Stopped to check the tire pressure on the way to a Car Show this afternoon. Car had been starting and running ok. Turn the key and Nothing! No turnover, no clicks.


Went and got a new battery, put it in and same thing.


Called AAA to tow it to a shop which was closed by the time we got there.


I'm thinking starter solenoid or even starter. Seems like when the clutch switch was the culprit, the engine would still turn over just not start.


Thoughts??


Thanks, as always for any help.

 

After you've replaced the battery, have you locked and then unlocked the car using the drivers door keyhole? This resets the security system. Maybe your immobilizer relay is keeping it from starting.
Did the battery die while you were checking the tire pressure?
Or did it test bad? (Why did you replace it?)

The clutch switch keeps the starter from engaging, engine will not crank.

 

Thanks.


I did the lock/unlock thing -- no change.
Tried the new battery just because it was an easy thing to try and I can return the battery.


The tow truck driver did try and "bang" on the starter -- we got it to turn over briefly, but not enough to start. Banging again didn't work.


Have had clutch swith problems before, pretty sure the switch is newish (at least one).


Thanks again, couldn't remember about the clutch switch and engine turnover.

 

check the small wire to the starter with a voltmeter, see if it's getting close to 12v with the key to crank.

 

Excellent.
The easiest thing to do right off the bat, is to check for 12v at the starter signal connector (smaller "spade" connector) when the key is turned to start the engine.
If you have 12v there when trying to start, then the solenoid has bit the dust.
Or
Clean the terminal and connector good and try again, maybe corroded or loose connection also.

 

Thanks.


Forgot to mention that all accessories work -- windows etc.


Left it at the shop overnight, I'll check what I can before they start charging $.

 

Should have tried push starting the car, would have eliminated/identified a stater issue.

 

Were there broken looking pieces on the floor mat? I'm gonna shoot from the hip and say your button that pushes the clutch switch.

 

if it cranked once with the hammer method, i'd have to guess strongly against the clutch switch.

 

Thanks, the shop is going to check the starter today.
I did at least check that the clutch switch was springing all the way out, it was.
I remember when it went bad before, it only sprang out part way.


I see that NAPA sells a New starter or at least one made with new parts for $282.

 

Banzai sells an upgraded starter:

High Torque 2KW Starter (93+ RX-7)

 

Thanks!
Banzai makes Great stuff.

 

Jumper that Blue plug (security interlock switch?) by the drivers dead pedal. I was dealing with a no start issue one day as well. free check/fix if you have some wire/ spade connectors lying around.





jumper the two large guage wires.

 

Thanks.
I had previously done the jump on the security system.


So, the shop called and they say the car starts every time they try????


I guess the starter could have a dead spot and MAYBE each time I tried to start it, it might have moved a bit until finally it got past the dead spot.


Thoughts?

 

It's a never ending battle as our connections degenerate.
I bypassed all the OE anti theft features and ran a 12ga wire from the cranking terminal in the drivers foot well - through the firewall - over the bell housing - directly onto the solenoid signal lead. I don't drive it much, but have not had another problem with it since.

 

possibilities:
bad starter motor brushes(worn and sticking in, hammer test usually proves this)
bad starter solenoid(this supplies voltage to the motor, like a relay it can have dirty contacts or sticky plunger)
bad vehicle wiring/relays(i made a booster to bypass this issue, as long as the small wire to the starter gets 12v it takes the load off the crank circuit wiring which causes the relays to fail)

 

It might be the clutch actuator switch...there is a plastic part that breaks, the pressure switch is to make sure the clutch is in when starting. The fix costs a penny...that u tape over the hole on the clutch. Oops missed that u checked that...

 

and you don't need a whole new starter..you can change the brushes for literally a couple of $. Its easy as.

 

If I were to get stuck again, could I turn the engine by hand (ratchet on front pulley) to "move" the starter teeth along?


Just thinking, might never happen again, but then again. . .

 

nope, you need to "re seat" the brushes inside the starter motor. Best thing to do is to give the starter a couple of light wacks with a small hammer or wrench or something.

If you turn the engine, the flywheel will not be making contact with the starter motor.
The end of the starter motor flies out/forwards to contact the teeth on the flywheel during cranking.

If it goes after a few taps, you know it the brushes that need replacing. You can get a new starter for $250 or whatever, or you can get some brushes from any parts store for $2 and make it good as new.

edit; if you decide that its a waste of money buying a whole new starter instead of replacing a wear item in it (they are like brake pads..), all you need to do remove the starter motor, then remove the back of it....
You will see something similar to this (not an RX7 starter but for all purposes they are the same, work the same, and look very very similar.)

So basically the brushes wear down and no longer provide good contact with the armature (the bit I said to clean)


The brush holder comes out and looks something like this


so basically all you need to do remove the back off the starter motor, clean the armature with some steel wool or similar (basically very lightly sand it with steel wool or fine grit sand paper, e.g. 2000g to make it nice and shiny copper looking)
Then replace the brushes with new ones...the brushes get pushed out under spring pressure to make contact/seat correctly on the armature. They wear down over time causing inconsistent starting as the brushes begin to no longer make good contact with the armature. The brushes are made from a soft carbon type material..similar to pencil led...
Thats why tapping the starter motor can sometimes make it go again, as it can cause the brushes to move a bit and make better contact with the armature.

You can buy "universal" brushes from any parts store for literally a couple of dollars (or you can get them from mazda for about $5) and sand them down to the correct size. As mentioned they are very soft..think chunk of pencil led.

It annoys me when people always say to run out and buy a whole new starter motor when the brushes go...do you go and buy a whole new brake caliper, brake rotor, wheel, wheel nuts, and tyre when your brake pads go?? no you just change the brake pads..

 

you don't know many FD owners very well. lol

 

lol, another one of my pet peeves is wiring harness extensions

 

I drove a chevy van back in the day and the starter was going out on it. Sometimes it would crank sometimes it wouldnt. Someone showed me the hammer trick like mentioned above. Also If you get in a tight you can roll the car. Put in neutral release emerg brake and roll it around fowards or backwards or both. I never woulda believed it but it worked. It beat getting under it with a hammer and i know you cant get under the fd without it being a pita. I never tried it on a big hill, just when it was on flat ground.

 

Didn't read the thread, but had a similar issue earlier in the year
Turned out that I ran over a cone at an autocross and it pulled the signal wire off the starter
Easiest fix ever lol

 

Haha I did the exact same thing a few years back thought it was funny that a little spade connector is one of the lowest points on the bottom of our cars!