination with zinc plating.

 

so if you look up the part number in the Mazda catalog, the hardware part numbers have the size and type built in.

9978-60-616, for example

9 = hardware, which is all JIS standard.
9786 = the type of hardware, there are TONs of different ones. google is helpful
06 = the diameter, 06 = M6, 08 = M8, etc. its JIS standard, so M6 is a 1.0 with a 10mm head, M8 is 1.25 with a 12mm head, etc
16 = length, or if its a nut, it tells you what the bottom is like, flat, serrated, etc. 16 = 16mm
if there is no letter, its Gold Zinc plated, B = a dark Zinc plating, C is chrome, etc

couple examples, 9079-60-612, it an M6x1.0x12 mm bolt, gold zinc

in theory 9079-60-616 is the same but 16mm long, 9079-60-816 is m8x1.25x16, and 9079-61-025 is m10x1.25x25mm, all the same style. 9079-60-612B would be dark plated, etc

9994-00-602 is a nut, again m6x1.0. 02 is a serrated bottom, which Mazda uses if it is not aluminum.


9994-00-603 is the same but flat bottom, B would be dark plated,
9994-00-601 has no washer,


etc etc

 

First, I love this thread. I found a guy in Chicago that will do small batches of nut & bolt zinc plating, but it is pricy. I’d love to drop off a large amount of my random pieces with him for restoration but it adds up real quick, most of the time it’s cheaper to just buy new hardware.

Here are some photos of when I installed my Banzai Racing transmission brace. All my old hardware was crusty, and I decided to just buy new pieces from McMaster Carr- it was about $30. New from Mazda would’ve been like $60 or so.



old and the new replacements

part numbers from McMaster-Carr

Installed and looking fresh

 

Funny you should post those bolts from under the car. In my trans swaps adventures, I think those are some of the only bolts on the car with what I'm guessing have a thread locking type pattern. Anyone know what that is actually called? If you look closely at those M8 bolts from the underbody cross braces, the threads have flat spots.

 

And this guy certainly has the formula down haha. My attempt will not be even close to this.

 

I restored my suspension and found it almost impossible to find equal to better quality fasteners to OEM. What I did find was really expensive (i.e. Ti fasteners) The original bolts and flange nuts cleaned up really well with a Dremel and when I needed new hardware, I just hit up Ray Crowe.