hanknmorgan

I see that alot of people run no sequential setups and seem to get more power out of them then running them in stock configuration. As well as being not a complicated of a system. I am considering looking into that option for my car, but I was wondering from those of you who live in CA if you can pass smog with non seq setup. I would think it would not, but I wanted to check from those with experience before potentially wasting my time reading up on all that is involved as well as the pro's and con's of the conversion. Thanks for your time.

FDeez

I'm pretty sure a non-seq mod will still pass smog unless you eliminate the smog solenoids too such as the EGR. As far as I know, a non-sequential conversion does not play with smog equipment. The basics you simply need to keep are catalytic convertor, airpump, and EGR (for visual inspection). Also, you don't get more power out of non-seq. You only simplify the turbo system by eliminating vacuum lines and hence making the car run as parallel turbos. The change is a slightly slower spool up, but a much more simplier turbo system.

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

I agree with the foregoing post. I will only add that the FD is on California's list of cars likely to be modified, and therefore the test-only stations will look at them with more scrutiny than other cars.

A couple of things that I have learned from my own experience with this routine is that the more stock it looks the better. (you can do a lot of mods and still look stock) Secondly, the turbos will not affect the somg test (unless there is an leak affecting the intake mixture). However, in order to get an FD to pass smog, you will need a functional main converter and air pump. It will not pass the sniffer test without the main cat. And that assumes that the engine is running properly (and not misfiring); i.e., injection, ignition, plugs, etc.. must be okay. The EGR does not have to work to pass but it must be present if so equipped. Keep in mind that disconnecting certain solinoids that the ECU expects to see will cause "check engine" error codes to be displayed under some circumstances. If you are discreet about what you do, you should be ok. Hope this helps.

akiratdk

Man... my car won't pass smog for shitz.... I pay 200-250 every two years to get it done non legit.... but I'm still happy with my car~~~~

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Carb-legal? I would venture to say that 99% of the FDs on this board making 350 rwhp or more will not pass smog as is

hanknmorgan

It depends on the setup. I have talked to a local rotary performance shop and he says he gets about 350 RWHP and has customers pass smog all the time. Light street port, stock twins, PFC, catback, etc. That would be pretty impressive for sure. I would like to go that rougte someday possibly. For now I just need to learn the car and to drive it well. We are still getting acquainted and yesterdays rain was quite a new experience as well with a rear wheel drive turbo car. I was under the impression that running parrallel twims made more power at the same boost pressure, but I havent looked into much at all. If it's just for simplicity I will most likely leave the turbo's fully stock as it is an around down daily driver and I want as quick of a spool up as possible as apposed to high speed, high RPM power. Thanks for the input guys.

rynberg

If you want to remain smog legal, going non-seq is a poor idea, especially given your desire for quick spool. Non-seq is pretty laggy without a full open exhaust.

Drive smart in the rain. This car is not the handful in the rain some claim it to be, but you have to be smart and have decent tires.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

That setup does not sound too aggressive. You would have to really push the stock twins to their limit boostwise to make that kinda power. I'm sure it is possible, but not really feasible long term with regards to a safety envelope and longevity.

hanknmorgan

I think I would like about 300 to the RW's out of mine someday. I think it's a blast now, but a little more kick to dust off a few faster cars would nice I think. I have never taken my car to the track, but I would like it to at least be low 13's or 12's. Not sure if 300rwhp will get me there or not.

Also, I definately do need new tires. They are in the lower portion of tread life and were a bit easy to spin on wet pavement. Enough to where I would worry if my wife wanted to drive it one day when it rained.