spook

Hey everyone,

I've been looking around the forum for some time now, trying to find some help on an issue I currently have with removing my toe link. Right, right, I know what you think..."removing the toe link is a brainless job and one of the easier projects for the car." Well unfortunately, I got into an accident and mangled the rear right suspension (both the control and trailing arm look like rainbows, and toe link was snapped in half). I was able to remove the control arm, trailing arm, and half of the toe link without issue (the half that was attached to the axle), but when it came time to remove the other half bolted to the frame, I ran into a rather serious snag.

I got the nut off and began removing the the bolt. However, unlike all the other bolts, this one was fighting back. Just as it seemed like the bolt was loosening up I hit the frame . I took a look at the mounts and it seemed that the one on the left was a little warped. I screwed the bolt back in and tried again, only to fail once more (I actually repeated this for about 10 minutes).





I was able to screw the bolt out until the tip was flush with the right mount (the right circle). As you may be able to tell by all the scratches, I tried to "bend" the left mount back--but did so to no avail. The only other idea I have left is to do something to the frame--exactly what I would do, I don't know.

With the replacement parts coming on Wednesday, I would like to have this off, the others on ASAP. And at this point I am at a complete loss of what to do . Any and ALL suggestions will be welcomed with the vehemency that a hobo would have for a ham sandwich.

Thanks a lot!

Nik

P.S. Please don't mind the cobwebs, the car has been sitting idle for a little while while I was gone to school

apexFD

Hmm, wow. Well the bolt is supposed to go in the other way according to the manual. If you cannot work it out then i would cut it and order a new bolt, that is really all you can do.


I would try unbolting the other side of the tow link and seeing if that helps.



=Ben

dhays

iTrader: (1)

You might try screwing it back in, cut the head off the bolt, and then using a hefty pair of vise grips, pull/screw it through the other direction. IIRC, the holes aren't threaded, they just act like they are.

spook

I took a look at the manual, and am almost certain that the diagram depicts the suspension of the rear left . And as for removing the other toe link, I did so and had no problems.


As for cutting the bolt and getting another one (with regards to both previous posts), I gave that some consideration but ended up realizing that I would be left with trying to coax the new bolt in. So I would be trading one aggravating problem for another, very similar one . Aside from that, I'm pretty sure that there is even less room to play with the bolt on the opposite side.

It's beginning to look like cutting the frame is the only option...However I am unwilling, to say the least, to venture down that path--there must be some other way!

JTurtonRX_7

I did the same thing, i ended up buying a new rear subframe and replacing all the bushings with delrin ones while i was at it. works perfect now.

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

In the accident, did the force of the collision cause the toe link mounting ears to bend? If they're bent even slightly towards the rear of the subframe, that could explain your problem. When I replaced my toe links, I had the same sort of problem except I was able to coax the bolt out with a little persuasion. If those mounting tabs were ANY closer to the subframe, there's no way I could have gotten the thing out.

spook

Hmm... Well in that case, I'll head out later today and continue my siege--hopefully I'll get just as lucky. If worse comes to worse, I guess I can try grinding down the frame, and if and when that fails, I can always get another subframe

With regards to JTurtonRX_7, just how much did you spend on the new subframe and what kind of hellish work did replacing it entail?

In any case, thanks to all who were gracious enough to help and hopefully this doesn't happen to anyone else .

JTurtonRX_7

Picked up a good subframe for 200 bucks. It definitly took some time for the whole R&R Id say when all was done for pulling the sub frame, swapping all the parts, pressing in all the delrin bushings and putting it back in took me 4-5 days working on it for 6-8 hours each of those days.

The hardest part i would have to say was lining up the subframe bolts and also prying the power plant subframe over so i could get the diff bolts lined up

Well worth it, I cut a 1.79 60foot in street tires (yoko avs 100's) with the solid bushings. Lots of work but i would do it all again if i had to.... knock on wood.

96fd3s

id have cut the head off the bolt, and hammered the bit left in the hole out with a hammer and screwdriver..

flunkysama

iTrader: (4)

Cutting the bolt would be a pain because it's hardened. I would try the following things.

1. Put a pry bar between the head of the bolt the seam in the subframe and use some muscle. You may find bending the bolt is easier to do than cutting it .

2. Remove the other end of the toe link and now use the toe link as a pry bar to bend the mount over so you can remove the bolt.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

if and when you do remove the bolt. Personally i would use a plasma torch and be done with it, but most people don't have access to one. Anyway i see no reason why you cant just insert the new bolt the other direction and have the nut on the side thats stuck right now.

Azcamel

iTrader: (1)

is your subframe bent? look like it from the pic, if it is your better off with a new subframe.