NON SEQ. (How To)
Passenger
Posts: n/a
NON SEQ. (How To)
Well after receiving over 50 p.m.'s in the past 2 days! I really appreciate all the kind words that everyone has said thanx...
I have been giving it some thought and I am going to do a How To for the Non Seq. set up on my web site. If you dont know about the site you can visit it at www.dontbearikki.com I will be take'n pics of everything I did and making some nice directions to go with it aswell. this way I wont **** anyone off. if I have yet to get back with you I am sorry just been busy at work and home(gotta keep the old lady happy!). If you want to do this job anysooner than this weekend please p.m. with the title urgent so I know you need it sooner, but if not I will have the How To up by friday evening... here are a few tips before I put it up things you will need...
1.) 1-metal coat hanger
2.) 1-metal T (do not use plastic it will get brittle over time)
3.) 6-8 pills ( i went to the help section and got little water pump studs works great for sticking inside of the vacuum hose)
4.) bunch-vacuum caps(this is optional I dont like the caps IMO)
5.) 6pack-if you are like me I like a cold beverage to go with work
6.) 2-big sized bolts to plug the two vaccum lines that come off the TCA
cliff notes: you will spend about 5-10 minutes under the car taking out the TCA and plugging the lines and of coures use'n the coat hanger to wire the door open(reuse the metal c-clip that comes off so that the coat hanger does not pop off!) leave the TCA bracket in place remove only the TCA Important or you have nothing to wire the door open with.
now up top you will need to remove the long rubber pipe to the secondary turbo and the vaccum chamber(pull out of the way do not unplug) behind that chamber are 2 solenoids wastegate control and turbo pre control (I think that is the name) anyhow the one on the right has 2 nipples coming off put a pill in each hose your done over there....
now to the turbo side from the primary releif and secondary releif valves(BOV&CRV) 2 brown round valves they get spilced together with the METAL T. the line that came from the CRV gets cut in 1/2. the rest of the line just hang'n there with no home gets a pill. Now this is the hardest part of the whole job(not really hard just need small hands) the valve that is inbetween the 2 turbos that has 2 lines come out of it (cant remember its name) unplug the 2 lines and plug them with pills.
this is all I can remember untill I take a look under the hood again but I am sure that that is the bulk of it I may have missed a line (dont think I did but it could be a chance I dont want anyone to make until I check!!!)
thanx for your patience and I will get pics on the site along with the write up aswell
Regards
- Rikki
Ryan
I have been giving it some thought and I am going to do a How To for the Non Seq. set up on my web site. If you dont know about the site you can visit it at www.dontbearikki.com I will be take'n pics of everything I did and making some nice directions to go with it aswell. this way I wont **** anyone off. if I have yet to get back with you I am sorry just been busy at work and home(gotta keep the old lady happy!). If you want to do this job anysooner than this weekend please p.m. with the title urgent so I know you need it sooner, but if not I will have the How To up by friday evening... here are a few tips before I put it up things you will need...
1.) 1-metal coat hanger
2.) 1-metal T (do not use plastic it will get brittle over time)
3.) 6-8 pills ( i went to the help section and got little water pump studs works great for sticking inside of the vacuum hose)
4.) bunch-vacuum caps(this is optional I dont like the caps IMO)
5.) 6pack-if you are like me I like a cold beverage to go with work
6.) 2-big sized bolts to plug the two vaccum lines that come off the TCA
cliff notes: you will spend about 5-10 minutes under the car taking out the TCA and plugging the lines and of coures use'n the coat hanger to wire the door open(reuse the metal c-clip that comes off so that the coat hanger does not pop off!) leave the TCA bracket in place remove only the TCA Important or you have nothing to wire the door open with.
now up top you will need to remove the long rubber pipe to the secondary turbo and the vaccum chamber(pull out of the way do not unplug) behind that chamber are 2 solenoids wastegate control and turbo pre control (I think that is the name) anyhow the one on the right has 2 nipples coming off put a pill in each hose your done over there....
now to the turbo side from the primary releif and secondary releif valves(BOV&CRV) 2 brown round valves they get spilced together with the METAL T. the line that came from the CRV gets cut in 1/2. the rest of the line just hang'n there with no home gets a pill. Now this is the hardest part of the whole job(not really hard just need small hands) the valve that is inbetween the 2 turbos that has 2 lines come out of it (cant remember its name) unplug the 2 lines and plug them with pills.
this is all I can remember untill I take a look under the hood again but I am sure that that is the bulk of it I may have missed a line (dont think I did but it could be a chance I dont want anyone to make until I check!!!)
thanx for your patience and I will get pics on the site along with the write up aswell
Regards
- Rikki
Ryan
Recovering Milkaholic
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,206
Likes: 0
From: Budds Creek, Maryland
Originally posted by neevosh
There's a how-to in the archive already.
There's a how-to in the archive already.
Trending Topics
thats not paint....
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 2
From: Manassas, VA
I want to add for anyone with the Power FC. You are suppost to switch your lines going to the wastegate solenoid (the one on the right) to the precontrol solenoid (one of the left) for boost control. Also in the PFC turn the sequential setting off.
Ryan, any luck tuning the PMS? I know you can have a lot less lag since I get full boost at 3700rpms.
Ryan, any luck tuning the PMS? I know you can have a lot less lag since I get full boost at 3700rpms.
Last edited by 7-sins; May 22, 2002 at 12:48 AM.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
But my props are to 7-SINS he is the first one to do it and he got me hooked. and being such a good freind he drove from no.va down to my step-dads garage about 78 miles and helped me out alot so Kudos to chris and I will have it ready to go soon Thanx, everyone for the comps....
-Ryan
-Ryan
thats not paint....
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 2
From: Manassas, VA
Thats good, you should be able to get it around that range. I bet the streetport pumps out some more exhaust flow. I think the PMS computer still uses the wastegate solenoid for boost control.
Full Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Bay Florida
I was able to lock the TCA open with a piece of alumimun metal 1/2x3inch and a screw bolting it to the heat shield. Then i used a spring i go at the junk yard to control the WG at 10psi constant. Works great for me.
thats not paint....
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 2
From: Manassas, VA
Originally posted by Rotarius
I was able to lock the TCA open with a piece of alumimun metal 1/2x3inch and a screw bolting it to the heat shield.
I was able to lock the TCA open with a piece of alumimun metal 1/2x3inch and a screw bolting it to the heat shield.
Full Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Bay Florida
Originally posted by gzon
what is the advanteges in going non-seq? and what is the disadvanteges? How will the car feel compare to seq?
what is the advanteges in going non-seq? and what is the disadvanteges? How will the car feel compare to seq?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ls1swap
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
17
Jun 3, 2024 03:25 PM
LetsGO7
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
3
Oct 19, 2004 09:34 PM
smg944
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
1
Oct 12, 2004 09:31 PM
Dont_Be_A_Rikki
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
33
May 21, 2002 05:21 PM